Dodge Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hello and thank you for your question,Which engine are you working on?
Normal fuel pressure on your 3.8 should be right at 53 to 63 PSI so you should be fine at 60. Are you getting a check engine light and if so are there any fault codes setting?
only code p0032 heated o2 sensor heater control circuit high b1 s1
Well since we know there is a problem with the HO2S sensor then that is what I would try to deal with first. I have enclosed the steps in the link below to check the sensor and the circuit. Copy and paste the link to your browser to open and view it. Let start there first.https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104923897/P0032%20Feb%202.pdf
I haven't seen a heater circuit cause excessive fuel thought this is only for warm up
I have seen it causing a flooding condition if the circuit is shorted to ground. I would at least have a look.
ok I will check it out
One other thing, make sure when you replaced the PCM that it had the latest software installed.
I'm just getting into vehicle somebody else changed ecm when it didn't work put old ecm back in. that is what I am working with.
Okay then let check what we know is a problem and that would be the HO2S and its circuit.
for the 32 dollars we are just going to change then if code returns we will go further in if it is short to ground should be hard code and return immediately. at least in theory
Okay while your changing it make sure to have a look at the harness to it to make sure its not shorting out on anything.
already did that wires look good
Okay then hopefully replacing it will clear the code. Let me know.
I sure will
Okay, Im here all day.
do you know anything about kia transfer case other person that I am dealing with must not be online
Unfortunately no I do not.
You can always open a new post and see if you can connect with a Kia tech.
ok code clear did not come back still pounding fuel will not idle will run ok at mid throttle will be getting at injectors I will let you know what I find. tps and o2 sensors seem to be ok. thought maybe map sensor. how can I check map sensor before I pull upper plenum
checked injector ohm all checked good ran noid lights all seem to be working correctly, plugged injectors in seem to work like there are suppose to what next
I do not think this is an injector issues but perhaps a injector control issue. Are you 100% sure the PCM is not at fault here?
not 100% sure they said they replaced pcm. and still did same thing. it has to be something that effects all cyl. what about evap system. I was thinking leaking pressure reg but this one is built into tank. also weird #1 cyl intake runner before injector is clean as can be. does this tell you anything
The injector and the pulse width are controlled by the ground switching signal from the PCM, it sure not likely all the injector are leaking especial if it holds furl pressure. Im most cases if there is a problem with the EVAP system there will be a fault code.
we cranked it over with injectors removed from intake spray seemed normal all sprayed the same. why I mention evap is seems like it is getting extra gas from somewhere other than injectors. shooting for the stars at this point. I am gonna put it back together then plug evap vacuum line from throttle body and see if that does anything
There really is no place for the EVAP to feed fuel into the engine. It only suppose to control vapor.
that I know and I don't know how gas could get into evap system as I said shooting for the stars what do you think about the clean intake runner. all others have the dark greasy look this one is clean as new
About the only way it could is if some how it was sucking it out of the tank. What happens if you disconnect the line from the canister?
that is what I am going to do after I reassemble ill let you know
That would sure answer it. Let me know. Im going to be here for a while yet today and all day tomorrow.
ok that did not work the only thing I see is tps reads 18% at idle and only goes to 78% full throttle. also map sensor reading ok but how can I test it
What are you wanting to test the TP or the MAP?
Just map sensor I know how to test tps on tps was wondering if those numbers are ok I'll test it off vehicle if these numbers are wrong
Testing the MAP is fairly easy to do, see the steps in the link below.https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104923897/Map%20Feb%203.pdf
ok voltage at power is 4.85 power at signal wire is 3.65 with vehicle not running car does not idle do these numbers tell you anything I will try to get vehicle to run just don't want to damage cats any further
the 4.8 looks ok but the 3.6 is high but you need to check it with the engine running so if you can get running long enough see what you get
also with plugin unplugged signal wire reads .01 volts info you sent me says should be 5volts I will get vehicle running and let you know what other reading I get
The voltage needs right at 5 volts with it unplugged.
Your reading should be right at the voltages readings I sent you.
Recheck them and see what you get
Take a look at the connector view in the link below to make sure you checking the right wires.https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104923897/Map%20connector%20Feb%203.pdf
yes I am checking it right trying to warm up now but with engine at 1800 rpm to keep it running we get 2.65 to 2.9 volts also just got a crank sensor code that wasn't there before so I need to check that it was changed at least that is what they said. would explain a lot. just strange that all tasting no crank code came up till now ill let you know what I find
Yea I would sure check the CKP code. It is very rare for a MAP to fail with out setting a fault code.
crank sensor is new doesnt mean its any good. I did notice when running tack would all of a sudden drop 500rpm when code reader only noticed a little drop could this be indicator
The tack signal should be holding steady.
I figured it should at least be close to code reader numbers so does that point to the ckp
If its jumping then yes that would likely mean there is a problem with it and or the circuit to it from the PCM providing the tack is okay as well.
boy ill owe you a big bonus if we can get this figured sorry to ask all this but this car is kinda kicking my butt
Yea I can tell, this is one of those time I wish I could be there to give you some hands on help
so I thought I had something pulled cpk ohms different then new one. still didn't fix it.any last thoughts before I give up
Some thing has to be causing the PCM to over fuel the engine and because its not setting any fault codes leads to to think the problem is with the PCM. Unfortunately I can not tell you that for sure. The part that dose not make since is your not getting any fault codes to set.
yea I know usually come up with several codes. also when I hook up my reader all functions seem to be working. I am going to be looking at one more thing, that clean intake runner. I wonder if when original crank sensor went out if it didn't back fire and brake the plastic intake hard to run vacuum leak check when vehicle wont idle do you think this might be possibilty
I think its a bit of a stretch but worth looking into. At least by removing it you would be resealing the intake if in fact it dose have a leaking intake.