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Dodgerench
Dodgerench, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 3385
Experience:  30+ years Dodge/Chrysler exp., ASE Master with L1 certification. Driveability/ combustion specialist
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My 2014 caravan will not crank

Customer Question

My 2014 caravan will not crank
Submitted: 11 months ago.
Category: Dodge
Expert:  Jack replied 11 months ago.

Hello and thank you for using JustAnswer. My name is ***** ***** I would be happy to assist you. I will do my best to give you sound advise basic off the information that YOU provide. Is this a Key fob start or a push button? when you attempt to start the van is there a audible "click"?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
It is key fob no audible click.
Expert:  Jack replied 11 months ago.

I have seen numerous ground issues on these vehicles, If you can take a set of jumper cables and clamp onto the ground terminal on the battery, then take the other end and clamp it to the engine block. like on a bolt or stud on the engine. then attempt to start. let me know if it starts or not.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
No difference. FYI everything else in the van works (lights,radio,fuel pump orime,etc)
Expert:  Jack replied 11 months ago.

I would have you check your fuses, and also when you turn to key on to the run postion is the PRNDL all lit up the same color? If they are I would suspect a fault with the transmission range sensor. If not then i would look to the starter inspect the connections to the starter. And as a precaution i would also check all the ground connections under the hood that you can see make sure they are all tight.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Prndl were not lit up in the same color. The colors change as I move the shifter through the gears. I have cleaned and tightened all grounds I could find under the hood. Also I have no power on the small wire for starter solenoid. I also switched starter relays with no difference. If I jump the relay 30 to 87 it will crank.
Expert:  Jack replied 11 months ago.

That small wire will only engerized (battery voltage when the key is turned to the start position. The big wire is hot all the time. If your able to jump the circuit from the TIPM to the starter then the issue is the circuit between the WCM module to the TIPM. Turn the key to the run position and jump the relay.. does the engine start?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
It cranks good but will not start.
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 11 months ago.

Goood afternoon, this is Ed.

I believe the model you have supports a customer code-read function, which could be quite useful.

Try rolling the key from off to on three times rapidly, then watching the instrument cluster for code display. Codes will come in 4 decimals, such as P0123 or U0123

Talk shortly,

Ed

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I will check in the morning buy the scan tool I borrowed from a friend said no stored codes
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 11 months ago.

Rrrrrrrreally...

That's disappointing! I'd expect a no-start event like this to have some explanation.

Do you have a second... third or fourth key to try?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I have 2 keys that both result in the same issue. I will check for codes again in the morning.
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 11 months ago.

Great info! Security will not allow a failed key to start the van, so if you've got two known good keys that suddenly refuse to work, it strongly suggests we're looking outside of the key category. Scan tool information is critically involved in no-start problems and I'll do the best I can to work around that for now.

Talk tomorrow and thanks for your patience,

Ed

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I tried the key trick and I get ------------ for about 10 to 15 seconds then it says done.
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 11 months ago.

Well, "done" means done in this case -- no codes.

Do the keys work for remote keyless entry? Lock-unlock functions?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Both fobs will lock unlock and open power sliders. I did happen to notice the steering wheel will not lock not sure of the significance of that.
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 11 months ago.

Thanks. That shows that the receiver in your van recognizes the remote keyless feature, which is programmed together with the immobilizer. The immobilizer, however, uses a different technology that reads the RFID chip in your keys, but only once the key is inserted into the dash. It appears... and I have to say appears because we're not able to get scan tool information... that the receiver (called the WIN module) isn't able to read your key information. But I'm conflicted on this because a P0513 trouble code should be set if a perceived invalid key is being used, as would be the case if the WIN couldn't recognize your keys.

Still, this seems to be the best information I can give. One last hope chance for getting the van started would be to disconnect your battery and give it a few minutes to drain off all capacitive charge. Then reconnect and if effective, your WIN might once again recognize key RFID signals and allow engine start. That would suggest that the WIN is susceptible to electronic lockup and should be replaced, but that would be your call-- it might never happen again.

Give it a try and let me know what happens. Touching your battery cable ends together improves capacitive discharge if you don't mind the extra work. Only one cable has to be removed or you can do both (same-same).

Ed

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Disconnected the battery overnight with no difference. But I had my daughter turn the key to the crank position as I jumped the starter relay and it fires right up.
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 11 months ago.

Once again, that's great information and a fantastic piece of diagnostics on your part!

That strongly implies that the WIN is either physically limited in travel -- can't turn to the START position -- or it's just plain got internal issues. Either way, a new WIN should get you back on the road and at least with that great piece of insight you won't have to have it towed.

The WIN will have to be programmed first to the van once replaced, then all keys have to be reintroduced. THEN there's the tire pressure stuff, so it will need to see someone with the proper scan tool capability, even if it's not the dealer. For reasons not known, some existing keys may NOT program again, leaving you with dead keys that need to be replaced. It happens.

It appears that the reason you never set a code is because no breach of security ever happened. The WIN simply cannot or will not supply a START signal but would be happy to do so if given the chance. As far as the van knows, you're just sitting there listening to Led Zeppelin or something with the key on. It doesn't realize you want to go for a ride.

A new WIN is the fix.

Thanks for all your help,

Ed

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Is there any way to check for output voltage from the win unit?
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 11 months ago.

Let me take a look at the wiring and see. Most of my experience with WIN diagnosis is in conjunction with our scan tool, so I don't often probe wiring on these modules. That, plus they're an absolute bear to touch. the 2014 WIN is a nightmare to reach.

Expert:  Dodgerench replied 11 months ago.

You have only one output voltage source (the F20 circuit) which runs to the underhood fuse and relay panel you've been working with (we call it TIPM). Its job is mostly for accessory wake-up and it's not clear whether it's even used in engine starting. Other information outputs include the CAN C communication bus, which is how the WIN communicates with other modules. It operates on a 500K baud, making a voltmeter pretty worthless other than to test carrier voltage. If the CAN C were to be shorted out, you wouldn't get anything to work at all.

One power source feeds the WIN, coming from Fuse M27 (10 amp) in the TIPM. If you have anything light up with the key, it suggests this feed is reaching the WIN, but it wouldn't hurt to check anyway.