Oooo... The headlight, power door locks (?) and wiper delay are consistent with a CTM problem, but I don't think your signals will be affected. We use a "combo flasher" for signal operation and they do often have hissy fits like that. Windows aren't run through the CTM, either, so maybe part of your problem lies with an ignition switch feed.
Power windows use a feed from a circuit breaker located at location 28 in the left-of-dash Junction Block. You can maybe identify it better by using the under-cover road map printed into the cover cap for the dash, but the circuit breaker will appear different from the normal fuses. You should show power to both sides of the breaker with the key on (it's hard to test the breaker, maybe requiring a small wire be pressed into the spade terminals for exposing the circuit). Lack of power to the breaker means you've lost power from the switch or to the switch, which begins at Fuse 17 in the underhood fuse an relay panel (what we call the PDC). It's a 50 amp glass-topped fuse for reference. Although Dakotas aren't known for window wiring problems, all door wiring in the flex area between the body and door body is subject to stress breakage over time, so you may have some issues in that area.
You might be able to settle a CTM issue by disconnecting it briefly. A short reboot can restore many functions of a CTM, giving you an easy diagnostic tool to tell if it's got issues without scanning. If you don't already know, your CTM lives behind the kick panel to the left of the park brake pedal. Remove the panel, disconnect all three connectors on the 6"x6" black plastic box and reconnect. If you recover any of the functions you've mentioned, it positively shows the CTM to be defective.
Headlamps require a high and low beam driver to operate, both of which are provided by the CTM. If you have neither high nor low beam operation on the left headlamp, you may be lacking the ground circuit, which is shared between the two circuits. Check to see if you have power on any of the outer terminals of the headlamp connector with the lights turned on, then switch between high and low. If the ground is bad, you'll also have power on the center terminal, which is your ground and is often "chewed" by critters in the battery area inside the fender panel. You may also be lacking ground to park lamps or intermittently to signal circuits which may explain your buzzing problem (not likely --- sounds more like a bad combo flasher).