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sprinkles08
sprinkles08, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep master tech
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 21594
Experience:  ASE Master and Advanced Certified, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep Master Certified, Trans and Hybrid Specialist
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Bill. I have a 2002 Intrepid and I have started having HVAC

Customer Question

Hi, Bill. I have a 2002 Intrepid and I have started having HVAC issues. It seems that none of the duct doors are working - always blows HOT (even when compressor it on) and always blows out of the defrost vents, never the mid-level vents, even when the ATC is showing that it should be otherwise. I looked in my service manual and noticed that there is a Common Door Driver coming from the BCM (C1-10). Since I suddenly am having an issue with all of the doors (or atleast 2), I am suspecting that the issue is with this common line. The wiring diagram shows the common line to each of the actuators notated with an S211. I am guessing that this is a wiring Splice and that this MIGHT be where the issue is. How do I know where this S211 Splice in physically located?
Thanks!
Joe Ray
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Dodge
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 1 year ago.

Hello and welcome to JustAnswer!

S211 is indeed a splice and is in the harness near the takeout for the blend door actuator, but I would expect an actuator or BCM issue over an open splice.

Has a calibration been done, and did the doors sweep during that time?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
A calibration has not been done yet, as I don't have a DRB device. I was only suspecting a possible wiring issue because is seems that more than one of the actuators is not working. And, I recently had the whole dash out of the vehicle and the HVAC unit taken apart to change the evaporator. So, there is a possibility that the wiring was damaged during that process. However, everything did work for a couple of weeks before this issue cropped up. How much is it for a dealer to run the calibration? Any other suggestions for where/how I might be able to run the calibration myself?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 1 year ago.

Remove the IOD fuse from the fuse box in the dash for a few seconds and reinstall it. Turn the key on, turn the blower motor on and the doors should sweep. After about a minute you should regain control if the calibration worked. Try this and let me know what you find.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thx. I will try this tonight.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 1 year ago.

You're welcome!

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK, lots of information here.
1) I don't know that I ever got the ATC system to go thru a calibration. I tried 7 or 8 times by pulling the IOD fuse (#19, M1) and there was one time that I THOUGHT that it was doing the calibration, but then I pushed a button and it changed the operation. I also tried using another technique I found in the Service Manual (turn temp to full cold for 2 minutes and full hot for 5 minutes), but that didn't seem to do it, either. So, any other hints about getting the system to go thru the calibration?
2) Here is a run-down of how things are working right now:
a) The recirculation door IS working. I can turn it on and off and hear/feel the difference in the air output;
b) No matter what setting I put the system on, the air is always coming out primarily thru the defrost vents. The floor level vents have just a little bit blowing out and the mid-level has ZERO air coming from it.
c) The blower motor does respond to manual and auto control, blowing harder and softer at the appropriate times.
d) Previously, the air coming out was ALWAYS HOT (as stated in my original right up), but for the last couple of days it has always been cold air.
e) The temperature in my garage was about 65F, but the overhead console was showing the outside temp as 91F. I thought that this may have been contributing to the issues (if the ATC was using the same temp input), but with the system on Auto, the fan would blow hard when the ATC temp was set to LO, blow softly when the ATC temp was set to the mid-60s, and then increase as the ATC temp was raised. From this, it seems to me that the system is correctly detecting the ambient temperature and trying to work correctly.
f) All of the displays and controls on the ATC seem to be function normally, it is just a matter of the air not being directed correctly thru the system, whether it is thru the heater core, or to the appropriate vents. To me, that still sounds like 2 doors not operating correctly, with 1 (recirc) operating correctly. It seems unlikely that 2 of the actuator would have failed at the same time, which is why I was trying to find some common link.
Thoughts?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 1 year ago.

Have you tested continuity on any of the actuator driver circuits?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK, I kept looking around the Service Manual and found another way to get it into a diagnostic mode where it performs the calibration - by pushing the "floor", "defrost", and "floor-defrost" buttons simultaneously. This also allowed you to see DTCs afterwards.
The first and second times I ran it, it gave me a DTC of "24", Mode Door Actuator Feedback Failure. I thought this made sense, since the system was unable to direct the air out of the middle vents.
The third time I ran it, it gave me a DTC of "23", Blend Door Actuator Feedback Failure. During this calibration test, I actually felt air blowing from the middle vents (for the first time in a while). At this point, the air changed back to always blowing hot.
The fourth and fifth times that I ran it, I also got the DTC of "23", but now I was still feeling air coming from the middle vents AND feeling the air changing between hot and cold. It seemed that everything was working now, although I was still getting the "23" code.
At this point, I just went back to normal operation and found that EVERYTHING seemed to be working properly now. I even turned the vehicle off and back on and it still worked properly. So, it seems that things are OK for now, although I am not sure why I am still getting the "23" code.
NOTE: The Service Manual says that the ATC can only display one DTC at a time and to see additional codes, you must push the "panel" button. It didn't clearly indicate which one that was the "panel" button, but I tried the button that called for air to blow from the mid-level vents and it never showed a 2nd code as being set (but, not positive that was the correct "panel" button.
Anyway, it seems ok for now.
Thoughts?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 1 year ago.

If the blend door is moving and temperature is changing then the 23 should be stored and not active. You could clear it with a scan tool and a battery disconnect would do it also, but if it's working correctly now then I would hesitate to disconnect the battery.