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Dodgerench
Dodgerench, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 3395
Experience:  30+ years Dodge/Chrysler exp., ASE Master with L1 certification. Driveability/ combustion specialist
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Dodge durango: tim. I have a 2006 4.7L Dodge Durango

Customer Question

Hi tim.
I have a 2006 4.7L Dodge Durango that was not starting.
Background:
I checked the pressure test valve and it wasn't getting fuel. I dropped the tank and installed a new pump and it started right up. drove it around started and stopped 10 times no issues. next day it wouldn't start. came home from work started right up. next day filled it with gas wouldn't start no hum from the fuel pump. came back 4hrs later started up drove home and wouldn't start again. no hum from fuel pump.
What I have tried:
2nd new fuel pump- same issue not humming.
new relay- no change.
new fuel harness connector- no issue.
ground wire- no change.
I tested the wires inside the fuel pump and all are getting electricity.
at this point I am at a complete loss for what to do next...
Also as part of this project I pulled the starter and tested it and replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor and those were not the issue. also looked at every circuit in the box and all are fine. No applicable codes are coming up either.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Dodge
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 1 year ago.
Hi, my name is***** to JustAnswer!. Check for terminal damage in a 16-way connector located about two feed to the rear of your left front wheel, affixed to the top of the frame rail. This connector transfers both power and ground from the front end of the truck to the back and yes... I fell for this myself. The terminals in that connector seem undersized for the amount of current they have to supply to the fuel pump, but it hasn't turned into the sort of problem I expect with every HB-model Durango that rolls in without fuel pressure, but having seen both a power and a ground overheated at Connector C352, it does rate a check. I like to jumper the fuel pump relay terminals (30 to 87) in the Power Distribution Center to supply power continuously on the circuit while probing it out. Your pump power feed is colored dark blue/ orange and the ground will be simply black, with both wires sized at 18 gauge. Although you may find power present at the pump if powered up and tested with the connector apart at the pump, you're likely to see a significant voltage drop with everything connected. I also see a stop that the pump feed circuit makes as it leaves the fuel pump relay and PDC which I didn't realize was there. For reasons not shown, but pump feed arrives at the Intelligent Power Module (the fuse block forward of the PDC), apparently circles and jumps right back out again. The diagram shows a takeout within the IPM, but has no explanation of what its purpose is, but the addition of two more opportunities for a terminal issue does seem to be there. Be sure to check the forward side of the C352 connector if you find the rear side to be lacking, just in case that (apparently) meaningless loop it takes at the IPM C1 connector has become a problem. Wire color and size remains constant through the circuit. So, check out that C352 connector and let me know if we need to dig deeper. I can't be sure at this point whether you're losing spark or PCM consciousness at the same time, but we'll burn that bridge when we come to it.Good luck!Ed
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
that is a lot of checking, couple comments before i get checking. i am getting electric for all wires in the fuel pump itself. does that rule out any of these possible issues?
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 1 year ago.
Hi.My concern is that you may not have a circuit load present when you checked for power on the blue/ orange wire at the pump. If the connector was disconnected at the time, even the slightest bit of conductivity on the circuit would likely land you 12 volts, but it might not hold up if it was allowed to flow through the pump motor. The same would be true of the ground circuit leaving the pump if it wasn't healthy enough to "drain" off voltage from the circuit. It might show decent ohmmeter numbers if tested without circuit load on it, but fall apart quickly once current is being forced through a terminal that heats up. You'll see residual voltage on a ground circuit when it's inadequate and actually flowing current. I'm pretty confident that you'll find something in that intermediate connector above the frame rail. It might be a bit hard to get apart, but a few good shots from a spray bottle loaded with just water will usually loosen the red slide-lock and help get the thing apart. These connectors are in an absolutely awful place when it comes to picking up road crud. The only wires that matter for pump operation are the power and ground (the rest are unrelated circuits). You'll find those two wires in the top row of the connector, one terminal in from either end. Take your time, no need to rush... I'll be around.Ed