Is this how the connector on the bulb looks like?
If so, I would replace both sockets.
Autozone sells them for $13.19 each, http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Novita-Headlight-Socket/2006-Dodge-RAM-1500-1-2-ton-4WD/_/N-jo0fgZ9cika?itemIdentifier=378892_738549_0_
How far back on the wire do I need to go? Is there a junction I can check? Why would they both go out simultaniously?
Our climate is pretty dry. We don't have much rust here. No road salts or anything. Are the headlight wires interconnected? In other words, does the wire run to one light then from that light to the other?
I can upload a wiring digram if you want.
I may need more info such as engine and if 2wd or 4wd, plus if it's a base, lightning or slt.
Tried clicking "here" but it says URL not found. It is a V6, 1500 ST package 2WD.
I tested the wires 6-8 inches back from the socket on both sides and I have power on the low beam wire but not on either high beam wire.
Yes, the little blue "headlight" indicator is on. When it is on, I get no power reading on the socket/wire at all. When the indicator is off (low beam) I get a hot on one wire.
Is that the silver box that is mounted to the firewall that has four "outlets" coming out of the top of it with about 30 wires coming out of each outlet?
I don't think so, the integrated Power Module is located in the engine compartment near the battery. This center contains cartridge fuses and mini fuses.
Is your battery right net to the brake master cylinder? If so, that module is right there.
Here is the Integrated Power Module Location from the owners manual, which you can download here, http://www.ramtrucks.com/en/owners/manuals/
Okay, I found that and pulled it up out of the bracket. There are a lot of plugs & wires going into the back of it. There are several that have the wht/brn, wht/grn, wht/gry, wht blue wires going into them. How do I know which is the correct ones to test?
First of all, I don't know why you are testing a white/brown or white/green. Actually the white/blue is a white/dark blue.
Plus, there is no need to test the low beams if they are working, so the only ones you should worry about as you said where the 2 high beams. Unless when you said the left side went out, you meant both high and low beams.
So, just test the White/Light Green and White/Gray wires. How many of them are there?
The reason I was checking the low beams was mainly to make sure my tester was working and to see which wires were which. I thought if I could find the low beam wires at the IPML, It might be easier to find the other two. Should the high beam wires be coming out of the same plug as the low beam wires? Okay, plug D has a wht/drk blu, wht/gry, wht/brn, wht/grn. Plug E has a wht/gry, wht/grn, wht/brn. They both also have other colored wires but no other white wires in those two plugs.
On plug "E", the wht/gry wire shows power on high beam. No other wire shows power on high beam.
No, that wire stays hot with the headlight switch off.
Yes there is, let me check it. Also, that wht/gry wire was the dome light. stand by.
I get no test light on any wire on Plug "C".
Wht/lt grn yes, wht/gry no.
Did the White/Light Green have power with headlights on high beam? If not, I suspect that module is bad. If that module is in a spot that would get wet, that may have caused it. I don't know how to take them apart to do any further testing or repair.
I suppose the dealer would sell that or the salvage yards in case it is really expensive.
I don't know what else to try Mike. I think I am going to take it to a shop. Can't really afford it but, kinda no choise. Unless you have any other ideas.
Try here for a used tipm first. I believe it's the same as a fuse box, so go down to fuse box in the drop down list. What is your zipcode, although it shouldn't cost much to ship that, you could probably buy it from anywhere in the USA.
What are they listed under? I don't see TIPM on the list?
How sure are you that it is the likely culprit?
Oh, I agree. I don't have an issue with the $125 I just hate to spend it if I don't have to. I found it odd there were no fuses for the headlights also. I will try checking all of the fuses first and see what happens. I will let you know what happens. Thank for all of your help/input so far.
Are they something I should be able to check visually as I pull each one or do they need to be checked with a continuity tester?
I have a multi-tester. I am not sure what to do to test them but I'll try. I also don't know what the B+ terminal is but, I will see what I can do.
I take it that that is with the fuse "still in place in it's socket"? Also, Is replacing the fuse box something the average person can do? Is it just a matter of disconnecting the battery and unplugging the plugs from each terminal and replacing them in the same terminals on the new box? No tricks to getting the plugs to disconnect?
Yes, with the fuse still inplace in the socket. Some fuses also must have the key on.
To be honest, I have never replaced one of those before, but if you want to try it yourself, I can see if my manual has instructions.
Let me take a look at it Mike and test the fuses first. I don't want to put you through all that yet. Thank you so much for you patience. I am not a very good or knowledgable mechanic but I try. On a fixed income I have to try to do everything I can my self first.
Here is what I found:
All of the current from the battery and the generator output enters the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) via a stud on the top of the module. The TIPM cover is removed to access the fuses or relays. Internal connections of all of the power distribution center circuits is accomplished by a combination of bus bars and a printed circuit board.
The Totally Integrated Power Module (2)(TIPM) is a combination unit that performs the functions of the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and the Front Control Module. The TIPM is a printed circuit board based module that contains fuses, internal relays and a microprocessor that performs the functions previously executed by the FCM. The TIPM (2) is located in the engine compartment, next to the battery (1) and connects directly to the B+ cable (5) via a stud located on top of the unit. The ground connection is via electrical connectors. The TIPM provides the primary means of voltage distribution and protection for the entire vehicle. The molded plastic TIPM housing includes a base and cover. The TIPM cover is easily opened or removed for service and has a fuse and relay layout map integral to the inside surface of the cover. The TIPM housing base and cover are secured in place via mounting tabs. The mounting tabs secure the TIPM (2) to the battery tray mounting bracket (3). For instructions on R&R, click here and here.
I'm going to go out and test some fuses. I see that they 30 & 40 amp fuses gon't have the little metal tabs that you can touch the tester to. How do I check them?
All testable fuses check okay. Here is something interesting I found.,(refer to the picture of the pigtail socket, it has three holes for the pins on the bulb.) When I test the headlight sockets with the volt meter both the number one hole and the number three hole on both pigtails show voltage (11.27v) when the headlight switch is on, high or low beam doesn't matter. However, if I just use a test light (The kind that youy hook the alligator clip to a ground and poke into wire insulation to see if it lights up), only one pin lights it up on low bwam and none on high beam. Why is that?
Is that east coast time or west coast?
East, I'm awake again.
I'm hypothyroid and get tired from time to time.
What are the color of the wires that show 11.27v?
How are you hooking up the voltmeter?
I couldn't wait any longer so, I just took it to a shop. Thanks anyway.
I don't know yet. I dropped it off at 12:30 PST. They are going to call.
The cheapest I can get one anywhere near here is $475. I am in a bit of a hurry, I am supposed to leave for Wyoming on Sunday. Is it ethical to ask them to install a used one. Is it likely they would? I mean, they will be getting the labor charges regardless right?
Sorry, I was out.
Labor for replacing it might be 1 hour. Labor for diagnosing it, might be another hour.