Welcome to Ja. My name is Leon your online tech
give me a few minutes to check into the wiring schematics and read your work done so far and see what i can come up with.
OK almost done thank you for waiting
what size engine do you have
it's the 6 cyl 3.9litre. Two nights ago my right blinker started signaling all on its own for a bit then stopped, I then lost dash, tail, signals, hazards. All I had was headlights and brake lights. I changed the 20amp haz/signal fuse in the engine bay fuse box, that got my hazards and signals back, all the other fuses are good.
so the 20 amp fuse still ok?
you have a volt/ohm meter?
yes I still have hazards and signals so the 20amp fuse is still ok. I put a test light on the fuses and the two I mentioned have no power to them. I think if I test both sides of the fuse and only one side lights up the fuse is blown, but there is power to that fuse, on the 5amp fuse #9 for the "panel dim", which sends power to the dashboard lights, it's a new fuse and niether side lights up.
I have a test light, and a voltmeter
# 9 and what number is the other?
are you at the junction fuse block on the side of dash drivers side?
no i'm inside, but there's no number slot for it, it's the "park lamp relay", its a larger fuse with 5 prongs and each prong on the back of the fuse is numbered #30, 85,86,87
like this one to make sure we are in the same area
were in the same area yes
ok hold while i gather a test for you.
Do you own a volt/ohm meter?
yes, I have a voltmeter and a test light
at the number 9 you have no power to either side of fuse correct? This is impotant so i can help you to the power source from the wiring schematic
correct no power at fuse #9 (panel dim), it sends the power to the dashboard. I can live without dashboard lights, my main concern is tail lights. THERE IS POWER to fuse #4 "park lamp" and the fuse is good
ok thank you for this information hold please
fuse # 9 is a five amp fuse correct
number # 9 slot is lower right bottom
correct fuse 9 is a 5amp fuse for the dash, and you can see the park lamp relay at the top. no power to the relay or fuse 9
but there is power to the 20amp fuse #4 which is for the park lamp, but they don't work
ok thank you going futher back from this point to see what gives this power to these circuits hold please
ok at the parking lamp relay slot 30 see if you have power there 12 volts
trying to get you the cavity legend for you hold
I checked that already, no power to it. In my opening comment I said that I had checked slot 30, 85,86,87. I know the fuse is good because the horn relay, which sits right next to it works, and they are identical fuses so I switched them and the horn still worked.
So it looks like if there is power to fuse #4 but not at the relay then there is a bad connection between them. So my return question is how does this relate to me losing signals and hazards initially then replacing a fuse in the main engine bay fuse box to restore the signal lights......if there is a bad connection between #4 and the relay, which are in the same fuse box???
thank you for clearing this up. yes there is two fuses in the main power distribution box under hood.
you do have headlights correct
and there is no power to #4 fuse either side so we must back up to the power distribution center
are you ther
are you there
I went outside to the truck
if there is no power to fuse 4 then we have to go from there back to where the power comes from
do you have head lights
yes I have headlights and brake lights, and incorrect THERE IS POWER TO #4 FUSE.
reason i ask i will show you in the up coming image.
now what did you find in the power distribution senter
at the two locations in the last image
from your diagram it looks like power runs from #4 fuse to the park lamp relay and then on to the various lights, I understand that if I don't have power at the relay then there won't be power at slot #9, which is for the dash. So it stands to reason that there is a bad connection between fuse #4, WHICH THERE IS POWER, and the relay. But why would that effect me losing the signals as well two nights ago which was fixed by replacing the 20amp fuse in F/L #1 in the second diagram.
I checked F/L # 5 & 7 and they are good fuses with power
no, if you do not have power at fuse 4 there will be no power in between the fuse and relay we have to find out why there is no power to fuse 4 to get power to relay
if i am to understand what you are telling me is there is no power to either side on fuse 4 correct
m sending you after confirmation where the power comes from to parking lamp relay
there IS power to both side of the 20amp fuse #4 in the fuse box that is in the cab. I have power to that fuse and the fuse is good
ok so sorry
so #9 fuse is the one with no power to either side of fuse correct
we are going to do a continuity check from fuse 4 to slot 30 of the relay. Do you have continuity ?
we have power to fuse 4 but no power to slot 30 correct
correct, fuse #9 doesn't have power correct fuse #4 HAS power
correct no power at slot #30
you have multimeter to check this wire from out put fuse 4 to slot 30
how do I check this wire in the diagram?? is it way up inside the dashboard coming off my light switch
i am searching this for you now
I'm heading out to the truck to see if maybe a jumper wire from fuse 4 to slot 30 will do anything
the wire is behind the the junction box and goes up to the head light switch
ok from the diagram it looks like its a black and yellow wire, how do I check to see if the wire is good using a multimeter
sorry i do not know what wire color this is in the diagram, but what we are checking is to the relay not through the relay. The black /yellow wire is after going through relay. If it is black and yellow i need to correct our wiring diagram. image coming up.
then test slot 86 as well then test in short steps back to fuse when you have continuity then there is the break in wire
does not matter which lead goes where the black can go to fuse port and the red to slot 86 and 30
in the previous diagram you said to test a wire for continuity and that was a bk/yl wire coming from the headlamp switch to the park relay, i was wondering how to test that wire with a multimeter.
I'll go out and test them, using a volt meter I should get 12v, correct
yes but use the continuity scale =e on the ohm side
turn your meter to the 20k scale touch leads to gether and it should beep or red zero ohms. When you check the circuit and is open the no ohms will display
or you can use the volt scale and keep one lead to the fuse 4 port and slowly working back to fuse, when you have 12 volts showing back up and find where the reading zero is and then find 12 volts between them is the problem
I like the beep continuity meter if you have it cause i can pay attention to what i am oing and listen too when i have contact to fuse 4 out port
or you can run wire from port 4 out put to relay 66 and 30 and see if you have parking lights and dash lights
ok got it, give me a bit to check
i will be here till 7 am
Alright what I did was run a jumper wire from the #4 fuse and I got dashboard and tail lights when I connected the wire to slot #87, the other slots gave me the "chime noise" when the door is open, but not lights in any of the other slots just slot #87
alright you have a break in that wire i would just run new wire and all is well. Just snip off old wire from both ends
I am glad you found the problem.
Is there anything else i can help you with?
Do you see a green accept button on the screen?
hold on a second, a break in what wire?? run a new wire from where to where?? How do I get at this wire??
all the wires at the back of the fuse box look like they go into fusable links
I don't think there is just one wire going from fuse #4 to slot 87, it's not that easy
jump #4 to slot 86 and then to 30 do you have lights?
jump #4 to 86 LIGHTS
jump #4 to 30 NO LIGHTS
what ou did is by pass the relay i want to make sure you go through relay, cause you might have a bad ground. If yo have lights the it is the power going to slot 86 and 30 from fuse out port 4
ok hold pleas
yes i understand. Well then how do I look for a bad ground if that may ultimately be the problem.
ok the ground for 86 and 30 run on the same wire. You have a wiring problem before slot 86 which supplies slot 30 power, too.
I would run new wire to slot 86 from fuse port 4. and this will take care of the problem
so the ground is not an issue ir=f you run the jumper from port 4 to slot 86, do you have power at slot 30?
just to re check
at slot 30 the test lamp doesn't go on and nothing happened when I put the jumper wire on slot 30
so I'm assuming there is no power there
no, put jumper at slot 86 and test with light at 30
sorry from port 4 to slot 86 and then test slot 30 for power
ill try it
I put the jumper from fuse #4 to slot 87, I got the dash and tail lights on, and then with the jumper still on I checked the other slots 30, 85, 86, and 87a with the test lamp and there is no power at any of the slots.
As i have mentioned before you are bypassing slot 86 and 30 by going to slot 87 you must jump from port fuse 4 to slot 86 leave jumper on and with test light check slot 30
take your time i know this is in a tight place
i need to know if you have power to know where to go next
this will have to be done at the back of junction box with relay install. c=this is called back probing.
if you are getting tired we can continue tomorrow if you like? i will tell you how to keep us in contact?
ok, with the jumper from #4 to slot 86, I got power at the 30 slot
do the lights work?
no, the dash and tail lights never come on when I jump to slot 86, they only work when I jump to slot 87
is the relay next to the parking light relay the sameas the relay next to it?
i need this info to continue with the wiring charts
the relay next to it is the horn relay and its the same exact relay. The horn works so I switched them around earlier to see if the relay was bad. The horn works with either relay and the lights don't work with either relay
i wish i had two screens to view and talk to you i have to switch from you to the professional chart diagrams so please excuse my delays
ok making sure and yes no lights cause no power going through relay, if you are getting tired and it is dark out where you are at we can continue this tomorrow, i speak in consideration of you, me i am ok to proceed
do you have automatic or clutch?
ok cause there is a tsb from the dealer stats of wiring routed incorrectly and rubbing on clutch arm
still trying to find this ground i know it is a black and pink dtrip wire
thank you for the wait i was in a meeting discussing the matter with other dodge master techs and we all agree that there is a grounding problem. The ground from the central timer module controls the ground to the parking light relay. Which as we know controls #9 fuse as well from the headlight switch. Everything leads to the Central Timer Module.