Hello welcome to JustAnswer, My name is XXXXX XXXXX I will be assisting you. Is the check engine light on?
Do you see what is causing the belt to come off?
the fan belt came off and wrapped itself around everything. the top idler pulley. i have replaced that.
ARE THERE CAM AND ACRANK SHAFT SENSORS THAT COULD HAVE BEEN DAMAGED ?
NO POWER IN OR OUT OF THE COIL PACKS
Have you checked the fuses?The crank sensor is here:
It would not be damaged from belt
WHAT ABOUT THE CAM SHAFT SENSOR ??
Can you inspect it for damage?
WHAT WOULD BE THE CAUSE OF OF NO POWER TO THE COIL PACKS ?? I HAVE CHECKED THE FUSE IN THE CAB FOR ENGINE AND IT HAS POWER ON BOTH SIDES.
The coils get the 12v from the ASD relay and a ground pluse from the PCM..
WOULD THERE BE A WIRE PLUG THAT WOULD PLUG INTO IT ALSO ??
THE CAM SENSOR
I CAN RUN OUT AND LOOK AT IT . YOU WILL HAVE TO GIVE ME A COUPLE OF MINUTES.
Take your time... And if you can do me a favor and turn off CAPS.. it kind of sounds like you are shouting... Thanks!
IS THE CAM SENSOR ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE ? SORRY I CAN SEE IT BETTER WITH CAPS ON AND I AM NOT YELLING AT YOU JUST THE DODGE.
Ok I understand... And it is located to the right(drivers side) of the water pump..
okay be right back in a couple.
Take your time..
And the bold looks better,,, Thanks
well everything is still there, the sensor and the two wires that go to it. nothing feels damaged.
where is the asd relay and the pcm located?
The ASD relay is in the fuse panel under hood.. It's labled ASD.. The the PCM is mounted on the passenger side firewall
how do you test them?
asd relay ? location?
Do you have a test light or multi-meter?
Ok great!! Have you located the ASD relay?
do you have a blow up of the engine compartment?
not yet. where is it on the drivers or passenger side ?
Can you find the fuse panel?
in the engine compartment?
let me run out and take another look. is it by the battery ??
I'm getting a picture now.
okay thanks. i should just take a picture of it with my cell phone.
Locate the ASD relay and with your test light clip it to ground and test pins 30 and 85-86
what does asd stand for ? i take it is inside the engine compartment fuse box ?
ASD is Auto ShutDown
Correct it is the engine fuse panel
i have an auto shut down relay.
Ok remove it and test the pins
fuel pump relay ,20 amp fuel pump big fuse ( key on has power going thru, is okay)
We need to test the ASD relay
okay i will go out and test the pins on the relay or the wiring in the dodge ?
You will need to remove the relay, turn it upside down and locate the #30 pin then see where it would connect in the fuse panel and test that slot
okay got it be back in a few.
Take your time
okay with key on 30,86 has power the rest do not
and i noticed that the relays are all the same part number .
so i switch a couple of relays to see if that worked but no such luck
Ok, now attach your test light to positive battery and test pin 85 while trying to start..
okay anything else while i am out there ?
Not yet.. That is the next step
okay be back in a few...
Take your time.
okay back. testing 85 at first very dim before key on, turn key on bright light for a second and goes out, when cranking no light.
Ok the PCM is not seeing a crank or cam signal.. It should be on while cranking.. And you did have the test light connected to positive battery and probed the slot 85 correct?
i went to school to be an auto mechanic and when i couldn't see the engine because of all the relays and hoses that is when i quit.
When you try and start it does the RPM's move?
the tach on the dash ??
i will have to check it out.
i will be right back.
shows how much i drive this dodge , no tach.
1995 dodge 3500 slt cab and chassis.
If you don't have a Tech reading, it sounds like your crankshaft sensor is faulty
i don't have a tach to register rpms.
If it is faulty it will turn off the coils
what do you mean tech reading ?
I understand.. No tach in cluster?
Tech is Rpm reading.
okay. i got you.
so replace the crank sensor ? or test it ?
If you have a multi-meter test the wires to it to see if it has 5 volts
okay where do i connect the leads ??
the wires i got it.
Ground the black lead and test the wires
be back in a few. is this a flat 45.00 or am i being charged additionally.
You are charged until you rate me... And even then you can still reply to me at no charge..
You arent charged until you rate me..
just the 45.00 ??
Correct just the 45.00
okay i will be right back.
i am back
blew up my first meter, ( fried the fuse) . to make sure i have the correct one, the plug i found has three wires that goes down to the cranks shaft sensor about 20 inches from the sensor. that was the one i tested.
That is correct
with the plug retainer on the bottom from left to right with key off next to nothing on all three wires, with key on from left to right 9 , 30 and 110 volts but it was fluctuating wildly with the new and i think better meter klein tools cl200.the first meter was the old small box looking meter.
Set the meter on DCV and test
i at first put the ground on chassis and then clipped it to the negitive bat. i did put it on the dcv automatic setting.
What was reading with new meter?
the first meter pegged at over 5 volts before the fuse blew
new meterwas what i told you previously.9,30,110
what wire should have over 5 volts ?
Something is wrong because the vehicle only has 12v.. it couldn't be over 12v
i know it doesn't make sense. thats why i was away so long.
i will go back out and try again.what wire should i be looking at ?
Just test all 3.. I'm looking for a 5 volt wire
9,0, and 5.1 from left to right.
Is that when it's unplugged?
yes and the key on.
key off nothing
this all started when it over heated and i found all the damage as i described before.
the idler pulley jambed and the belt broke and radiator cap didn't release and then radiator tank split open and truck quit.
the last test was readings from the wire from the truck and not from the sensor.
when trying to find the crank sensor it will be a bear trying to get at it.
to replace .
i did take out the original air filter and replaced it with after market cone filter. mounts on the outside of truck. if that has anything to do with it.
No this is a electrical issue.
Do have a scantool?
To check for codes?
where would i hook it up at?? when i go get one.
how much are they??
you have a 1995, can you look under the drivers side dash to see if you have a connector
Advance rents them
toward the middle under dash.
i think napa auto parts here in omaha rents them..
i also have a john deer 4200 utility that quit on me yesterday. just driving a long and quit running and the white smoke just poured out. that will not start either.
so where do i go from here ?
yea thats the critter.
i have even un hooked the battery to reset everything but no luck.
The codes it has will help me in determining what exactly is wrong and not guessing..
okay so what do i need to do save and exit?
Just leave it open and reply back..
okay it will be awhile . what kind of scan tool do you recommend ??
It dont need to be a expensive one.. In your case just a code reader will work fine..
okay off to NAPA.
I look forward to your reply..
bought an innova 1402b scan tool can obd 2 & 1. codes are as follows 43,42,47,21,47 again and 42 again.
the connector was not inside, it was engine compartment next to the computer(i guess) and it was the obd1 connector not the obd2.
Thanks for the codes
21- Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor43-Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time42-Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted47- Battery voltage too low and alternator output too lowCan you erase them and try and start it to see what codes come back?Thanks
how do i erase the codes?
how do i rease the codes ?? disconnect the battery??
okay. i have already disconnected the battery before we started testing things.
after the engine quit , the start of this problem, the battery was totally discharged and would not take a charge, so i had switch it with another , so the battery has been disconnected and removed and replaced.
the codes that i have given you.
the o2 sensor code makes sense because it has always just blew thru gas and you can smell unburned fuel coming out the tail pipe. put bosch plat 4 for hotter spark to help that problem.
i will go out and erase codes thru scantool and see what it says.
what should i replace ???
Are you here?
Ok great!!! Sorry , I work at a Dodge dealership during the day.. But i'm all here now.Ok so you still have the same codes.. Did you install the ASD relay?
didnt have any on back order.
I'm sorry.. I mean did you put it back in the fuse box?
Ok great.. And did you erase the codes with the scantool?
it would not erase the codes because according to innova it will not erase codes for heavy duty trucks. 3500 they consider heavy duty.
So maybe the ASD code is from when you removed it...
i have unhooked the battery for better part of the day. i don't know if that has any effect.
i ahve no idea about the asd code
Does the scantool allow you to watch the sensors?
i am at a loss
of what to do anymore
it is a innova 1403b. it has a bunch small round circles up top ... mis, fue,ccm,cat,air,o2s, htr and double that amount that are not highlighted
how else can i erase the codes
If you have a min.. Can you watch THIS.. It will teach you about your scantool
I just watched it.. You need to press the RED erase button to erase codes..
And then try and start it and see what codes come back..
I'm trying to help you use your scantool, to help me know what it is doing..
thanks for you tube video. sorry got distracted for the flexing boobs vids. okay i have already done the erasing of the codes a few times with the red button. i was trying tio erase the codes in the 3500.
It wouldn't let you?
no it wouldn't
and after trying several times it came up with call tech service
so i cvalled and they then told me that this tool wouldn't read or erase codes on a heavy duty truck. like i said before they consider a 3500 a h duty truck
well we know it was reading the codes.
any other way to erase the codes on the truck ?
Not really.. Can you just hook it up and press LD which will be Live Data, and tell me if it gives you a crank or cam reading.
i am thinking because the truck got hot that the crank sensor and / or the camshaft sensor got cooked in the process. okay i will go out and do that.
wish i had a spare computer for this 3500.
be back in few
I understand that.. The bad part is that if it was at my dealership, I would know the issue within 10min..
I can help you fix it, I just needs to know exactly what the engine is doing.. If you understand..
We will get it though..
i did the procedure and it defaults back to the menu, review dtcs,1989-1994,1994/fcc and 1995. no live data
i tried holding down ld/m button as i cranked and nothing. then i tried just cranking, nothing
This is aweful.. A scantool that won't even tell us anything..
1989-1994 review of the dtc shows code 11, 1994/fcc and 1995 shows same codes
yea thats why i went back to napa
and told them the damned doesn't work
scanner doesn't work.
brand new 384.00
they were going to call the company on tuesday
have you run into this before ?? the 3500 with the same problems
where is your dealership at?
i will drive there
Not sling a belt and get a no start..
I'm in GA
towing the 3500 behind my duramax
hell my sister is in GA.
somewhere by atlanta
If I knew if the crank or cam sensors where working by watching them, I could help you fix it.. BUt there is 2 ways to check a crank sensor, with a scantool or ocilloscope
how long to change the crank and camshaft sensors. how much work?
one is 89.00 and one is 75.00
No bad at all...
oh and they are special order
You have done spent 400 on scantool, and it will be bad if a 80 sensor fixes it..
looks like i should have left the radiator out to get at the cam sensor
yea but i have 07 hs hummer that does the security lock out trick on wife every once in awhile. i have other vehicles that have certain other problems. but i don't think the damned thing works.
tommorrow i will go back to NAPA and either get money back or exchange it.
how hard is it to change out the crankshaft and the camshaft sensors
The camshaft position sensor is located on the timing chain case/cover on the left-front side of the engine.
A thin plastic rib is molded into the face of the sensor to position the depth of sensor to the upper cam gear (sprocket) This rib can be found on both the new replacement sensors and sensors that were originally installed to the engine. The first time the engine has been operated, part of this rib may be sheared (ground) off. Depending on parts tolerances, some of the rib material may still be observed after removal
Refer to either of the following procedures, Sensor Removal - Replacing Old Sensor With Original, or Sensor Removal - Replacing With New Sensor:
camshaft sensor just pulls out or does a bolt hold it in ??
It bolts in and pulls out,,
bolt and a retainer setup ??
just getting to it will be fun.
roughly 2 weeks to get the parts asd relay and the two sensors
Dang.. That is aweful
dodge doesn't even have them
any other possibilities for the problem??
We tested the PCM and it was not telling the PCM to turn on.. The PCM needs to see Crank sensor turning the engine before it will.. So it's either Crank sensor, wiring, PCM
It needs to see cam sensor for proper firing or the injectors and coils
okay, on the live data it has to be running to be able to get info, according to the manual.
Does it have a no-start screen?
The DRBIII I use at dealership has a No-Start screen and will tell you live data
how much are they?
for that amount i could possibly convert over to a cummins.
thats what i sold soybeans for today
at 15.27 each
but it costs me 9.88 per bushel to raise them
So are you going to try the sensors?
corn closed at 7.02 but it now cost me 5.13 to raise each
They have the 5V and are fairly cheap..
yes i think i will
I really wish we could test and see if the PCM was seeing them..
how much is a pcm ??
But we have done all we can do without more tools.
Let me check..
are you busy at your dealership ??
okay. i have got to go suppers on the table and the wife has been yelling.
signing off from the heartland ---Nebraska
Have a great night!!Brad