The repeating P0601 has nothing to do with you OR your truck... it's an internal checksum error within the PCM itself.
Your options are limited to replacing the controller yet again or just living with the CHECK ENGINE lamp being lit forever.
Since the code can be set from a checksum error with the software from either the writable or locked side of the controller, you might have success with reflashing the PCM. I tried that recently with a friend's Durango (same controller) and the CE light stayed off for a few days but returned.
There are very few choices these days other than to buy a remanufactored PCM since production on the JTEC+ controller stopped years and years ago. Sometimes a simple issue like P0601 slips past quality screening, but I'd expect the next one to be OK. You'll almost certainly have a replacement warranty... right?
And once again the PCM needs to be programmed with your VIN and odometer reading. If it has the grey key (with the transponder chip), the new controller has to be introduced to the SKIM system before it will let you go for a ride. Some aftermarket PCM suppliers can do this ahead of time before the controller is shipped... which is much handier than the alternative.
If there's any silver lining to the P0601, it's that I've never seen an actual running or reliability problem arise from this code. It's an irritation and it prevents you from knowing when a new problem pops up (constantly on MIL) but other than that... it's business as usual for the PCM.
I'm not sure if you saw in my post that I've already replaced the PCM with a re-manufactured one flashed to my vehicle by auto computer exchange. It was the same as your friends Durango it was fine for about 3 or 4 drives and now it is back on.
It looks like there might be problems with the site preventing you from entering chat. I'll end the chat to open up conventional Q&A that works much like normal email. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll try to post within the next few minutes (got to head to work soon).Thanks,
I did have an issue with the cruise shutting off after I tapped the brake which is now gone, yet the light is still on
Back now. Is there anything else I could help with?
In this case, it's out of our hands. Checksum errors happen and it's just yet another unpleasant fact of life with these engine controllers. My feeling is that the error or core problem was already present in the controller you got online but took a few days to act up (like with my buddy's unit after flashing). Nothing external to the controller causes this to happen that I know of and a good replacement unit ends the suffering each time. That's the trick it appears at this point... getting a good replacement part.
As for upgrading to a Ram, they use the same engine controller up to about 2003, depending on engine choice. The Next Generation Controller (aptly named NGC) has none of these checksum issue problems which tells me that it's a JTEC thing. Just get an exchange and hope for the best; there isn't anything you or I can do to better the odds of getting a good controller or keeping the new one healthy. In the case of P0601, it is what it is.
You know, I don't know why it would do that and it's the first time I've heard of an instance of P0601- induced MIL illumination going out on it own. They've always just burned the MIL constantly from what I've heard, but I don't always (usually?) get the whole story once a customer talks to the service writers. Maybe that happens more often than expected, but the exact process of checking and qualifying for a P0601 isn't exactly known. They may continuously monitor checksum as you drive or it might recheck only at certain times, keyed to miles driven or key-on minutes elapsed. Dunno.
But as Yoda would say... bad it is, exchange it you should. While there's a chance of importing a new problem with the next controller, I doubt that you'll see the same problem a second time in a row and that's just luck of the draw these days with reman controllers unfortunately. We had a run of horrible quality control on our own line of reman JTEC controllers a few years ago, sometimes requiring three attempts to get a good one. And just like you saw, sometimes they roll right out of the box with a P0601 that set immediately which showed there wasn't a whole lot of effort going into the reman/ filter process.
No, I'm sure that your problem lies with the controller and NOT the vehicle. It's a standard concern that poor power or ground feeds can cause some types of problems, but this isn't one of them. No burn-in or learning period is involved, only the internal self-test that happens at some point once the controller is told to wake up.
Honestly, I don't know HOW they would even get to the board to replace faulty chips or problems because these units are encased in some sort of synthetic Jello. That's their business I guess..
Keep up the fight, Jeff. They owe you a good PCM.
I'm doing everything I can to get this all worked out. I contacted them and he was going to get with the Tech and see what he has to say. I didn't get a call back yet did see they are sending me another package......lol
I did come up with another issue which might be something I need to address. I had an issue with my passenger door lock squealing and sometimes not unlocking at all. I had to reach inside and force the lock open. The FOB started to unlock all doors at once which I didn’t think was a big deal. I obtained a used one and everything seems to be working fine, except I can't seem to get the FOB to switch from all unlock to just the driver's door first then the others. I also can't seem to get the auto-lock to go off.
I cycled the power on and off 4 times with the 4th staying on then within 30 seconds hit the driver lock to unlock then I should hear a chime. This doesn't work for me, no chime no switch. Is there something with the locking system I should check and could this be an issue with the PCM?
No, no need to disconnect power but you can if you like. Just be sure the key is off when you're doing the swap. The only difference you'll see if the battery is disconnected is that you also lost your radio channels. =/
Once done, just roll the key ON after replacement... count five... and then you can start the engine. The pause gives the idle motor time to extend/ retract to learn its position and is a major factor in getting a good strong idle right from the start.
I still haven't researched your key unlock sequence (rough day)...
I received the 2nd ECM from them. I checked all the grounds I could find and checked the ohms from ground stud to battery and ground strap to ground stud with no major differences. I changed the ECM with battery still connected. Rolled key over paused for a slow 5 count and then started the engine. They suggested I allow the engine to run for 15 minutes for everything to sync which I allowed 21 minutes. I turned the key off and waited 5 minutes. I turned the key back on and you got it..........check engine light was on with the P0601 code. I didn't change the battery yet as it was showing 12.20 volts dc and have had it check with no issues. Is there anything else which I should be checking which would allow this issue to continue? I just can't understand what is going on as I did notice the check engine light wasn't on before I started it.
This has me really stumped and not sure what to do regarding try to get another one, get refund and take it to the dealership and take the hit or what. Please let me know what you think as I know it hasn't caused any issues regarding the light but if I try to sell it I'm sure that will be hard to explain. I still can't see to get the key fob single lock, or horn to honk when locked. Could this be an issue I need to check or could be causing the issue?
Thank you in advance for your help and I look forward to your advise,
Sorry, Jeff... there's nothing more I can tell you. Here is the P0601 diagnostic procedure taken directly from Page 38 of the Drive book:
1) NOTE: This DTC indicates an internal PCM problem. If there are no possible causes remaining, view repair*.
Replace and program the Powertrain Control Module in
accordance with the Service Information.
* This is my asterisk, the bold type was theirs. The last thing stated in any of our diagnostic procedures when
the last thing has already been suggested (in this case nothing because no external
tests are needed or possible), it directs us to "view repair".
I'd like to render an opinion, but electronic text is forever these days and that's what lawyers get paid for. Let's just say that I strongly believe you have gotten bad controllers and leave it at that. I'll be glad to opt out of your question if you think a second opinion would help. I'm not upset with you, Jeff. I know you're in a difficult position and it looks like we've come to a dead end at this point.
Let me know and I'll opt out to open your question to the JA community.
I've need to pick you brain a little more please....if you want. Auto Computer Exchange has programmed another ecm and has sent it out. They are still saying they think it is in the battery. I changed out the battery and started it up with no light and no P0601 code. I started it about 6 time and no light. I tried to do the chicken dance with no luck then started the truck and you got it light came on with code. I unplugged the ECM for about 5 minutes and started it back up with again no light. I started it up many times and again no light no code. I then locked the doors, started truck and light came on.
Could you please help me with some info on the locking system? It sure seems like there is some correlation with the lock system and the code. I did install a used lock on the passenger front but they seem to be working fine. What holds the key to the lock configuration? Is there a fuse I might need to change?
I'm sure this out of the ordinary but it just seems to me when I lock or unlock the doors it kicks the code now that the battery is new.
I figured you probably wouldn't be able to give me intel until Monday so no problem. I'm going to mess with it more tomorrow since I now have 3 ECMs.......lol
I plan to disconnect and make sure I don't have a code and then start 10 to 15 times and then drive it around for a while. I still can't get the chicken dance to work so I'll leave well enough alone. I'll let you know what happens and see what you think.
I always say if it were easy everyone would do it.........lol
I wonder could the BCM/CTM be causing the P0601 code? I had the issue with the cruise control and now issue with locking system chicken dance not working.....I wonder if I have a bad BCM/CTM which is sending a false signal to the PCM.
I only wish we could have 67 at 6:30.....It was 84 Thursday going to work at 5:30 am I think it hit 107 that day here in Wichita. :-(
Let me know what you think regarding the BCM and is there anyway to test it.
I forgot 1 more thing regarding the BCMs. Do they have to be flashed to the vehicle like the PCM?
BCM....CTM I've read that in 01 some had the BCM and some had the CTM...... I pulled the kick panel and have the part number. I also pulled the connector to look for bent pins or loose connectors. It sure seems my issue is tied to the locks. I showed no codes and the light wasn't on when I started the truck probably 20 times and put in gear from time to time with no problems. I pressed the unlock button 1 time and restarted which then the light was on and I now had the P0601 code. I cleared the code and put another PCM in there with no light and no code which stayed that way until I hit the locks again.
I thought I had it all figured out and now the light comes on before I hit the locks but I've tapped on the BCM/CTM and unplugged it several times. I'm sure I even have the boxes confused....... :-p
Regarding the weather is it already 98 and suppose to be climbing up to 105 by 5pm tonight...........you just have to love the flat plains......lol
I'm looking for the schematic for the door locks and some reading to continue with trouble shooting but I think it might have been a combination of several items.
Let me know what you think and if I'm headed down the right path.
This things is driving me crazy. I was able to locate a CTM with the same part number other than it was AH and mine is AK. I thought for as little as I got it I would try and nothing. It let the doors lock but not unlock. I cleaned the connections and put the old CTM back in with same issue.
I've been switching PCMs around with light on most of the time. I put the original PCM with the light on. I went for a drive and the cruise issue came back. That is the one when I set the cruise over 60 once I touch the brake to dis-engage it after it slows down about 10 mph the gauge (speedometer) jumps approx 15 to 20 mph down, the cruise light goes off like you shut it off then it will jump back to normal.
I drove it about 3 miles with the cruise on at 70 mph I touched the brake to slow down for the exit, the speedo jumped, cruise light went off and as soon as I turned the check engine light went off all the way home. I turned it off and then re-started it and light came back on, of course.
Where is does the signal for the cruise go to and from, regarding like the PCM, CTM.....ect
I'll be talking to the supplier again to see what they want to do but seems strange how the light will go off at times.
I'm sure you will never see a P0601 code the same way from here out......lol
No the weird jump speedo is ONLY with the cruise on over 60, tap the brake, reduse approx 10 mph, jump and cruise light goes off like you turned it off.
There is no ABS issues regarding the lamp/light. I think the cruise if probably in the PCM as none of the other remans have the cruise issue, just the dreaded P0601 code off and on. I find it odd that the light comes on at times and then off for a while. It might be 2 starts might be 20 starts.......... :-(
I tell you if you were closer I would drive it to you and leave.......I would even block the door to make no one goes in or out..........lol
I'm going to mess with it some more tomorrow and call them on Monday........maybe the 4th time is the charm.........hehehe
Ok I think I am looking at the right connector and found something I need to ask you about it. You will see in the pictures the connector I think you were talking about yet it is only a 6 plug connector with 5 wires. I had what looked like transmission fluid that dripped out of it (about 10 -12 drops). You can see there is some still in the pin side. I'm guessing that isn't supposed to be there. Does that mean I have something which needs changed and could this be causing my problems? I dabbed out the fluid and dried it the best I could and guessing I should clean with some denatured alcohol.
Please let me know what you think and which way I should head with this find. The wires looked good other than that, no chaffing, cracks or other issues.
I can't seem to attach the pictures. Is there another way to attach them or put them somewhere?
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