2003 dodge 1500 Sherod conversion van. Anti lock and brake light come on, on occassion (couple times a drive) Changed out rear differential fluid with anti lock additive. Replaced front left brake sensor (rusted out). Problem is now intermittent unlike before but still there. When braking on occassion I feel the antilock kick in and the pedal pulse on dry roads is this an indicator that the module is gone not the sensor? I am thinking if the front left sensor was rusted out (rusted magnetic probe actually missing) how is the front right and rear diffeential. However the pulse in the pedal may indicate it's a module controller????
Country: United StatesMake: DodgeModel: RAM 1500Year: 2003Engine: 5.2 L
Conversion Van. First it had a brake job last Fall. All brake pads including "E" brake new, all hardware new, rotors and wheelbearings new. Bearings correctly torques and rechecked after a hundred or so miles. Front left wheel sensor replaced due to rusted off magnetic tip, Rear end fluid changed 75 W 140 synthetic with anti lock additive. Haven't checked other wheel sensors because problem is intermittent now and pedal actually pulses on occassion leading me to wonder about the main module?
hi i'm billwelcome to just answerplease remember I am NOT there in front of you! my answers are based on your information.
the pulsing you are feeling is the abs module thinking the van has a wheel locked up and you may skid, this is an indication of a bad wheel speed sensor(garbage in garbage out, the computer is quite dumb and believes everything the sensors tell it) which one? well i would need to know what fault code is setting.
a scan tool with abs code reading is needed here, you can purchase one for around a couple of hundred dollars or go to auto zone or advanced auto and have them read the codes for you, but the best money spent is a pro with a good (expensive) scan tool that can actually read the data stream the abs module is seeing, but if you are determined to attempt a repair yourself the common sensor failure is the rear differential sensor AND pigtail harness,(remember without a fault code to go by this is just a guess) if the sensor is removed and it is damaged then the rear differential WILL need to be opened up to determine what damaged the sensor,if you have any front sensors on the front wheels look at the tone rings on the bearings if they are damaged the sensor cannot give the computer good info.
Not sure if was you with my Subaru but that answer helped a lot. This answer isn't very definative but as you state I need those codes. Everywhere I read it's the rear sensor on these vans but I knew the front left was rusted out. Replacing it made the light intermittent not solid. I also knew that I didn't open the brake bleeds and loosened the Mastercylinder fill cap then used a "C" clamp to compress each caliper before fitting new pads. The rotors are new all around so the tone wheels are good. I worried that forcing brake fluid through the Antilock system may have damaged it when I should have opened the bleeds. I doubt it did because it never did in the past. Your answer, although logical I agree is what I wanted to avoid (paying $40 - 60 to read codes). Advanced Auto and Auto Zone read engine codes but not brake codes. I'd bet their is liability involved in reading brake codes as opposed to engine light codes? Thanks anyway. If you get any other ideas let me know. I have to drop the money to get those codes read.
the abs system on the vans/pick up trucks is VERY VERY simple, and simple pad replacement won't force fluid into the abs system we only used the abs as an "add on" in the truck chassis most had only rear abs (rwal) few had 4 wheel abs.
i am sorry i cannot be more definite on the cause of the light BUT having been with chrysler corporation for 25 years i have learned (the hard way in my younger years) guessing gets very expensive fast.
BUT since you did say changing the l/f sensor did make a difference, i would pull the sensor and look at the tone ring for damage new rotors CAN have a bad ring never eliminate anything, also be sure the sensor is actually the correct one, there were more than 1 sensor part number used depending on what type od abs the van has.
i have had a bad run lately on defective parts, also pull the rear sensor and look at it for damage, maybe even replace it, look at the connector on the rear sensor it is prone to damage as well.
in any case spending the money on a scan tool for yourself may be money well spent if you do most of your own work as the vehicles get more sophisticated a scan tool is needed more and more a suggestion Innova makes a NICE line of scan tools at a good price the Equus 3150 reads engine and abs codes and is only 147.00 at walmart it is a good tool and sold for far more through the tool dealers,my dealer picked up one to do "free" code reading for our customers and for checking emissions status, might be worth looking into.
if you get the codes please reply back and i can be far more helpful and definitive.
It just hit me. That sensor went on after I hit a huge bump a year ago. The car started banging everytime I hit those Speed bumps after. I discovered and replaced a broken rear shackle to the left and all the way back mount on the leaf spring. I bet it crushed the wiring to the rear differential ABS or speed sensor? Old Bessy just passed the vehicle inspection 30 min ago. I almost hoped the ABS light would come on so we could scan it then and There. Has to be on to find the problem. These damn intermittent problems make you pull your hair out. Bessy will make a good trade with her valid inspection sticker once I catch that code! Thanks
the abs computer will store a code anytime it sees a fault and it will stay in memory until it is erased.
BUT the wiring does run up the emergency brake cables to teh frame rail so a good inspection of the harness around the frame is a great idea.
21 yrs in the field 19 with Dodge Chrysler Jeep,expert in electrical drivability
It was the right side ABS sensor gone. Had to go to a mechanic who put a code reader on and drove it for. $45. Another Mechanic wanted $90 to read it. The ABS sensor front right was $129. EBAY same manufacturer,new part was $48. Code reader also read a failing upstream O2 sensor. NAPA $48. EBAY same sensor new and same manufacturer name 19.95. Free shipping. I might start using ebay depending on how this works out.
be very careful of ebay some of the parts are counterfeit some are good i surf ebay often looking for parts for my cars.
just as a side note if you buy from a local dealer you can return the part easy but when you buy online returning often costs the return shipping and the replacement part making it cost as much as buying it locally,i had that issue with my wifes car with some struts she bought online when 1 went bad i had to return the old one and buy the replacement but eat the shipping back which made it cost as much as a local one.
but thats just my opinion