good morning, i have 2000 dodge durango 4x4 4.7L, i change gear oil, both rear & front, then also i change transmission fluid, including both filters, i put 6 litters ATF-4, but now the don't run reverse & forward, probably, whats wrong on it?
Make (other): 4x4
i sealed everything i open,
Hi, my name is Ed. Welcome to Just Answer!.If your fluid level measures close to being correct on the transmission dipstick... and you've used a little extra engine speed to lift fluid through the empty filters... I figure you have a leak at the point where the primary transmission filter fits to the trans case at the front.This transmission uses a metal and rubber seal (much like a crankshaft seal) to mate the trans filter neck to the case. If the seal is torn or lost as the old filter is removed, you may not have noticed and the result is loss of prime to the transmission hydraulic pump... it won't be able to draw fluid from the pan to engage its basic functions.I'm not sure if aftermarket filter kits are supplied with this critical seal, but Mopar does include one in its package. Check deeper in the box to see if a seal was included and escaped detection because it was lost in a cardboard fold or something. The seal is tapped in to the case with a hammer from below and can be done using a socket and extension of suitable size that places tapping forces on the outer metal portion of the seal. The old seal (if still in place) can be pried out using the levering action of a long screwdriver.There are few things I dislike more than having to remove a transmission pan that had just been reinstalled (and the RTV is still wet) but it appears this is where you're headed. =/Good luck,Ed
30-year Dodge/Chrysler exp., ASE Master with L1 certification. Driveability/ combustion specialist
ok try to open the pan, then thigthen the filters
The filter I'm concerned about is the one with the "swan's neck"... the flat one that bolts to the bottom of the valve body with a single screw. The point where the neck enters the transmission case holds a seal that may be dislodged or split. That's the one I'd expect to be giving you trouble, but it sure wouldn't hurt to check the pin-on filter as well.
hello ed, can i ask bout my, idle RPM,, w/ durango when i"m running 110kph then my RPM is 2000 jumping up & down, can you please check this out for me, what need be change or re-place,. thanks
I'd be suspicious of the throttle position sensor (TPS) output first for a problem like that. TPS rides directly on the throttle shaft of the throttle body (driver's side) and is used as one of the main inputs to the engine and transmission controllers. An erratic signal from the TPS can make engine idle speed flare at idle and even cause torque converter lock-unlock and shifting events to occur while driving at a steady speed. Locate the TPS, which will be the only 3-wire sensor in the area I described and will be secured to the throttle body with two #25 Torx head screws. Tapping on it lightly with a wrench with the engine at idle will often cause the signal to vary on a bad TPS which is one of the handier methods of determining whether you have problems there or not.If you wind up replacing it, pay attention to the way the old sensor comes off of its mounting... it kind of "unwinds". The new one needs to be rotated and turned to the horizontal position with spring pressure against its center shaft or the sensor will be broken when the throttle is opened. I believe you will drop the sensor onto the throttle body with the sensor turned to the left, then rotate clockwise. If not, it's the other way around.Good luck!Ed
hi, i"m sorry i"ve been from work 6-am to 10pm, yes last tuesday afternoon, i go home early then i buy those new parts, (idle air control valve/ motor) and throttle sensor, i replace it, set it up like the old ones, then i clean the throttle body wipe w/ clean cloth, but still thesame, when im running up-hill, it is more the RPM is getting jump like lossing and adding gas/ energy to the engine, if i step on gas with steady presure, the RPM is not stable ticking little bit, any idea boss,. good morning.
Do you feel like it's something related to the engine or more like the transmission? Do you have a CHECK ENGINE lamp illumination while driving?
yes, check engine lights on before, when i replace the (TPS ) and ( Idle control valve) check engine lamp off,........ and this morning its appeared again, how about when one of those spark plugs didnt work? engine sounds good, transmission good too... just when start stepping on gas getting run,, kmp is in 40- 60,... the RPM going to 2000 - 3500 engine sounds getting wild/ higher... boss i dont know what to do.
Let's check to see what that code is. Your vehicle supports a customer code-read feature which lets you pull codes without a scan tool by using this little chicken dance...
Roll the key from off to on three times, leaving the key ON after the last cycle. Watch the odometer for a change from km to codes expressed in P-code format, followed by "P-done" or simply "done" when completed whether any codes were shown or not.
Having a code stored can be a positive thing since it may point us in the right direction. Check it out and let me know what you find.
hello ed, have a good weekend, ed, i have some question bout' voyager 97, 3.0L, this van is easy to start before, then i have problem to the valve stem seals , its leaking oil going out side and its smeels oil burn, so i open up i removed neg-battery, then all sensor's... removed top portion of 1. engine throttle body. 2. fuel enjector inclding rail & sensor... i used air compressor to compressed the valve up., so i change all stem seals, 12 pcs, 6 new spark plugs, but re-install the old fuel enjector, i re-install very carefully, and i used silicon gasket to those i opened,,,, then now i can"t even start,,,, i noticed to the BRAKE & WHEEL so hard, so i can"t start the Engine,, ed,., i, hopefully you give me ur best answer,,,, thanks john,
Goood morning, John!Does the engine crank? By that I mean does the engine physically turn over with the starter?And where did you use the silicone gasket material exactly?
yes it starter and engine cranks ,, i use silicon 2 parts were between 1.engine coolant flows were 3x3 hole both side, near fuel enjector. 2.the top cover for throttle.
Thanks.I see you're working with another expert right now, so I'll opt out. If you continue having problems, be sure to let me know and we'll look into it together.Good luck!Ed
hello ed, sory this morning that guy ameede reply me just 3 times, re check my message, i been open the engine 2 times today, it will starts but 3 to 4 second, engine stops! if im going to press gas engine runs but big vibration on engine, when steps off on gas its stop,.
hi, if im planning to open cylinder head, pull out the base were the rocker arm spring together with valve base, can i that alone? ?? how many hours will make tht,.. i just wanted to make it sure if theres no coolant flows into the valve,.., or what is your best idea's, thanks and good night..
Does the engine run smooth for the first 3 or 4 seconds?Or is it rough the whole time?
hi ed good morning,,,, 4 sec bit smooth, stops like choking,, but when i step gas sounds rough, got vibration..
Is there a chance the firing order might be a bit mixed up? The 1-2-3-4-5-6 firing order of the 3.0 seems pretty fool-proof, but the distributor cap terminals are arranged oddly. Check the actual numbering of the cap terminal to the plug wire being connected.The rear cylinders are the odd-numbered ones, with #1 being the one closest to the alternator. The front bank is numbered the same in even-fashion with #2 being closest to the belts.Let me know if that helps and we'll continue if not...Ed
yup mm i did 135 rear 246 front, i change blue distributor w/ number last february,, so easy to set,, so ignition got one click...
or bout if im going to open cylinder head, or else become worst,???? if im going check it up might be got spill of coolant in thre. . probly how long time wi;l it takes?
If firing order is good (I expect it is), I'd have to wonder about the possibility of a valve coming out of its keeper or that a lash adjuster in one of the rocker arms came out. If you have a compression tester, check all 6 cylinders and compare the numbers you get.No tester? I use a method of compression testing that uses your ear... listen for a low cylinder as you crank the engine. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and ground it to disable the engine. Then just crank the engine while listening to the engine as it spins. If compression is equal, you'll have the same sound over and over, but if one hole is low on squeeze, that cylinder will offer less resistance to the starter and the engine will momentarily speed up as it goes past that one cylinder. I also have to wonder about the possibility of factory theft system activation on your 97 Voyager. While what you've described doesn't fit the description of a theft system event, I can't completely disregard the possibility.Theft activation will result in a 2-3 second engine start and then the engine will die. It will run smooth the whole time until it shuts off, but it seems like I may have been able to extend this short run period by paddling the accelerator at one time... not sure about that, though. Check to see if your fuel gauge is working. If the vehicle bus network is down for some reason, the OK-to-start message from the theft system won't be received at the PCM, which then activates theft. The only gauge that you can rely on for information on a cold engine would be the fuel gauge, which is why I mention checking it.