hello, have you scanned engine controller for any fault codes -- most likely failure would be the crank sensor--and when turning key on to start - does the check engine light come on?
No, i have no way of scanning, and yes the check engine light is on when i turn on and when cranking.
do you have a volt meter?
lets check the crank sensor for 5 volt supply and ground
this computer system and sensors are best tested when using a scan tool to see if we have computer fault codes
Tim , I see your drawings but where is this located under the hood?
Above or below the engine?
sorry--poor drawing -- under the hood into the engine block
I found the sensor, do you still want to check voltage and how?
I need to step out myself for about an hour. I will return, thanks
check each pin for voltage and then for ground and let me know what we have --
First, I can not remove the sensor harness. What's up with that?
I am out for about an hour
slide red locking wedge to be able to release the tab
won't budge, looks like it won't slide, what am i missing. Which way does it slide?
my chilton manuel says to raise the front end and support it on stands. Do i need to do this.
also found the cmp sensor in the manuel. Says nothing about the lock wedge. But i do see it. I have now broken the tab off the electrical connector...I am a tool and die maker/machinist, with some electrical background. Not helping me here.
I don't mean you are not helping, I mean with all my background and common sence, i broke off the tab.
it is easier to access from underneath -- and lock wedge slides sideways -- if you look at tab you will see it is s wedge-- if it will not come apart that is a sign of corrosion-- and a bad sensor also
don't woory about the locking wedge if you break it -- -- the connector can be replaced
I was able to slide the clip downward only about 3/16", does it slide completely out?
ok-- with key on test for power and grounds
Ground 1 = 5 v 2 = 0 v 3 = 5 v Voltage 1 - 2 = 5 v 1- 3 = 0 v 2 - 3 = 5 v
Have you done an engine compression test yet?
can you do that -- before we go any further
I would also like to get fault codes out of the computer
Your over my head now, i would have to tow car to repair station and have them doit. Ddi the sensor checked ok?
try this -- put key in switch(door closed) turn key on and off 3 times -- do not crank on engine when doing this -- 3rd time leave on and look at odometer and see if it displays fault codes
sensor is border line
try to see if we can get fault code?
by the key method
engine malfunction light, the second one is not in my manuel but has this: )Z( The Z represents a flash signal that is in between. The flash runs top to bottom and not sideways, only 1 flash between the marks.
THAT IS JUST THE THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT --- WE NEED TO LOOK AT DIGITAL ODOMETER DISPLAY AFTER KEY CYCLES
I cranked and cranked, it wanted to start a few times and finally cranked long enough and motor finally started. My battery is factory and it's a wonder it started. I didn't crank long enough to heat up starter or cause a problem, but what's going on? I don't know if it will restart, I'm letting it run for a while?
at this point -- just let it run-- are the spark plugs original? how many miles on the car?
after about 15 minutes -- shut it off and see if it retarts without issue
possible it could have loaded up--
if it restarts fine-- I would take it to have computer scanned
motor runs and at low idle it's missing out. I've started and restarted several times. No warning lights appear.
I'm hesitant to drive it now until someone can follow me if something happens.
i have 130,000 miles and not sure when spark plugs were changed last
Sounds like it needs to go for a check-up
correct-- old spark plugs can cause this to - if we do not have any fault codes =-- it would not hurt to throw a new set of plugs in it
Are the plugs hard to change for a person like myself, or would qualified tech do it
what does the sensor do
Appreciate your help, wished we could of fixed her.