Hello and welcome to JustAnswer!
How did you check for power at the coil? With the key turned on or with the engine cranking?
If you turn the key on do the fuel gauge and voltmeter work or do they stay down?
Have you checked all fuses?
Have you checked for fault codes?
Do you have a test light to do some electrical testing?
Make sure anything that was unplugged for testing is plugged back in. Unplug one of the fuel injectors and find the dark green/orange wire. Ground the alligator clip of your test light and use the probe end of the test light on the dark green/orange wire. This wire should power up for one second when the key is first turned on. See if it does power up for this one second.
Now unplug the coil and find the dark green/orange wire. Do the same test there.
Now go back to the dark green/orange wire at the injector, crank the engine and see if it powers up the whole time you are cranking.
no power while cranking
How did this problem start? Did it die while driving? Did it not start one morning?
Did it start after doing any work?
Where did the replacement cam and crank sensors come from?
Have you checked for fault codes since this problem started?
Let's start fresh and recheck for codes. I'd expect this problem to have set a code. Plug everything back in that's unplugged, use your code reader to clear codes or disconnect the battery for a minute. Then give the starter a good 10 second crank without letting up. After that recheck for codes and see if you get anything else.
Where did you buy the cam and crank sensors?
Ok, so you replaced the entire distributor?
Did you index it? If it's not correctly indexed that would explain the problem/
Within 1/8" isn't close enough. It needs to be indexed within 5 degrees of perfect top dead center. If it's off far enough then it isn't going to run because it will think the engine is out of time.
Indexing the distributor can be done with a DRBIII scan tool or with a digital voltmeter. If you have an accurate digital voltmeter and a ratchet with a 1 1/4" socket to turn the engine at the crank damper we can index the distributor.
Start by turning the crank damper and lining up the marks. Turn the damper clockwise only. If you go past the mark you'll have to back the damper way up and then come back to the mark turning clockwise. This keeps timing chain slack on the left side of the chain and not between the crank and cam. Turn the damper until the V8 XXXXX XXXXXnes up with the 0 degree mark on the timing cover.
Then remove the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointing at the number 1 mark on the pickup plate. If it's pointing 180 degrees from there turn the crankshaft one revolution clockwise and then the rotor will point to number one.
Then ground the black lead of your meter and set the meter to 20v DC. Straighten a paperclip and insert it into the back side of the pickup plate connector on the tan/yellow wire. Attach the red lead of your meter to the paperclip.
Loosen the distributor hold down bolt. Gently turn the distributor very slowly in one direction or the other while watching the meter. Make sure to not turn the distributor more than a 1/8" or so in either direction. Watch for the point where the voltmeter toggles from 0-5v, or from 5v to 0. Gently turn the distributor in each direction until you find the exact point where the voltmeter is switching back and forth, and then lock the distributor down, reinstall the distributor cap, and see if the engine starts.
Unplug the pickup plate connector. Make sure you have 5v on the tan/yellow, 5v on the other outside wire in the connector, which I believe is orange. Then check the resistance to ground on the black/light blue wire in the center of the connector. If these are ok, remove the pickup plate and make sure the tone wheel that runs under the pickup plate is there. If all of this checks out ok then the pickup plate is bad. You'll want to replace it with only a Mopar part. Aftermarket cam and crank sensors aren't recommended for use in Chrysler products because of the problems they cause. They are known to cause hard starting, missing, and even a no-start problem, even brand new and right out of the box.
Violet/white is correct for the third wire. It should have 5v with the key turned on and the sensor unplugged. Double check that to make sure.
If it's really at 0v then unplug the crank sensor and check the voltage on the violet/white wire there and let me know what you find.
None of them have "power". The violet/white wire is the 5v reference wire. The black/light blue wire is the sensor ground, and the tan/yellow is the signal wire.
i have 5v on the reference wire & the sensor grd is good there is nothing on the signal
wire with key on or cranking on either sensor
So to recap-
-You have 5v on the violet/white wire with the key on and sensor unplugged.
-You have 16 ohms to ground on the black/light blue wire.
-With the sensor unplugged and the key turned on you have 5v on the tan/yellow wire.
Is this correct?
Violet/white has no power
black/light blue do have 16 ohms
and i have 5 volts on the tan/yellow when sensor is unplugged and key is on.
So have you unplugged the crank sensor and checked for 5v on the violet/white wire there yet? That's where we left off a couple hours ago.
Now let's unplug the MAP sensor on the front of the throttle body, and the throttle positions sensor on the left side of the throttle body. Check the violet/white wire on each one of these and see if they are also 0v.
Now unplug the transmission 8 way connector. This will be a black connector that you'll find just behind where the shift linkage goes into the trans. Take a very close look for any bare wires in this connector. Unplug it and then recheck the voltage on the violet/white wire.
If it's still down then unplug the intake air temperature sensor connector on the intake, and then unplug the coolant sensor. Recheck the violet/white wire after unplugging each of these sensors.
Leave everything unplugged - cam, crank, trans, etc. You'll also want to unplug the powertrain control module (PCM) connectors. This is the silver module under the hood with the three 32-way connectors. Then check for a short to ground on the violet/white wire. The wire shouldn't be shorted - if it is shorted it will take down the 5v reference.
The same way you checked the black/light blue wire for ground. Leave the black meter lead on ground, set the meter to 200 ohms. Use the red lead to probe the violet/white and read the resistance to ground on the meter. It should show an open circuit unless the wire is shorted to ground.
Great. That tells us that there isn't a problem in the wiring harness, and we've ruled out the possibility of a shorted sensor.
The problem is that the PCM isn't sending out a 5v reference voltage to any of the sensors. The cam, crank, MAP and TPS sensors all use the same 5v reference circuit to work, and the PCM isn't sending this to them. That's the cause of the starting problem and the cause of the TPS code that you had set. Since the circuit isn't shorted to ground we know that the problem isn't external, and is in the PCM. The PCM is going to need to be replaced. After it's replaced and the 5v circuit is up and running then you'll need to go back through the distributor sync procedure I sent earlier today.