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sprinkles08
sprinkles08, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep master tech
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 16878
Experience:  ASE Master and Advanced Certified, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep Master Certified, Trans and Hybrid Specialist
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Dodge Neon SXT I need to replace my bushings on my 2005 Dodge

Customer Question

I need to replace my bushings on my 2005 Dodge Neon. I need some instructions on how to do that please!
Submitted: 3 years ago.
Category: Dodge
Expert:  Dodge expert replied 3 years ago.
Welcome to just answer.com. I'm here to help you and your 100% satisfaction is my goal. Which bushings are you speaking of?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Lower control arm bushings. Sorry, didn't know there were others!
Expert:  Dodge expert replied 3 years ago.
Unfortunately the control arm bushings only, as part of the lower control arms you'll have to buy the control arm in bushing as an assembly
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
You can't replace just the bushings?
Expert:  Dodge expert replied 3 years ago.

No they are part of the lower control arm in a leaking be purchased with the control arm itself

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Relist: Answer quality.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.

Hello and welcome to JustAnswer!

 

You can replace the lower control arm bushings, and they are a very common failure on the PT Cruiser and Neons. Replacing the lower control arm has never been necessary. The part number for the bushings is(NNN) NNN-NNNNC and they run $42 each.

 

The first step to replacing the bushings is removing the control arms. To do this you will need to remove the bolt that holds them to the subframe in the front, the large bolt that holds them in the rear. You will need to remove the bolt holding the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle and separate the ball joint. You will need to remove the sway bar links from the control arms.

 

I find it beneficial to remove the strut clevis bolts that hold the steering knuckle to the strut. This will allow you to pick up on the knuckle and remove/install the ball joint into the bottom of the knuckle easier.

 

Once the control arms are out you will need a few special tools to remove the bushings from the control arms. These include adapters to adapt a ball joint press to the bushings to press them in and out. You may also be able to take the control arms and the bushings to a machine shop and have them press them in and out.

 

The Miller special tools to press the joints in and out are 8373-1, C-4212F (ball joint press), 8373-2, and 6760.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I need to replace the vertical ones. Correct me if I'm wrong these are the ones directly bolted up into the frame correct? How do I specifically change these out? I hear you can heat them up and remove the old rubber, yadda yadda.. I need a rather detailed answer if you don't mind. Thank you much so far!
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.

These are the ones in the rear of the control arm, the ones that mount the rear of the arm to the subframe. These are the bushings that are replaced on a very regular basis.

 

You can't heat the old bushings up and remove the rubber. The rubber is bonded to the metal outer shell of the bushing and the entire bushing has to be replaced. The failure of these bushings always comes from the bubber ripping out of the metal shell. The bushings have to be pressed out and in with tools and a ball joint press.

 

Raise and support the car.

Remove the tires.

Remove both sway bar links. Hold the nut on top with Vice Grips and remove them by loosening the 15mm bolt on the bottom of the link. Once both are removed then you can swing the sway bar down and remove the rest of the link bushings.

Remove the bolt and nut that hold the ball joint into the steering knuckle.

Separate the ball joint from the knuckle.

 

On the right side you will have to remove the lower torque strut to get to one control arm bolt. Remove the two bolts that hold the torque strut at each end, one at the subframe and one near the oil pan.

 

Remove the control arm bolts. There is one that goes into the subframe horizontally at the front, and one that goes in vertically at the rear.

 

Remove the control arm.

 

Install the remover/receiver, special tool 8373-1, into the cup of the ball joint press and tighten the set screw. Install the remover driver, special tool 8373-2, on the tip of the ball joint press screw.

 

Place the lower control arm outer flange against the receiver. Tighten the screw on the press until the driver contacts the outer circumference of the bushing. Continue to tighten the screw until the bushing is pressed completely out of the lower control arm. Remove all tools.

 

Start the new bushing in the lower control arm by hand. Position the bushing so the voids in the rubber are aligned in relationship to the ball joint. The gap in the rubber needs to point toward the ball joint.

 

Install the receiver, special tool 6760, on the tip of the ball joint press screw.

 

Place the lower control arm flange against the cup area of the ball joint press and tighten the screw until the receiver contacts the outer circumference of the bushing. Slowly tighten the screw until the bushing bottoms out in the lower control arm bushing bore.

 

Remove all tools.

 

Reinstall the lower control arm in the car and perform an alignment.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
If I rented a ball joint press from Autzone or Advanced Auto Parts do you think they'll have the correct size for my bushings?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.
The ball joint press will very likely be the right size to accept the tools needed to press the bushings in and out. The tools should fit in any standard ball joint press.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Does this metal sheet you mention need to be reused? Or are the bushings I buy going to have everything I need?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.
The metal sleeve? That sleeve is part of the bushing. When these bushings fail it's because the rubber breaks free of the sleeve. The rubber and the metal sleeve are all one part, the part number I gave is for the complete bushing assembly and is the only thing that you will need.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Will I be able to reply to this after I accept? You've been a huge help! I'll accept now if I can continue to chat with ya. I'm going to do this tomorrow and hopefully all goes well. But if not (which is my luck) I'd like a chance to get another question in if I need one.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.
Yes, you can come back and reply to this question at any time if you need more help. Accepting does not cut off communication. Good luck with it!
sprinkles08, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep master tech
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 16878
Experience: ASE Master and Advanced Certified, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep Master Certified, Trans and Hybrid Specialist
sprinkles08 and 2 other Dodge Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Any tips on the lower torque strut coming out? Doesn't that thing support the engine weight?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.
No, the torque strut doesn't support the engine weight, the motor mount does. The torque struts control engine fore/aft movement. To remove the torque strut just remove the bolts at either end. When you put it back together you'll need to start one bolt and then use a prybar to move the engine in one direction or the other to line the second bolt up.

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