this engine is non- interference on its dual cams so you shouldnt have any problems unless the cams themselves rotated independently of each other which is very rare as when the belt breaks the cams shouldnt turn anymore .
Here are directions to replace the belt yourself:
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do you have a floorjack? if not, is there a Autozone or Discount Auto Parts nearby?
I think I'll be able to get access to the hobby shop here on base, if so, I should be ok. If not, the only reason I'd need the floor jack would be to support the engine when I remove the motor mount in order to get to the lower timing belt cover and the crankshaft damper, correct?
Of course this is the one time I'm traveling without my jack and all of my tools, but I do have a fairly decent socket set with me, so hopefully nothing is torqued or rusted so tight so as to need an impact wrench or driver.
on setting the timing, rotate the cams towards the center of the engine until they are aligned as shown in the diagrams. When facing the sprockets, you will turn the one on your left clockwise and the one on your right counterclockwise. rotate the crank clockwise until aligned. If it catches and doesnt rotate further, then you do have a bent valve, but I have done many of these and it is rare that I encounter a bent valve on this engine
Hate to keep bugging you with questions, but as I'm looking at the diagram, both cams look like they'd turn counterclockwise as the belt drives them. Wouldn't it be better to rotate them both counterclockwise to align them instead of counter rotating them? And by the way, I will accept your answer when we're all done. If nothing else, the diagrams provided are worth it. Thanks again for whatever more help you can give me.
Although they both turn in the same direction when running, when the belt breaks, in order to prevent the valves from hitting the pistons the manufacturer says to turn them towards the center of the engine as this is the least amount of rotation needed to set them.
And no problem on the questions. it is what we are here for
No, you wont need a cheater bar for moving them. Hand pressure with a normal ratchet(maybe 20-30lbs of torque) is all that is needed. I have used just a 3/8" ratchet to turn them
The reason it is recommended is simply because you have everything off and water pump is right there. And the prevailing thinking is that it has same wear as rest of engine and if higher mileage it will save you from repeating this down the road if it were to fail. But there is no danger of damaging it during the timing belt repair or damage due to the belt breaking.
i will be offline from 2-4pm, but will be back online after that in case you run into any issues on this
Any suggestions on how to break loose the bolt on the damper on the crankshaft? It's just me there working so I can't jam something on the bolt and crank the engine very easily. I managed to get a friend to take me to a parts store and get a floor jack and jack stands (and a creeper too, which I have been needing/wanting for awhile) but he had to leave so I'm stuck at trying to remove the crankshaft damper. All else is going per the diagrams.
Do you have a cheater bar to piut on it. if so place socket and cheater bar on pulley, place cheater bar where it will hit the frame and rank engine over. this will bust the bolt loose as it is stopped on the frame and engine continues to turn.
Ok, in a pinch, I have taken my ratchet with me to a hardware store and bought a 5' length of pipe that the ratchet end will slide into.
And much cheaper than a true breaker bar.
I understand. I will be here tommorrow to continue to help you. i will stick with you until we get it running
I just don't seem to be able to catch a break. I got a half inch drive breaker bar and socket, set it up and bumped the engine, and the bolt broke loose which was good. I had a steering wheel/ gear puller with me, but it turns out that Chrsyler/Mitsubishi in their infinite wisdom requires a special tool to pull the crankshaft damper. Again, luckily the loca lAuto Zone had one and they rent them so I didn't have to buy it for $70. I get the damper pulled off and everything else but the engine mount pulled off with no problem. The bolts on the motor mount however simply did not want to break loose. By this time, my co-worker had left for the day, so I got no ride to get anything else. I finally manage to break one of the bolts loose, and pull it all the way out. I then took the breaker bar and used it to pry the motor mount in the direction that the still remaining bolt would have to turn to break loose, and it still didn't move. About that time, it started raining, so I have quit again for the night. So, but for one stubborn bolt, I could have had the new belt in place and perhaps even have had everything back together and be in business. Instead I get another miserable night with no transportation. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get ahold of something which will give me a little bit more oomph and I'll break that last bolt loose and this saga may finally come to a happy ending. I'll let you know.
sorry for all the problems you are encountering. seems like you are getting hit with all the problems one could encounter on a repair all at once. if you run into anything else that is a problem let me know
Well, yes, I did run into one (hopefully final) problem this afternoon. After getting all the bolts loose and removing all the covers, I need to find a way to set the crankshaft timing. The battery is too low to turn the engine now (my fault because I had to charge my cell phone) so I thought I might put the bolt back into the crankshaft, turn it to where I need it, then remove the bolt. Problem is is that when ever I get the crank to TDC, I can't loosen the bolt without moving the crankshaft. I thought about putting a nut on the bolt and tightening it up and the turning the crankshaft using the bolt, but the bolt is not threaded far enough up to put a nut on it and work that way. So tomorrow, I'll just go buy a longer bolt and nut and work it that way. If all goes well (HA!!), I may be able to have it done before noon, but the vehicle is out in the open and it's supposed to rain some more. At this point, I'll find a trash bag and wear it as a raincoat in order to get finished. I completely understand why shop rates are so high now. With the right tools (which are relatively expensive, I believe this could have been about a 4 hour job. I like the experience I've gained as well, but I doubt I'll do this again unless I'm at home in my garage with an extra car running so I can go and get whatever parts I need whenever I need them. I'll keep you posted tomorrow.
BTW, just wanted to get back and let you know, the van is running fine, and while under there I noticed oil around the filter, and realized that wherever I had the oil changed last, they hadn't snugged up the filter very well, so it wasn't making reall good contact with the gasket and oil was leaking by. I hand tightened it, and my slow oil leak magically disappeared. I drove from Philadelphia to New Orleans and back and didn't use a drop of oil. Thanks again for your help. If I run into anything else I'm not familiar with, I'll be sure to ask you again.