Dodge Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Good evening. I can definitely help you out with this...
The first thing you're going to need to do is if it is a sto and go, simply fold the seats down in the floor.
If it's traditional seats you will need to get the backseat out of your way.
Next, it's kind of like playing with Legos.
What I need you to do is remove all the interior trim in the right rear.
When you open the rear gate, remove the piece of trim that runs along the floor that was left to right.
Remove the top piece of trim that goes left or right.
You need to remove the mounting bolts for the two right side seatbelts, I believe only the top bolts must be removed.
On the plastic trim panel in the right rear you can see the hole where the speaker is mounted., You need to remove that trim piece that covers the speaker. Underneath of that I believe you'll find about eight screws you need to remove all the screws. Once the screws are out you can slowly start pulling the trim panel away from the inside of the right rear..
once the trim panels out you will find that the blower motor is beneath it..
please let me know how it's going and what other price I can get.Thanks, Josh
That's no problem.
I'll be here to finish it. I have probably done around 30 rear evaporator cores on these vans..
I will let you know straight up, I work Monday through Friday 7 to 5 other than that I'll be here to help you finish it.
You may be able to access the blower motor without removing the air conditioning lines. We're going to see if we can work around it.
Now you'll see if you get underneath in the right rear next to the air conditioning lines there is one bolt comes to the floor from the heater box that I believe has a 10 mm nut on it.
You need to loosen that in what normally happens is that it spins the stud out of the heater box.. that is okay..
at the backside of the heater box you'll see ductwork that goes up into the roof, you can just slide that ductwork upwards so it is out of the way.
Now I believe there are three more bolts that secure the entire heater box to the inside of the van.
Remove these bolts and this will allow the heater box to tip towards you.
Now with the heater box tipped towards you, I need you to check to see if there is enough room to pull the blower motor out. It will be tight, the box is not going to tip very far with the air conditioning lines still connected by think it may be enough to sneak the blower motor out...
Please let me know...... thanks, Josh
Thanks Josh - I removed the obvious 2-3 bolts mouonting the plastic HVAC structure to the side of the van and started to try to separate the top from the botom of the heater box (so as to leave the expansion coil in-place and deal with the air handlinig part). But after removing a few 8MM screws and clips I started to get the feeling It was not going to happen, so came back to the computer. BTW my cell is XXX-XXX-XXXX - I'm happy to pay just want to advance the project a painlessly as possible.
I saw two bolts undernieth the car under the heater box and will loosen them in an attmempt to tilt the box. Back in a few - call if ya want/can.
We'll let me know how it works out once you get those two bolts out of your way. I just couldn't remember whether it was one or two bolts. You remember how it is, you just keep going nuts and bolts off until the pieces come out LOL...
As you can see in your post above any time you put in a longer sequence of numbers the website automatically changes it to a long series of xxxxxxxxxxxx's
There's no reason to rush into paying me, I'm really not worried about it, I'm sure you'll take care of me...
That does not completely surprise me. It is very common when you remove a blower motor for it to come back to life.
Quite often just moving an electric motor around will cause it to begin working again.
What I would like to have you do is with the help of assistant plug the electrical connections back in in the back and also plug in a blower motor. You can hold the blower motor in your hand and have your assistant turn the key on and then turn the rear blower on and see if it works.If it does work than that just proves that the motor is the cause of the failure and that must be replaced.If it does not work please let me know and I will need you to have a multimeter ready and we'll figure out for sure what the world is going on...
Man, this one is just sending you all over is isn't it..LOL...
well we at least now know that the blower motor is indeed bad. Now on to the next.
What I need you to do is to unplug the blower motor resistor for the rear blower motor and with the rear blower switch in a high position, I need you to check for ground on the dark blue wire with the brown tracer.
If you have ground on this wire, the resistor is bad
Another test that you could do is of the blower motor on the floor, switch in the high position, you can jump a ground to that same dark blue wire. If the motor doesn't spin, the resistor is bad..
Okay, well , . . . I turned on the ingnition and put the rear blower control on high. I pulled the connector off the rear blower box (assume this is the resistor) saw two (big) darkish blue wires, one with an orange stripe and one with a brown possibly black stripe. I found voltage on the blue/orange wire and continuity with gound on the bluee/black wire.
The second test do you mean for me to plug the connector into the box and jump arouond back to ground or perform the test with the connector off?
Sorry for the delay. I'm a complete message typed up an Internet Explorer locked up on me.. gotta love Microsoft...
Okay anyway back to business...
I believe the electrical connector that you disconnected was to a blend air door. I am sending over the electrical semantic of the wiring for the rear heater. You will see the three wires going into the blower motor resistor. All the switch does is supply the ground path to the resistor. Fuse power stays constant on the power supply line to the blower motor..
You want to test the dark blue wire with the brown tracer for a ground when the switch is in a high position. You can test it with the connector plug-in or unplugged it will not matter.
The second test that I was talking about would be to simply connect a jumper wire in between a chassis ground and touch it to the dark blue wire with the brown tracer with a connector still connected to the resistor..
The light blue wire coming out of the resistor is connecting to the blower motor.
Please let me know what you find. Thanks, Josh
Thats no problem..I'm just glad to have answers...!!!
Have a great night....Thanks, Josh
Please let me know if you need any help further down the road...