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Doug in North Carolina
Doug in North Carolina, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 302
Experience:  ASE Master Mechanic, 12 Years Experience Specializing in HVAC, Electrical and Driveability Problems.
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My egr valve (engine light) on my 2007 dodge ram 5.7L went

Customer Question

My egr valve (engine light) on my 2007 dodge ram 5.7L went a few months ago. I took it to the dealer, and he said it would be a $400 fix. Anyways, I didnt fix it at the time and it reset itself and the engine light went off, Until a week or so ago. I was away on business, and otw home my gas mileage dropped, and it was sluggish again. Im 100% sure its the egr again. I see that an egr for my truck is only 40-50$ online. I have tools and a half decent mechanical aptitude, can I save a bunch of dough and replace it myself? Ive also seen people recommending pulling it off and cleaning it with brake parts cleaner, should I try that? Where is it on my engine?

Any pointers or things I should watch for?
Submitted: 6 years ago.
Category: Dodge
Expert:  Doug in North Carolina replied 6 years ago.

Thanks for using Just Answer, my name is Doug.


The EGR valve is relatively easy to access on your truck. However, before you replace it I would recomend finding out what the code is for sure. While the EGR code was what came on last time and it can cause poor fuel economy, I would hate to help you replace a part that was not the cause of your problem you're facing now.


Some models allow you to access trouble codes by turning the key on, off, on, off, on (leave on now) and the code will be displayed in place of the mileage. If you have a moment to verify this works on your model, I can help you with the replacement and suggestions that you've asked for.




Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Hey cool! It worked... it said P 1404...does that help?
Expert:  Doug in North Carolina replied 6 years ago.

Great, yes it does help.


P1404 is defined as an EGR valve position sensor malfunction.


The possible causes for this are the EGR valve, wiring or the computer. While there are other codes that relate to an EGR valve which would indicate a flow issue (cleaning passages like you were hoping to do help with flow issues), the code you have appears to be electrical in nature and not related to flow.


Both flow and electrical failures of the EGR valve will result in a Check Engine Light (CEL) as well as poor performance/poor fuel economy.


Were you looking to do any trouble shooting with this? For your answer and follow up support I can provide technical assistance.


If you simply would like to know how to replace the valve and where it is then I can provide that information instead.


Please let me know how you'd like to proceed.



Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Yeah, Id like to do some troubleshooting...
Expert:  Doug in North Carolina replied 6 years ago.

OK, do you have a multimeter? And if so, what is the model number and how familiar are you with it? If you don't have one, would you be willing to go buy one? They are usually less than $30.00.


Customer: replied 6 years ago.
I dont have one handy...I will get one in the morning. I am pretty darn familiar with electrical stuff though, I am a certified journeyman instrumentation electrician (havent worked in the trade for 10 years though) Can you just give me the steps you want me to perform and I'll get back to you with the results asap? Im not exactly sure where the egr is on my truck though.
Expert:  Doug in North Carolina replied 6 years ago.

The EGR valve is located on the front of the engine, just behind the altenator on the "right" cylinder head. Right is as seen from sitting in the driver's seat. There should be a tube going to it held on by 2x 8mm bolts and the valve itself is usually held on by 2x 10mm bolts. According to the factory service manual, you can remove it without taking anything else off. I've yet to replace an EGR valve on a hemi motor yet (I've been at an independent shop for a while, no longer at the dealer) but I do know in other applications they CLAIM it will just come right off but in actuallity, other components have to be moved first.


The valve looks like a small coke can. It will have a 5 wire connector on the top and bolt to the head on the bottom. If you've searched online for replacement valves then you'll probably recognize it once you see it.


The electrical connector will have 5 wires in it. The following information is based on the ignition switch being in the "on" position with the engine running or not.


--Dark Blue/Dark Green is the sensor ground, DO NOT use a test light to check this, only a multimeter.


--Dark Blue/Violet is the EGR solenoid Control. This should have power on it when the EGR valve is being commanded on. Without a scan tool to actuate the EGR valve, you won't be able to verify this.


--Black/White is the ground for the Control circuit. It appears to go to a chassis ground so you may use a test light (clamped to battery positive) to verify this wire.


--Yellow/Pink is the 5 volt supply wire. You should see 5 volts on it all the time.


--Dark Blue/Light Green is the EGR signal wire. With the sensor unplugged, this will show 5 volts. The computer puts out 5 volts on this wire to check to see if the sensor is unplugged. Once the connector is plugged in then the 5 volts drops down to whatever the signal voltage should be based on EGR valve position, you may be able to remove the valve from the head, plug the valve back in and move the small plunger by hand and watch for a voltage change on this wire. I've not done this before but logic would suggest that a functioning valve would report a voltage change. It's possible that your old one won't report a voltage change and that's precisely why you are having problems with it in the first place.


Let me know if you need additional assistance.



Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Hey, thanks for all of your help so far...I cannot get the damn plug off. I pulled the red tab out, and ive been wiggling it like carazy and it wont hardly budge...any tips?
Expert:  Doug in North Carolina replied 6 years ago.
The red tab is supposed to just slide to the side. Once it's slid over (or removed) then you will need to squeeze on the back side (wire exit side) to release the second latch. If you take a 90 degree pick to the EGR side of the connector you can go in and lift up on the front of the latch while you squeeze down on the back side.
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Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Yeah....the valve is fubar...I replaced it and everything seems fine now...thanks man! I really appreciate it
Expert:  Doug in North Carolina replied 6 years ago.

Great. Thanks for the accept and the update. Let me know if you need any assistance in the future.


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