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Dodgerench, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 3385
Experience:  30+ years Dodge/Chrysler exp., ASE Master with L1 certification. Driveability/ combustion specialist
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2000 Durango: the P0320 code and i replaced the crankshaft sensor

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I have a 2000 Durango. I got the P0320 code and i replaced the crankshaft sensor with a new one. My truck was running flawlessly the rest of the day after i replaced the sensor. Today, it started acting up again as i was on the highway, same viloent jerks and shudders. Is there something else i need to replace?
HiCustomer welcome to Just Answer!.

Did it set the same code again?

In case you don't have a scan tool, you can check codes without one by rolling the key from off to on three times, leaving it on and watching the odometer window for code display. "P-done" will be shown when done, indicating the successful run of the code-read feature whether any codes were shown or not.

Talk shortly,
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Yes. I used the key turn method and it is displaying the same code again. P 0320
Thanks. A couple of things come to mind.

The cam and crank sensors share a common power source from your engine controller, the PCM. I've seen multiple instances where one sensor will short the power feed, which will effectively kill both sensors, but the PCM picks the wrong one as the trouble source. The same thing would apply to an external source that shorts the 5v feed, but it's a pretty rare thing with the 4.7 engine and the RFE transmission.

Another thing I've seen happen only on the 2000 model Durangos with the 4.7 is a harness short behind the engine where an HVAC protruding stud can become buried in the engine loom, shorting the crank signal to ground. I'd expect most of these early run units to have been sorted out by now, but it's still something to consider since you've had a repeat P0320 code set.

This location is hard to see, requiring some mirror use from above or crawling under the truck to get a better look. Follow the wiring harness as it comes across the engine toward the passenger side, looking almost straight up in the exhaust area in the gap between the bulkhead and engine. Use a long pry bar to move the harness around a bit and you may be able to spot a 1/4" stud in the area. Manipulating the harness with the engine idling may even inspire the problem to show itself.

Last, while I haven't seen it happen on the 4.7 engine, aftermarket cam and crank sensors can produce a dirty signal that the PCM may not like. I'd read about it in some forums and really never believed it completely until I had a couple instances of this type of thing in person at the shop. If you used an aftermarket crank sensor...... I can't rule the sensor itself out at this point.

One thing you can do as a test is to disconnect the crank sensor completely and go for a ride if the problem is expected to happen at a certain engine temperature or speed. This system will allow the engine to run on cam signal alone, so if you find the engine to run fine for days at a time without a crank sensor, we can rule the cam sensor out.

It works the other way as well, of course. If the engine continues to act up with only a cam signal, we can assume it's got problems... which certainly does happen.

The engine won't start as quickly as with both sensors, requiring about 5-6 seconds of continuous starter operation before the PCM switches to Plan B... no cam signal.

Your rev limiter will kick in considerably lower, right around 2500 to 3000 RPM and transmission shift strategies may be altered to take advantage of the reduced engine speed range you'll have at the time. Other than that, it should run pretty much as usual.

Let me know if you have any questions or problems! I'll be glad to help.

Dodgerench and 7 other Dodge Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Is this a repair that me and a buddy who has a pretty good mechanical knowledge and skills can do? I'm on a tight budget and can't really afford to take it to a shop unless absolutely necesarry. Thanks for your detailed response.
On the chance that you do find something stuck into the engine harness, THAT will be a tough fix. The body pretty much has to be lifted on the right side to gain access to fix the wire scrape, but just being able to pull the loom off the stud should buy you considerable time. It's not good to leave a sensitive circuit like the crank sensor signal wire open forever thanks to the effects of road salt that can either short the signal or rot the wire from the inside out. I'm a big fan of Liquid Electrical Tape, a sealant that you can get in the Bix Box hardware stores. It comes in a metal can with a screw-top lid and has a brush attached for application to small wire wounds like this. The stuff dries pretty fast and makes a repair that's almost as tough as the original wire insulation. Since all that matters is that it gets covered (and nobody's gonna see the repair), there's no need to be dainty with the application. Slop away!

After that, things become quite a bit easier. Your cam sensor is actually easier to replace than the crank if it comes to that, being located on the passenger side camshaft at the front of the engine. It faces almost straight down and is another 3 wire sensor like the crank. It's held in place by a single 10mm hex bolt and pulls straight out.

Be aware that there MAY be a shim attached to this sensor if it was an early production unit because the factory started out using these shims to get the perfect gap between the cam gear and sensor until they got their machinery dialed in. You'll need to transfer this to the new sensor.

Don't forget to write if you have any questions... this thread will be open for as long as we need it.

Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Great. Thanks again. This is an awesome service you and this site offer. I'll definitely work with you again if i need it.
You're welcome!