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ASEMaster35yrs
ASEMaster35yrs, Dodge Technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 2029
Experience:  ASE Certified since 1972,Master Auto tech,Heavy Truck,dodge dealer Tech
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1998 ram 1500: a digram of drum brakes to change the wheel cylinder

Customer Question

how can i get a digram of drum brakes to change the wheel cylinder of a 1998 ram 1500 4 wd
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: Dodge
Expert:  Ron Z. replied 4 years ago.

REMOVAL

graphic

  1. Raise vehicle and remove tire and wheel assembly.
  2. Remove brake drum
  3. Lift adjuster lever away from adjuster screw. Then turn screw star wheel until screw is fully retracted.
  4. Remove brake shoe return springs, adjuster spring and adjuster screw. Move upper ends of brake shoes apart to provide removal clearance for wheel cylinder links.
  5. Disconnect brake line from wheel cylinder.
  6. Remove wheel cylinder attaching screws and remove cylinder from support plate
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
thank you so much but if we have any more ?s do we have to pay agian. he said the front bleeders is messed up what would be the easiest way to bleed them and can you do it from the lines
Expert:  Ron Z. replied 4 years ago.
If you have more questions, you can replay back to this thread, and you wont have to pay again. (as long as its related to this general vehicle/job) If one of the bleeders is messed up, i suggest heating it up nicely, then splash it with very cold water. Then use a pair of vise grips to get it open. Once you get the bleeder loose, remove it and replace it, to avoid future problems. Bleeding through the lines isn't going to get the air thats trapped in the caliper.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
when we bought the wheel cylinders they told us we would need this thing called brake spring pliers and we just wonder if that is so and if so how do you use them.thanks again
Expert:  Ron Z. replied 4 years ago.
The bake pliers will make the job easier to grab and release the springs mentioned above, however, not exactly needed. A pair of needle nose pliers or vise grips will do the same job. The nly difference is the spring pliers have a more rigid tooth base and an angled head to get into the contour of the round housing. Like i said though, not really needed, i dont think i've used a pair in years...
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
ok thanks and if we need any more help we will holla
Expert:  Ron Z. replied 4 years ago.
No prob. I'm here for ya
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
ok we got the wheel cylinders on and have tried to bleed them but we have no pressure the fluid just dripps out do you have any ideal
Expert:  Ron Z. replied 4 years ago.

You may have to bleed the master cylinder first. Similar to bleeding brakes, except you use a 1-pump method. At the master you will see 2 lines going in. While someone pushes down on the pedal, slightly open the rear line until flow stops, then tighten the line. Repeat this 5 or so times, then head back to the wheel cylinders and keep bleeding. Make sure you are doing the passenger rear FIRST.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
thank you also does the truck have to be running while bleeding the brakes
Expert:  Ron Z. replied 4 years ago.
Nope. Leave the truck off. If after a few times of bleeding the wheel cylinders produces nothing, re-bleed the master again 5 or so times, then go back to right-rear cylinder. It may take some time, but it'll go.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
should the brake peddle be going all the way to the floor and what makes it do that
Expert:  Ron Z. replied 4 years ago.
While bleeding, yes it will go to the floor. If its going to the floor and all bleeders are closed and there are no leaks, its probably full of air. Bleed the master, then the wheel cylinders. It will firm up.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
why does it bubble in the resivor on the master when your pushing the brake
Expert:  Ron Z. replied 4 years ago.

Theres air in the lines. Make sure when bleeding the master you have the cap on.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
he says he done all that but still no pressure is that normal
Expert:  Ron Z. replied 4 years ago.
Its going to take some time. Bleed the master 5 more times, then re-bleed the wheel cylinders. It will take some time. I would also check for leaks.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
we have bleed the brakes and put a new cal on the front drivers side but when its off we have peddle but when its on we have nothing
Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 4 years ago.

HiCustomer

I can assist you further if you like. Your original question was answerd by DriveFast71. Do you need further assistance?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
how do you bleed the master cylinder some one called it bench bleed
Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 4 years ago.
With the master cyl off the car and in a vise, Fill reservoir and push the rear piston al the way in, and hold your fingers over the two ports while you let the piston come back to rest. keep doing this until there is a steady stream of fluid and no bubbles in the two chambers of the reservoir and fluid is squirting out both ports. Make sure to keep reservoir level at least half full during bench bleed. If you cannot obtain a steady stream of fluid without bubbles, the master cylinder should be replaced.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
do you thimk that is what we need to do because it gets bubbles it and we have replaced the front cyl on the drivers side and to two wheel cyl on the back and also the proprion valve under the hood now we have peadle when the truck is off but none when we start it
Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 4 years ago.
Yes, If you are getting bubbles in the reservoir, you have air in the master. If you can't bleed out to get a steady stream, the master will need to be replaced, if you can't get it to bench bleed out.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
we have not tried to bench bleed it just heard about that today but nobody new what we was talking about so we decided to ask you guys how to do it. ok do you hold your fingers over the holes while pushing piston it or letting it rest
Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 4 years ago.
When pushing in, fingers off, when letting return to rest, fingers on. This is to prevent air from getting back into master. When you push in, it causes pressure out toward the ports, when it returns, it sucks. If the lines were connected, it would be sucking fluid back in, but with the lines off it will suck air unless the ports are covered with your finger.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
ok we will try it so thanks and if i need any thing else i will holla
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
after we bleed the master and put it back on how do we bleed the brakes the right way we have been told so my ways
Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 4 years ago.

If you do get it to bleed out, I do things differently. The book will tell you to start at the very end of the line first, but keep in mind it is normally assumed you haven't replaced anything, your just bleeding the system. I start at master and work my way down the line following the flow of fluid, from master to combination valve and then to the wheels.

From what you described about bubbles in the master, if the reservoir never went dry when you replaced everything, I would recomend replacing with a new master cylinder, not a rebuilt. At one time I bench bleed 3 rebuilt master cylinders that would not bench bleed out. Finally the 4th one was good. New master is the only way to go. I doubt seriously that your master is any good from what you've told me.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
ok fine just tell me how you should bleed the brakes assuming nothing is wrong with the master
Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 4 years ago.

Just like you did when you bench bleed. With pedal down you open the line, and close the line before letting pedal up. Do one line at a time, starting at the first line on the master until there is no air, then go to the next line and do the same thing. Once the master is squirting only fluid with pressure and no air, close the lines and now you should have pressure. Now pump the pedal and hold it down while opeing the line and close it before you let up. Then go to the next place (the other end of that line). Keep doing this action of pump and hold till you get pressure without air out of the out going lines at the combination valve then go to the wheels. You now can follow the book as to which wheel doing one wheel at a time, pump and hold pedal, open bleeder and close before letting up.

If you have ABS, you will bleed at the incomming and out going lines at the ABS modulator. Just follow the flow till there is no air good pressure at each point.. Remember pedal down, open line, and close line or bleeder before letting up.

Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 4 years ago.
Bleeding by following the flow of pressure to the junction of where it splits off to the wheels will assure you that you have pressure to that point and will let you know exactly where you lose pressure, if and when you do. If you don't have pressure and can see air bubbles, there is no reason to go further.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
where can i get a diagram on how to check egr on a 2000 malibu and how do you clean it out
Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 4 years ago.
I don't believe you finalized the original question. This is a new question that doesn't pertain to the original question and belongs in a different catagory as well. Please finalize the original question and ask this new question in a separate thread.

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