Hi DAKOTA, welcome to Just Answer!.
Check a couple things for me when the engine dies and won't restart..
Does the CHECK ENGINE lamp come on when you roll the key on? Check it first (before stalling) to be sure it works, then compare this to what you see later. It should do a 2-3 second "bulb test" at each key cycle.
Pull the fuel pump and ASD relays underhood and turn the key on. Test to see how many voltage sources you see under the relays (should be two). Turn the key off, see if you lose the voltage source if it's only one that you see. This will tell us which circuit (switched or B+) is disappearing. The B+ will remain whether the key is cycled or not.
Avoid disconnecting the battery or letting it go dead for now... we may have to check for codes in the near future.
Talk in a bit,
Funny... so am I!
That's all good, write when you have news.
Thanks. The 1/2 source you found was what you'll see if you don't pull both relays at the same time... power backfeeds on the control circuit between relays because only one driver is used at the PCM. Did you leave one relay in?
Sorry, I'm just leaving work now and won't be back online for close to 30 minutes.
Back in a few!
When you lost one of the feeds to the relays, I figured we had it licked! I'll put together some electrical checks to be done at the PCM 60-way connector later today and shoot 'em off to you.
Did you find any corrosion on those splices DD?
Boy, sometimes I wish I could! It's one way to get out of the house I suppose lol!
Hang in there. Do we have a little time? I'm at work now but it looks like things will slow down after noon or so.
That's right, you WOULD lose memory when that happened! But anything serious should re-set pretty quick after a few start attempts if it's a cam or crank sensor-kind-of-thing. There's no downside to checking for codes at any time, so don't be shy.
THANKS FOR YOUR PATIENCE TOO, I'LL DIGEST THIS TODAY AND TRY IT TONITE AFTER WORK. LAST NITE I RETRIEVED THESE CODES. 12 27 42 55.
AND I DID IT SEVERAL TIMES TO MAKE SURE I GOT THEM RIGHT.
Thanks. You got some doozies there...
Code 27 has something to do with an injector control circuit, but we won't know more without an actual scan. As self diagnostics got more specific, the flash codes remained the same, taking on more and more alternate meanings. This code could mean an open, short or no power supplied to any or all injectors on the engine. It might be an ASD feed indication, which brings us to the next code...
ASD. It's also non-specific, meaning it could involve either the control or output side of the ASD circuits. But it would easily explain why you have no-starts and stalls at times.
Do you remember back when the power source disappeared under the relays? Was it the switched side? We're still tentatively looking for a lost power source to (at least) the ASD relay, but it could be either the B+ or the ignition feed. Conentrate on that feed especially during the load tests, taking the wiggle test all the way into the cab if needed. The bulkhead connector is also a possibility along with the switch. This portion of the ignition feed is NOT fused directly as an output, so there's really nothing besides splices and connectors to get in the way of pumping the power back under the hood.
The same output gets fused to other circuits through Fuses 15 and 16 later, one of which powers the key-in buzzer. That would be an easy test to see if the switched feed died at the switch... if the buzzer normally works but doesn't when the truck dies, it's a problem from the switch or from the switch back toward the battery.
I just noticed the red/ white B+ feed passes through a black 10-way connector to the rear of the battery on its way to the PCM. You might check this connector for acid damage or whatever...
This is one occasion I'm not sure a pressure gauge would be useful! But if you decide to do it anyway, you'll find a threaded test port on the left side (driver's side) fuel rail that you screw the tester into. You'll probably need to find the right adapter, but other than that, it's plug-n-play.
Somehow, I can't imagine something that would take both power sources out at the same time. Would it be possible that your test light lost its ground on that one test? I ask, because the next phase of testing will be something other than the powers and grounds... moving on to the 5 and 8v circuits on the engine.
Those two codes you just got still worry me a bit... the common thread between the two might be the ASD relay itself, so let's swap another relay into that position to see if it makes any difference. Something like A/C compressor clutch works well for this.
YES.IT WOULD BE EXTREMLY POSSIBLE SOMETHING LIKE WOULD OCCUR.IN MY HASTE.ESPECIALLY SINCE IT HASN'T RESURFACED AGAIN. I WILL TRY CHANGING THE ASD RELAY FOR THE AC CLUTCH RELAY. I DO KNOW I'VE PAID CLOSE ATTENTION TO PUTTING THE SAME RELAY IN SAME SPOT.
HEY ED FORGOT TO FINISH THIS LAST NITE DUE TO WORK INTERVENED, I HATE IT WHEN THAT HAPPENS . ANY WAY DIDN'T GET TO ANYTHING YET.
No problem. We've got all summer!
Talk later DD!
HEY ED , BACK AGAIN. I SWITCHED OUT THE ASD RELAY WITH THE AC RELAY. DIDN'T HELP. I ALSO TESTED THOSE CIRCUITS THEY HELD A STRONG LIGHT FROM A QUARTZ HALOGIN FOG LAMP FOR 3 TO 4 MIN. EACH. I'M A LITTLE CONFUSED ABOUT THE "HANDY NUMBERING GUIDE CAST INTO THE CONNECTOR MOLD" YOU REFER TO, COULDN'T LOCATE THAT.I DO HOPE THAT WHAT YOU CALL A P.C.M IS THE SAME AS THE SINGLE MODULE ENGINE CONTROL.THAT HAYNES REFERS TO. IF NOT I TESTED THE WRONG PLUG, BUT LOOKED JUST LIKE THE PICTURE YOU SENT. BY THE WAY DID YOU KNOW HOW HOT THAT LITTLE DRILL BIT GETS. LOST THE FIRST ONE AFTER A QUICK INSPECTION .LOL.
The drill bit went flying did it? Ouch!
The numbering will be on the back (or wire) side of the connector but is at the start and end of the rows, leaving you to count the individual wires. Shine a light in there... you'll see 'em.
It sounds like your powers and grounds are good if they stayed bright for that long. I'll have to come back and review a few things we talked about in a while. I'm at work right now...