First, you need to remove the right side wheel well splashshield:
Next, remove the crankshaft dampener bolt. Then use a 3 jaw puller to remove the crankshaft pulley/dampener:
You are doing it right. I have encountered some that I had to use a torch to heat up where the pulley meets the dampener to break the corrosion loose, then use the puller.
you can also try soaking it with PB Blaster and allow it to soak for a few hours. If you do this, dont use heat on it afterwards or it will flame up.
I use mineral spirits to clean the block. Most commercial cleaners on the market contain mineral spirits as the most active ingredient for flushing engines, so I have always just used straight mineral spirits to flush out engines
the pulley still will not come off, is there anything else I can do that may help?
Besides the puller, what have you tried - heat or PB Blaster?
I cant say that I have ever encountered one that using heat in conjunction with a puller didnt work.
If you have a long, heavy duty pry bar, have someone pry on the back of the pulley while you turn in on the 3 jaw puller.
I hate to say it, but you may have to end up cutting the pulley down to the crankshaft in order for you to pull it off, and replace the pulley.
No matter what, you will definitely want to use some fine sandpaper or steel wool on the end of the crankshaft before installing the pulley when putting back together.
Most major parts stores like Discount Auto Parts, Pep Boys, Autozone, Napa, or carquest carry. Runs about $5 a can
Keep me posted, and I will continue to help if able to
Just wanted to let you know that the PB Blast did the trick. just a few sprays and let it sit for about 15 minutes the pulley came right off!!! I will keep this on hand all the time. once again thank you for your help. it is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!
san jacinto, calif.
Great to hear it worked. It may be more expensive, but worth every penny for it. I usually keep a couple of cases on hand because of the salt road corroding parts up here in SD.
I swear by that stuff.
have a great weekend
SD= South Dakota? Eric you were truly a life saver.. and I hope you have a great weekend also, I know I will now......
Hey Eric!, do you know if the block has a drain plug, I need to get the milk shake out of the block.
To my knowledge, they dont have a block drain. I also looked in service manual and no reference to one.
Mineral spirits works great at removing the milkshake sludge. With oil drain plug out. Pour a gallon into engine crankcase. It will get the worst of it out. Once you get engine back together. Pour 1 qt transmission oil, and 3 qts mineral spirits into engine. Run for 1-2 minutes. Then drain and replace oil filter.
Check intake gaskets- there is a possibility of cracked block or head.
cleaning out water ports, with inlet and outlet radiator hoses disconnected from radiator and themostat removed, you just need to run a hose thru it flushing block out until clear water is coming out.
Usually you do. Have a machine shop pressure test the head- cracked head will cause this, as will a cracked block.
Change the transmission fluid out completely. If coolant got into transmission by chance, it will wash out the trans fluid from all the bands and clutches, thereby ruining a perfectly good transmission. Flush cooling system thoroughly. Other than that, you should be good to go.
do you need directions on the radiator?
Its not that common. I have probably done a dozen or so radiators for this problem over the last 10 years.
Below in pdf file format(adobe reader) are directions for fan and radiator. Just click on blue highlighted word to open and download directions:
No problem, just remember that if oyu run into addditional problem on removing the radiator, feel free to contact me on same post
I will , thanks again
Hi Eric, I took the head in for p/t, but it looks like they may have turned the cam shaft. can you tell me with the head at TDC on the compression stroke which valves should be opened and in which cylinders.
I am having trouble opening my service manuals right now, and dont remember off the top of my head. As soon as I get it to open i will post the info.
Not yet. I am running a scan thru it now. I may have a virus in it. when I try to open it, it crashes the whole computer. If the scan doesnt tell me anything or fix- I have to wait til Monday to get ahold of a rep.
If you need it in a hurry, you might me able to call up a Napa or Autozone, they should normally have it-especially Autozone, they are affliated with AllData...
Just woundering how things turned out with your computer? and to see if there is a trick to removing the tube seals from the valve cover?
No luck yet.
The tube seals are pressed in from the factory and can be a pain to get out. I use an exact-o knife to get them out. Some I will have cut and scrape them out, others I have been lucky enough to cut thru one and the grasp with needlnose pliers and pull out complete seal
Well I have everything put back together, but i have never used the mineral spirits, how do I go about this?
Since it wound up being the transmission cooler lines leaking in the radiator, and not a headgasket, you shouldnt have to flush engine with mineral spirits unless you saw sludge buildup in top of engine when you had it apart. You do want to change out the trans fluid out if you havent already.
Put 3 qts mineral spirits and 1 qt trans fluid in engine, let is sit for an hour, then drain. Then fill with engine oil and change filter. Change oil in 300 miles.
the sludge is not in the motor oil, just the coolant/ water areas in the block. so do i just add the mineral spirits like i would coolant and the do a flush like the book say, by disconnecting the top radiator hose from the radiator and inserting the garden hose into the top of the radiator?
For the cooling system, best way to flush is to hook up a garden hose to the hot water outlet to your washing machine and flush with the hot water- that will flush the gunk out- you may need to flush for an hour. You run the hot water thru until it comes out clear
not for the cooling system- I have found hot water to be the best- I run a long hose from my hot water outlet for my washing machine.
ok, i will do this and let you know how things turn out
I wanted to let you know the hot water did it, filled the coolant it started right up the only problem was it started to overheat again. I was stumped, everything is new, water pump radiator, thermostat temp sensors and the radiator cap. so just before the trash truck came I went and got the old radiator cap from the trash and put it on.
only because the top hose was so hard while running i could not even sqeeze it a little.
Changed out the new to the old and solved the issue.
I know new parts can be defective, so never dismiss even the new stuff......
Hey boss I wish I could do something for you, you were a great help and it is very appreciated..
Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
great to hear! glad to have helped some- what I am here for. Have a great week!
do you know anything about the transmission, its an automatic.it started slipping but only on occassion. then today the check engine light came on. i hooked up the scanner and got 2 codes p0700 and p0755 transmission solenoid/ pressure switch. i am stuck on hoe to test this????
The P700 code is just a generic code to let technician know that there is a fault code stored in the TCM
Possible causes of P0755 are a faulty 2-4 solenoid, open/short in wiring, or faulty TCM.
Unfortunately, the only tests I know of or have access to require a factory level scan tool.
They run around $10 grand.
That is why they charge to do the diagnostics. Take it a trans shop to at leas get the diagnostics done and then decide whether its something you can tackle or not on repairing