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sprinkles08
sprinkles08, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep master tech
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 16476
Experience:  ASE Master and Advanced Certified, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep Master Certified, Trans and Hybrid Specialist
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Why wont my parking lights work on my dodge ram?

Resolved Question:

why won't my parking lights work on my dodge ram?
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Dodge
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 5 years ago.

Hi. What year is your Ram? Have you tried anything yet? Do the turn signals work ok? Do you have a test light to do some testing?

 

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Forgot I asked this a long time ago. well i know the problem, it's my IPM (the fuse box up under the hood). I jumped the relay with a jumper wire to my fog lights and into the fuse box but that seems to go out once every winter or so and i'm sick of it, so now i'm paying the $725 to get it fixed when Dodge should have issued a recall.

This issue is exactly what was wrong with me. Thanks for your help.

http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/2uom3-2004-dodge-ram-1500-tail-lights-license-plate-lights-just.html
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.

If I would have heard back from you we could have diagnosed it together and saved you some money. A replacement IPM runs $450, but I've got a free repair that you can do yourself in less than an hour to fix this problem.

 

 

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Haha I didn't mean to come off as an ass there, that thank you was genuine. Sorry about that. I completely forgot I made that post a while back.

Well it's currently at the shop and the part was on backorder and he doesn't know how long it will take so I do have time. I would only be out the $108 he told me it would be to diagnose the problem. I had done some research and already pretty much knew what it was. Is your free repair a permanent one? I'm just tired of fiddling with a jumper wire every winter in Chicago. We're about to have a brutal one tomorrow too.

Thanks again.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.

I'm in the midwest also, and I'm not happy with the weather situation either!

 

Yes, my repair is a permanent one.

 

 

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I'm interested. This is the first time I've used justanswer.com. How do I go about doing this?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.

I'll post the answer and then you'll have to pay a deposit to be able to view it. If you are happy with my help then clicking the Accept button will give me credit for my time.

 

After sending this post it will just be a few minutes and I'll post the fix.

 

 

Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.

Ok, here we go.

 

All connections inside the IPM are made by printed circuit board, no wiring is used. All connection between the front control module, the fuses and relays, and the connectors underneath is all done through circuit board. What happens is moisture coming through a vent hole in the bottom will cause corrosion on the circuit board which can cause circuits to open up. The most common circuit to have this problem is the park lamp driver circuit. The FCM turns on the park lamp relay by grounding a circuit through the circuit board.

 

The normal repair done on these is to replace the IPM, but as you've found it's quite expensive. What I've been doing for a few years now is opening them up, finding and repairing the bad spot on the circuit board with solder. Since it can be hard to explain I've made a short video showing my process, which you can view HERE.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Interesting. The only thing I think I would have a problem with is soldering as I'm not the best at it. But If I can get to the dealer today and get my truck back and pick up a manual to remove the module, I will probably attempt this tonight. I think i'm off work tomorrow becuase of the storm. Is there anything else I can do to keep moisture out?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.

Removing the IPM isn't hard. There is one 13mm bolt, one push pin to remove, then you'll slide it to the right to release it from the battery box. Remove the positive battery cable from it, pull it up and disconnect the electrical connectors underneath and then it's out.

 

To keep moisture out you can seal the holes on the bottom. You'll see a couple small square holes, you could seal these with silicone if you wanted. They're in place for venting though, so I'm torn as to whether this would cause heat buildup problems though.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Yeah. Maybe I can fab. my own sort of sheild or something just to block splashing form underneath. Well I appreciate your help and I'll go ahead and accept your answer anyway. If I do attempt this later I might have more questions haha. Thanks again.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.

Replacement IPM's do come with a large plastic shield to keep water from spraying up on the bottom.

 

If you do need more help you can come back and reply to this question at any time, and clicking the Accept button doesn't cut off communication. Good luck with it!

sprinkles08, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep master tech
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 16476
Experience: ASE Master and Advanced Certified, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep Master Certified, Trans and Hybrid Specialist
sprinkles08 and 11 other Dodge Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Well I got it out, disassembled, and found the corrosion. It took a good size of the copper trace with it so I just took a few strands of copper from a wire and made a jumper and soldered it in. I sealed it and along the edge where the FCM attaches with some silicone. I checked for continuity and everything was good.

When I put it back in my truck, I opened the door and my drivers side tail light flashed and went off. Then I turned the lights on and only the passenger side went on. I checked the fuses and the relay and they are good. I'm thinking it is just the tail lights themselves, I just haven't gotten a chance to take them out and check them yet. They are aftermarket LED tail lights I got from my buddy when he sold his truck. My parking lamps actually went out the second I put them on a couple years ago. I thought it was coincidence that it happened but do you think they could have been the cause in the first place? And the fix I just did on the IPM should have nothing to do with it right? It would most likely be a connection on the tail light or the light itself right?

Thanks for all your help again. Much appreciated.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.
The park lamp relay runs all four corners of the truck. If you've got at least one park lamp that does come on then you've fixed the problem in the IPM. Good job! If you've only got a problem with a couple lights then they've got bulb problems, wiring, etc. The first thing to do would definitely be to check for power at the lamp connectors with the lights on to see if there was power. If there was power and ground then you know it's just a blown bulb.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
So I took my lights off and the passenger side has power to 3 out of the 5 wires that go into the harness. The drive's side has power to only 2 of those. The white and yellow wire, which seems to go all the way back to the IPM I believe, at fuse 34 does not have power.

I'm a bit lost. I had my parking lights working with a jumper wire plugged into fuse 34 coming from my fog lights so when they turned on, it gave power to the parking lamps. So that would mean that the main white/yellow wire would be good and had continuity through to the tail light. Where would the disconnect be up front if the wire is good? I could try probing that wire up under the IPM if I knew which of the 6 harnesses it was underneath. Hope you can help.

Thanks.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.
Turn the park lamps on and see if you have power on the pink/violet wire at the left rear lamp housing. This is the park lamp feed.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Sorry. I ran to the store and bought a haynes manual. I see on the exterior lighting wire diagram that there should be a pnk/ppl wire that goes to parking lamp fuse, but I don't have a pnk/ppl wire. I found another diagram online that said it was white/yellow and that that's the wire that I have that isn't getting power. Not sure if there's a difference in models or anything there.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.

You have a 2002 Ram 1500, correct? If so then pink/violet is the correct color for the park lamp circuit. This is the color from the IPM to the left and rear lamp housings, front park lamps, and license plate lights.

 

 

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Sorry no I have a 2004 Ram 1500. Regular Cab Rumble Bee. I believe it's the SLT package. And I have power to the right parking lamp lights. But not the left, or the license plate lights I think.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.

The color you found was correct then. The 2004 truck does show a white/yellow wire as the park lamp feed.

 

I know the left rear park lamp doesn't work and the right one does. What about the front? Do both of the front park lamps work and we've just got a problem in the left rear and possibly the license plate lights?

 

 

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
It looks like the front left one is out as well. So it's the whole left side. And the license plate lights. The right side works. I wasn't sure if it was divided into left/right or front/rear for something like this.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.
Actually it is divided into left and right, and the sides of the truck are fused separately. The right side of the truck is powered by fuse 32, the left side is 34. Have you checked fuse 34 since the lights stopped?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Yes. And it was not blown. I just checked again and it was actually missing haha, I must have taken it out when I was cheking it earlier. I took out fuse 32 and put it in 34's spot and still nothing. Could I have damaged something taking the IPM apart?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.
Do you have a test light or voltmeter? With the fuse in turn the park lamps on and check for power right at the fuse.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Found it. So tested the battery side of fuse slot and I have power, when I pulled the fuse out a little bit to stick the test light in there the parking lamps flickers. It looks like the circuit board wasn't gripping the fust all the way. The pins that come through from underneat. I must have bent that one slightly (the odds of being the pin for that fuse is direclty related to my luck) when I took the IPM out. I bent it a little tighter so it grips the fuse better. I can't thank you enough thought.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 3 years ago.

That's great! I was starting to wonder if we still had more problems on the circuit board. Glad to hear you found it!

 

 

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