How JustAnswer Works:

  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.

Ask vipertech763 Your Own Question

vipertech763
vipertech763, automotive technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 1780
Experience:  gold certified, dodge viper certified
3256298
Type Your Dodge Question Here...
vipertech763 is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

1997 Dodge RAM 1500: All electricals work except headlights..high beam

Customer Question

1997 Dodge RAM 1500. All electricals work except headlights. No low or high beam. 40A fuze is OK and bulbs are OK. Any ideas?
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Dodge
Expert:  vipertech763 replied 5 years ago.
Good evening, do you have access to a multimeter or test light? If so then which one. Thanks
Customer: replied 5 years ago.

Multimeter

 

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Owner's manual states that headlight system has a circuit breaker in the switch assembly, but nothing more.
Expert:  vipertech763 replied 5 years ago.

graphic

 

 

The above pic will be the wiring diagram that we will start with first. You need to gain access to the headlamp switch connector.

 

The should be 12 volts on the red and light green wire at the headlamp switch connector. If okay then turn the headlamps on and see if 12 volts comes out on the light green wire. This circuit then leads to the highbeam switch mounted on the column. You will need to gain access to the connector for this as well. Once you have access to this then make sure all the wiring is firmly seated in the connector.

 

Check these items and then let me know what you find.

 

If this answers your question then please press ACCEPT. If you need more help then let me know. Thanks.

vipertech763, automotive technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 1780
Experience: gold certified, dodge viper certified
vipertech763 and other Dodge Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
OK I will check this out and get back to you.
Expert:  vipertech763 replied 5 years ago.
Not a problem. Im about to call it a night. I will be back on line in the morning and will help you further. Let me know everything you find out and then I will help you further until the problem is solved.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
OK. I have 12V on the light green wire going into the high beam switch. Did not take out the dash yet to check 12V on the red wire going into the headlight switch.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
OK. I have 12V on the light green wire going into the high beam switch. Did not take out the dash yet to check 12V on the red wire going into the headlight switch. R/O wire appears to be shorted to ground when checked at multifunction switch connector. Bypassing multifunction switch with a jumper wire between LG and R/O does nothing, as expected. All wires to passenger side light appear to be shorted to ground (with multifuction switch connector unplugged). I think that I have a short to ground somewhere in engine compartment.
Expert:  vipertech763 replied 5 years ago.

So the circuit leading up to the high beam switch checks good at this point. If there was a short anywhere the fuse would be blown. There is no speration of driver or passenger side lights at the highbeam switch in the wiring diagram so Im not sure why you think the passenger side lights are shorted to ground. The circuit goes into the highbeam switch on the light green wire. When on low beam, 12 volts comes out on the violet and white wire when the headlamp switch is on and the high beam 12 volts comes out on the red and orange wire when the high beams are turned on. Make sure you check both of these using the multimeter. I know you said you jumped the light green and read and orange but please check the low and high beam like I stated using the multimeter so that I can see where we need to go next. The reason I ask you to check it exactly the way I describe is so that I can keep the same path in my mind for checking it.

 

 

Customer: replied 5 years ago.

Will do as you request.

 

Just to clarify, I jumped the LG to R/O across the connector block to see if the high beam would light, but nothing. I checked the resistance of the R/O to ground at the connector block without a bulb and the R/O is connected to ground. I checked the bulb connector on the passenger side and the B, R/O and V/W are all connected to ground.

 

I have owned the vehicle since new and have not made any modifications to the wiring. My daughter has been driving this vehicle and has told me that the headlights would die periodically while driving then come back on.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.

Will do as you request.

 

Just to clarify, I jumped the LG to R/O across the connector block to see if the high beam would light, but nothing. I checked the resistance of the R/O to ground at the connector block without a bulb and the R/O is connected to ground. I checked the bulb connector on the passenger side and the B, R/O and V/W are all connected to ground.

 

I have owned the vehicle since new and have not made any modifications to the wiring. My daughter has been driving this vehicle and has told me that the headlights would die periodically while driving then come back on.

 

Just one other fact. Flashers work as do parking lights and turn indicators. Fog lights work, but do not go out on high beam. High beam light does not illuminate.

Expert:  vipertech763 replied 5 years ago.
The red and orange wire is for both high beams....not just the passenger side. So if you still had the drivers side bulb in you would show a ground on that circuit. Plus as mentioned, if it was shorted the fuse supplying the light green wire would be blown. Plus let me know about the readings coming out the switch on the low beam circuit which is the violet and white. As mentioned, this circuit feeds both sides, so once again, checking it at the passenger side would show a ground if the drivers bulb was still in.
Expert:  vipertech763 replied 5 years ago.

The circuit from the high beam switch goes from there to the headlamps.

 

graphic

So please check the low beam and high beam circuits at the highbeam switch with it plugged in. I need to know the voltage readings so that I can point you in the next direction. Because if voltage is present but still not at the bulbs themselves, I will have to have you check other connectors inbetween. Thats why I need to know the voltage readings.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Yes I will. It is a little difficult to do since there is no easy access to bare wire.
Expert:  vipertech763 replied 5 years ago.
All you need to do is just back probe the connector. You can use a paper clip or try to piece the wire itself. Just be careful to not touch anything metal when checking if using a paper clip.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Tests show no voltage on either R/O or V/W wires. Both bulbs were removed (Do you want them in?). This is great fun on a cold MN winter's night.
Expert:  vipertech763 replied 5 years ago.

If 12 volts is going in on the light green wire as you say and not comign out on the red and orange or the violet and white then we have an issue with the switch. Here is a picture of the high beam switch connector so that we can be sure your checking the correct circuits.

 

MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH
CAVCIRCUITFUNCTION
1V9 18WT/BKWIPER SWITCH MODE SIGNAL
2V8 18VTWIPER SWITCH MODE SIGNAL
3V10 18BRWIPER SWITCH MODE SIGNAL
4V6 16DB/BKFUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (ACC/RUN)
5V4 16RD/YLWIPER SWITCH HIGH SPEED OUTPUT
6V3 18BR/WTWIPER SWITCH LOW SPEED OUTPUT
7V7 18DG/WTWIPER PARK SWITCH SENSE
8V17 18DGWIPER SWITCH DELAY OUTPUT
9V3 18BR/WTWIPER SWITCH LOW SPEED OUTPUT
9V3 18BR/WTWIPER SWITCH LOW SPEED OUTPUT
10--
11L60 18TN/BKRIGHT TURN SIGNAL
11L60 20TN/BKRIGHT TURN SIGNAL
12L62 18BR/PKRIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL
13L19 18PK/WTHAZARD FLASHER OUTPUT
14L50 18WT/TNSTOP LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
15L63 18DG/RDLEFT REAR TURN SIGNAL
16L61 18LG/YLLEFT TURN SIGNAL
16L61 20LG/YLLEFT TURN SIGNAL
17L6 18RD/GYTURN SIGNAL FLASHER OUTPUT
18L4 16VT/WTDIMMER SWITCH LOW BEAM OUTPUT
19L2 16LGHEADLAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
20L3 16RD/ORDIMMER SWITCH HIGH BEAM OUTPUT
21L20 16LG/WTFUSED B(+)
22--
23--
24--

 

Terminals 18, 19, and 20 are the ones we need to be worring about.

Expert:  vipertech763 replied 5 years ago.
Keep in mind that this is all based on what your telling me that you checked. Can there be more than one issue....possibly but not very likely, however not impossible. You can also to be 100% sure, can test for continuity at the switch with it removed and the connector removed. There should be continuity between either 18 and 19 or 19 and 20 depending on the high beam switch position. If no continuity then the switch will need to be replaced. Make sure also that all three of these wires are fully seated in the connector. With the connector removed, look make sure they are fully in the connector.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
New results. First the multifunction switch. The impedance changes from high to low on both 19-18 and 20-19 with the high/low beam switch. Next the connector. One internal female contact (19) was pushed back too far for a good connection. Now I get 0V or 13.78V on V/W. R/O is odd in that I get 0.2V from pin 20 on the female connector when unplugged. When plugged into the multifunction switch I also get 0.2V.
Expert:  vipertech763 replied 5 years ago.

So is the low beams now working now that the #19 is fully seated? I assume the 0V or 13.78 on V/W is from moving the switch to high beam and back?

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
These results are with both bulbs removed. The 0V or 13.78V on V/W is from moving the switch to high beam and back. I will run the test again with both bulbs installed.
Expert:  vipertech763 replied 5 years ago.

Good, I have a feeling they will now start working

 

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I put the bulbs back and the V/W line is pulled down from 13.78V to 0V and no light..!
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Thanks. I will attack this again in the morning.
Expert:  vipertech763 replied 5 years ago.
You may need to use a test light at this point so that we can check everything with a load (test light) on it. The 13 volts may just be residual voltage that when under a load drops to zero. The test light will varify this. Check the light green first with the test light and then recheck the low and high beams. If you dont have a test light, they are cheap to purchase.

JustAnswer in the News:

 
 
 
Ask-a-doc Web sites: If you've got a quick question, you can try to get an answer from sites that say they have various specialists on hand to give quick answers... Justanswer.com.
JustAnswer.com...has seen a spike since October in legal questions from readers about layoffs, unemployment and severance.
Web sites like justanswer.com/legal
...leave nothing to chance.
Traffic on JustAnswer rose 14 percent...and had nearly 400,000 page views in 30 days...inquiries related to stress, high blood pressure, drinking and heart pain jumped 33 percent.
Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions.
I will tell you that...the things you have to go through to be an Expert are quite rigorous.
 
 
 

What Customers are Saying:

 
 
 
  • I AM VERY GLAD THAT I TOOK A CHANCE ON YOUR PROBLEM SOLVING SKILLS. I WAS SUCCESSFUL IN REPLACING THE FUEL PUMP. MY TRUCK RUNS LIKE A CLOCK. IT RUNS LIKE THE DAY I BOUGHT IT. NO LUNGING FORWARD, THE TURBO REACTS THE SECOND I STOMP ON THE GAS, AND IT HAS A LOT MORE POWER AND EVEN SOUNDS BETTER TO ME. IT SAVED ABOUT $500.00 BY DOING THE WORK MYSELF. I GIVE YOU ALL THE CREDIT FOR YOUR DIAGNOSING THE PROBLEM, JUST FROM THE SYMPTONS I GAVE YOU OVER THE e MAIL. I WILL USE YOUR WEB SITE AGAIN AND REFER MY FRIENDS. THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE HELP. TOM WHITTAKER USA
< Last | Next >
  • I AM VERY GLAD THAT I TOOK A CHANCE ON YOUR PROBLEM SOLVING SKILLS. I WAS SUCCESSFUL IN REPLACING THE FUEL PUMP. MY TRUCK RUNS LIKE A CLOCK. IT RUNS LIKE THE DAY I BOUGHT IT. NO LUNGING FORWARD, THE TURBO REACTS THE SECOND I STOMP ON THE GAS, AND IT HAS A LOT MORE POWER AND EVEN SOUNDS BETTER TO ME. IT SAVED ABOUT $500.00 BY DOING THE WORK MYSELF. I GIVE YOU ALL THE CREDIT FOR YOUR DIAGNOSING THE PROBLEM, JUST FROM THE SYMPTONS I GAVE YOU OVER THE e MAIL. I WILL USE YOUR WEB SITE AGAIN AND REFER MY FRIENDS. THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE HELP. TOM WHITTAKER USA
  • Just a quick line to tell you how pleased I am to have my brakes working properly after all this time. Your answer was what I needed. I would certainly recommend you highly. God bless! Rev. Jerry Baysinger Holts Summit, Mo
  • I recently asked a question about my 2005 dodge ram, and I just wanted to let my Expert know that he hit the nail squarely on the head with his answer. I wanted to thank him again. Greg Pittsburgh, PA
  • Just a quick line to tell you how pleased I am to have my brakes working properly after all this time. Your answer was what I needed. I would certainly recommend you highly. God bless! Jerry Holts Summit, MO
  • I was skeptical at first but thought I'd give it a try. I was pleasantly surprised. Your site actually is a quality service that I would recommend to others in a heartbeat. Stan Sayre, PA
  • Wonderful service, prompt, efficient, and accurate. Couldn't have asked for more. I cannot thank you enough for your help. Mary C. Freshfield, Liverpool, UK
  • This expert is wonderful. They truly know what they are talking about, and they actually care about you. They really helped put my nerves at ease. Thank you so much!!!! Alex Los Angeles, CA
 
 
 

Meet The Experts:

 
 
 
  • Jerry

    Master Mechanic

    Satisfied Customers:

    1227
    ASE Master tech, 30 years exp. troubleshooter, driveability tech
< Last | Next >
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/SU/supermechanic/2013-8-23_03546_500.64x64.jpg Jerry's Avatar

    Jerry

    Master Mechanic

    Satisfied Customers:

    1227
    ASE Master tech, 30 years exp. troubleshooter, driveability tech
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/MO/MoparCertified/2012-6-7_4142_mechanic.64x64.jpg Mopar Certified's Avatar

    Mopar Certified

    Dodge Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    5813
    24 Year Chrysler/Dodge Certified Specialist
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jeep10000/2008-9-18_222938_192601.jpg Chris's Avatar

    Chris

    Shop Foreman

    Satisfied Customers:

    4041
    ASE and Chrysler Certified Master Tech
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ke4ich/2009-08-12_212931_DSC02211.JPG moparfl's Avatar

    moparfl

    ASE Certified Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    3285
    ASE Master Tech Gold level Chrysler Status 30 years dealership exp
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/DO/dodgerench/2012-8-1_1142_IMG3173.64x64.JPG Dodgerench's Avatar

    Dodgerench

    ASE Certified Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    2480
    30+ years Dodge/Chrysler exp., ASE Master with L1 certification. Driveability/ combustion specialist
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/RO/rodcuda/2011-7-25_224114_Donhoff1.64x64.JPG Neal's Avatar

    Neal

    Dodge Mechanic

    Satisfied Customers:

    1870
    30 years experience in Dodge Chrysler and Plymouth
  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/tsmodie/2009-6-10_144056_tim.jpg Tim Mohr's Avatar

    Tim Mohr

    ASE MASTER TECH

    Satisfied Customers:

    1664
    30 YRS EXPERIENCE, FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC, GAS AND DEISEL