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2005 PTC GT (TURBO)... 50AMP (HIGH SPEED RADIATOR FAN) FUSE BLOWS. FAN SEEMS TO RUN AND SOUND FINE, DRAWS 20 AMPS (APPROX.) ON LOW AND 30 AMPS (APPROX.) ON HIGH. REMOVED RELAYS AND POPPED THE COVERS OFF, CONTACTS LOOK TO BE IN EXCELLENT CONDITION. MY THOUGHT WAS MAYBE A CONTACT WAS INTERMITTENTLY HANGING UP (TAC WELDING) CAUSING BOTH HIGH AND LOW SPEEDS TO ENERGIZE AT THE SAME TIME. HOW ABOUT INTERMITTENT PROBLEM IN MOTOR? ANY IDEAS? GARY, FRUSTRATED IN CALIFORNIA!
2005 Chrysler PT CRUISER GT 2.4 L Already Tried: NOTHING REPLACED OTHER THAN 50 AMP FUSE FOR HIGH SPEED RADIATOR FAN CIRCUIT (THREE TIMES). INSPECTIONS AND TESTS ONLY AS EXPLAINED IN QUESTION.
HelloCustomer Your only items on that circuit are the high speed fan motor and the high speed fan relay. The connections in the relay is your first item, the amp draw on start up of the motor is your second item and the ground labeled G102 is your last item that can affect the system. A bad ground would increase amp draw and fan start up will be the highest amp draw. Before condemning anything, I would take G102 off and clean the body, the bolt and the wire and see if the problem repeats. From that point, your either fixed or not and I think motor replacement is the most probable. Here it he diagram of the circuit and the location of that ground.
Your JA Expert,
Ivan
IVAN:
I'M AFRAID I'VE BEEN THERE DONE THAT. I WAS HOPING THAT YOU WOULD COME UP WITH SOME STATISTICS FROM DATA BASED ON HIGH INCODENTS OF THESE SYMTOMS AND IT ALMOST ALWAYS TURNS OUT TO BE SOMETHING SPECIFIC LIKE, ITS BEEN FOUND THAT WHEN THE MOTOR GETS TO A CERTAIN TEMP. THE MOTOR DRAWS EXCESSIVE CURRENT BECAUSE OF BEARING SEIZING, OR HIGH SPEED WINDING GOES TO GROUND, ETC.. I'M STILL EXACTLY WHERE I WAS, "NOT WANTING TO REPLACE THE MOTOR JUST TO FIND OUT IF THATS IT". I HAVE THAT VERY SAME SCHEMATIC FROM MY SHOP MANUAL. I MUST SAY YOU CAME UP WITH IT RATHER QUICK.
F.Y.I. A POOR GROUND WOULD INCREASE RESISTANCE CAUSING CURRENT TO BE LOWER, UNLESS IT KEPT THE MOTOR IN A START UP STATE, BUT THAT WOULD BE APPARENT IN THE WAY THE MOTOR BEHAVED. TRUST ME, I'VE MONITORED ITS OPERATION.
THANKS,
GARY
No a poor ground raises amperage do to higher resistance in the circuit. I have searched and found no high occurances of this failure, so you're at the point where you've got to take action or catch it in the act. You only have 2 items on the circuit and I doubt the relay is the issue.
THAT MEENS IF WHAT YOUR SAYING IS TRUE, THEN A VERY LOW RESISTANCE SHORT OR A "DEAD SHORT" DRAWS LITTLE OR NO CURRENT!!! YOU AND I BOTH KNOW THAT ISN'T TRUE.
Let me rephrase that, current load exceeds the circuits recommended load on both ends of the spectrum. None the less, a bad ground will raise the amperage load of the fuse.Ivan39747.9482457176
I will open this up to other experts that may have other answers to you prefer.
CURRENT IS EQUAL IN ALL PARTS OF A SERIES CIRCUIT. ITS ALWAYS BEEN THAT WAY. NO TIME TO DISCUSS, GOTTA GO.
TAKE CARE:
Hi. Bad cooling fan motors on the PT's are becoming pretty common. I have seen about 5 of these over the last few weeks. I am quite sure you need to replace the cooling fan assembly. See your dealer before making repairs yourself, the fan may be covered under your 7/70 powertrain warranty for a $100 decuctable.
I'LL CHECK THAT WARRANTY OUT. THANKS FOR THE HEADS UP.
I'LL LET YOU KNOW.
Ok sounds great.
I put some time into this searching the entire harness for possible pinched or exposed wires in fan circuit, mostly because there was some front end damage at one time. In the process I found a chafed wire to the fan motor, at the bottom left portion of the fan shroud where the wire is attached with a tie down. Nothing near it to rub on it. Turns out a weak motor mount was allowing the engine to torque over enough to rub on the wire. Thats why the problem was so intermittent, it would only touch and short out under very heavy accelleration. If the manufacturer had routed the harness an inch higher or lower it would never have happened. Basically all I did was reinsulate the wire and reroute it.
Had I accepted your answer I would be out 200+ $$ and still had the same problem. Since this is a design flaw and it must be happening alot to the turbo models, it's hard for me to believe that it wasn't common knowledge. WELL IT IS NOW. ANSWER NOT ACCEPTED!.
I've replaced countless fans on these, and have never once seen or heard of any problem with the wiring. I never told you that you had to replace the fan, I said it was a common problem. I or the first expert you were also unhappy with would have helped you test it but you got offline instead. You can't ever replace any component without doing any testing. Its not common knowledge, and I've also never seen a broken motor mount or torque strut on a new PT Cruiser. It sounds like your problems were due to the accident. There's no need to accept the answer if you were not happy with it.
It was suggested that I replace the motor (read previous) and I mentioned the current draw was normal and that the motor sounded fine. No other testing would have yielded anything. I'd keep this info if I were you because my son has the same turbo PT and its set up exactly the same. His motor torques over and touches the wire harness in the same place, just not as hard YET!. We modified the harness routing on his also.
One more thing, I had mentioned that I was suspicious that maybe both high and low was getting energized at the same time because of a stuck relay and causing the fuse to blow. That couldn't happen because, the schematic doesn't show it but F.Y.I. the fan motor isn't a dual speed motor, it gets low speed by power being applied through a high temp. ceramic resistor mounted in the air stream on fan shroud for cooling. If both relays were closed all that would happen is the motor would run on high.