Good afternoon, I need to make sure I fully understand what you are speaking of so please excuse. I assume you are saying that you pulled the spark plug wire out of the valve cover and saw oil in the hole where the spark plug is still at, correct? If this is the case then the cause will be worn spark plug tube seals. The tubes that the plug wires go through are sealed to the valve cover with 4 seals (one per tube) just like the valve cover has a gasket to seal it to the cylinder head. All are designed to keep the oil thats splashing around in the valve train, from getting into the tubes and outside of the valve cover. The repair it to remove the valve cover and replace the 4 tube seals and the valve cover gasket as well. Its not a hard job and its fairly simple. Here is a picture related:
With the number of miles it might have, I would recommend a pcv valve as simple maintance as well.
I changed the tube seals and replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires. The pcv valve was fine so i did not repalce that. I also did an oil change. My car stopped sputtering during idle but it was very sluggish when accelerating. On the highway it made a whirrling sound and then the acceleration dropped to 5mph. The spark plug wire was removed and there was still oil on the top of the spark plug and that was the only one checked. Could this be a head gasket problem or valves? My car is not over heating and there is no collant in the oil.
There are some rare moments when the tubes them selves become unseated and no fully bottomed out in the head as its designed to be. If you have replaced the tube seals that go on the valve cover and oil is still getting into the tubes then I would recommend replacing the tubes them selves. They are removable. The oil in the tubes is getting on the plug that is exposed and when the plug is removed, the oil goes down along the block and then gets on the bottom as well which sounds liek the reason for both ends having oil on them.
Lets address the issue with the plugs getting oil. In the past you mentioned that when you pulled the plug wires out that they had oil on them and that there was oil in the tube that the spark plug was down in. This issue is either from the upper tube rubber seals or the tubes not sealing properly to the head. In order to get the tubes, you need to go tour local Dodge dealer. If the oil is in the cylinder itself (where the piston is) then the spark plug will oil have oil on the tip of the plug, not on the upper portion where the wires attached. Being able to see the actual sensor readings would help the most to see what the adaptives are ( fuel compensating by adding or removing fuel). It sounds like you have more than one issue. The blown head gasket worries me. This can cause low compression and driveabilty issues, not just overheating. Basics such as fuel pressure, compression test and seeing the sensor readings with a scanner are the items that are needed next. It takes a skilled technican to be able to view the data and interpet what it means and what the possible causes may be.
At this point it sounds like they may just be guessing....or once they had a similar issue and that was the cause. The sensor readings are the most important.....it would tell you in a few seconds from looking at it if the TPS was good. There is no specs as far s resistance is concerned.
The PCM supplies approximately 5 volts DC to the TPS. The TPS output voltage (input signal to the powertrain control module) represents throttle blade position. The TPS output voltage to the PCM varies from approximately 0.35 to 1.03 volts at minimum throttle opening (idle) to a maximum of 3.1 to 4.0 volts at wide open throttle.
When reading the voltage and moving the throttle linkage, the voltage should change smoothly and no spike or drop out at any point.
Are these sensor readings something i can do at home? I have no tow service and my car doesn't run. What tools will i need to do this? So is the 44psi reading on the fuel pressure test ok or is it low and something in the fuel system could be the cause?