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Mike V.
Mike V., Auto Mechanic
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 20238
Experience:  25 years automotive expierience, Nissan factory trained, Subaru factory trained.
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95 Dodge Dakota 2.5L. Im changing the timing belt after it

Customer Question

95 Dodge Dakota 2.5L. I'm changing the timing belt after it broke when trying to start it. Question 1, how do i make sure that the valve and crank are in time before i put on the belt. Question 2, how do i time the cam, i see the slot in the pulley but i do not see a timing hole plug, i just see the ridges on top of the valve cover.
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Dodge
Expert:  Mike V. replied 5 years ago.
Hi there!Not sure if this will help,take a look
EMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1 and 2

If possible, position the engine so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the timing belt covers.
  3. Remove the timing belt tensioner and allow the belt to hang free.
  4. Remove the air conditioning compressor belt idler pulley, if equipped and remove the mounting stud. Unbolt the compressor/alternator bracket and position it to the side.
  5. Remove the timing belt from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Turn the crankshaft sprocket and intermediate shaft sprocket until the marks are in line. Use a straightedge shaft sprocket until the marks are in line. Use a straightedge from bolt to bolt to confirm alignment.
Click image to see an enlarged viewFig. 1: Align the crankshaft and intermediate shaft timing mark as indicated-2.5L engine
  1. Turn the camshaft until the small hole in the sprocket is at the top and rows on the hub are in line with the camshaft cap to cylinder head mounting lines. Use a mirror to see the alignment so it is viewed straight on and not at an angle from above. Install the belt, built let it hang free at this point.
Click image to see an enlarged viewFig. 2: Exploded view of the timing belt, sprockets, cover and seals-2.5L engine
  1. Install the air conditioning compressor/alternator bracket, idler pulley and motor mount. Remove the floor jack. Raise the vehicle and support safely. Have the tensioner at an arm's reach because the timing belt will have to be held in position with one hand.
  2. To properly install the timing belt, reach up and engage it with the camshaft sprocket. Turn the intermediate shaft counterclockwise slightly, then engage the belt with the intermediate shaft sprocket. Hold the belt against the intermediate shaft sprocket and turn clockwise to take up all tension; if the timing marks are out of alignment, repeat until alignment is correct.
  3. Using a 13mm wrench, turn the crankshaft sprocket counterclockwise slightly and wrap the belt around it. Turn the sprocket clockwise so there is no slack in the belt between sprockets, if the timing marks are out of alignment, repeat until alignment is correct.

If the timing marks are in line but slack exists in the belt between either the camshaft and intermediate shaft sprockets or the intermediate and crankshaft sprockets, the timing will be incorrect when the belt is tensioned. All slack must be only between the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.

  1. Install the tensioner and install the mounting bolt loosely. Place special tensioning tool C-4703, or equivalent, on the hex of the tensioner so the weight is at about the 9 o'clock position (parallel to the ground, hanging to the left) plus or minus 15°.
  2. Hold the tool in position and tighten the bolt to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm). Do not pull the tool past the 9 o'clock position; this will make the belt too tight and will cause it to howl or possibly break.
  3. Lower the vehicle and recheck the camshaft sprocket positioning. If it is correct install the timing belt covers and all related parts.
  4. Connect the negative battery cable and road test the vehicle.
Mike V., Auto Mechanic
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 20238
Experience: 25 years automotive expierience, Nissan factory trained, Subaru factory trained.
Mike V. and 2 other Dodge Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
One more question.
Do i need to have the #1 Cylinder at TDC when i set the timing belt up?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 3 years ago.
Yes, it is best to have the crank at #1 TDC. then set the cam to the proper placement.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
So when i Align the crankshaft and intermediate shaft timing mark and have the cam set up with the timing hole on the timing gear at the top that will set the crank to be TDC at #1 and the cam will be set for the same.

Expert:  Mike V. replied 3 years ago.
Yes, when you line the crank timing mark, that should put it #1 tdc, then the intermediate shaft lines with the crank and the cam with the hole. Then you just put the belt on and it should be lined up. Once you have the belt on, rotate the engine by hand 4 times, this should bring all the timing marks back together. Not on the belt, but the engine. As long as they all come together on the engine, you are good to go.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Ok so i finaly have the belt on and all the marks line up right. But the belt has a whole lot of slack on the tension pulley side. When i set the tension it looks as if the belt is just on the odd brackett thing that is in the center of the motor. This is a new belt. The belt i took off origonaly has the same issue.
Any ideas as to what is going wrong hear.
Thanks
Expert:  Mike V. replied 3 years ago.
The slop should be there. I am not sure I can describe how much, here is what it says about the belt deflection.
  1. Install the tensioner and install the mounting bolt loosely. Place special tensioning tool C-4703, or equivalent, on the hex of the tensioner so the weight is at about the 9 o'clock position (parallel to the ground, hanging to the left) plus or minus 15°.
  2. Hold the tool in position and tighten the bolt to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm). Do not pull the tool past the 9 o'clock position; this will make the belt too tight and will cause it to howl or possibly break.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I did all that with the tension tool. I even tried 3 diffrent belts from 3 doiffrent manufactures and had the same result. The belt is so loose that the tool i had to by just falls past the point where the belt is at it tightest.
None of this matters much at this point. I set the belt as tight as i could and put the truck back togather. Its still burning coolent. I had it checked for leaks at the shop, i donbt know f**k it, i'm broke and not concerned with putting any more money in it.
Thanks for your help
Expert:  Mike V. replied 3 years ago.
If it is burning it, then it may be a bad head gasket. You are welcome for the help and I totally understand the frustration. It has to be a belt issue of some sort of course.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I'm going to give it a few days and try and re-torque the head then see where i'm at.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 3 years ago.
sounds like a good plan to be honest.
Mike V., Auto Mechanic
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 20238
Experience: 25 years automotive expierience, Nissan factory trained, Subaru factory trained.
Mike V. and 2 other Dodge Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Hi just looking for an opinion. I just re-torqued the head. I'm not getting a huge amount of white smoke like i did after the instalation of the head gasket. I'm just getting a little smoke and its blowing some liquid out the tail pipe. The other thing that is going on now is the motor is wanting to over heat at idle. It did not want to over heat befor i re-torqued it. Not shure what to do.

Do you think its worth pulling the whole head off a replacing the head gaskett once more? or should I just junk it? Thank you for your time.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 3 years ago.
Did you have the head planed before you did the head gasket?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Yes, I took the head in and and it shaved and checked for cracks.

Also. I just started to take it apart and now im seeing that its leaking oil. Cant see the exact spot it is comming from but its leaking from high up. It was not leaking at all untell i retorqued the head. Dam
Expert:  Mike V. replied 3 years ago.
I think you should get a price on a used engine that hasn't been apart.
it might be fairly cheap, especially if you can install it yourself. Save you a boatload of aggravation and you can keep the truck. You obviously like it or you wouldn't have gone this far :)
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Shit. WIsh i could. I'm broke and unemployed. Off to the junk yard
Ok thank you for your help
Expert:  Mike V. replied 3 years ago.
Ok, well make sure you are torquing the head correctly. It should seal since you had the head shaved and cleaned up. If you don't have a manual, let me know I can get you the sequence and torque. Most of the time it has to be done in steps. Make sure you are following those steps.

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