Customer welcome to Just Answer!.
If you have a digital voltmeter, I think we could check a few things.
The PCM in this year has very accessible connectors. We'll need to remove the wire covers on the back (visible) side of the connectors for testing and then some way to backprobe the circuits through the weatherpack while they're still connected to the controller.
Since your PCM isn't (apparently) able to perform a MIL bulb test at key-on, there may be a shorted circuit or you may have a power or ground missing. Since you've checked fuses, we can move straight to the circuit tests.
You will need to remove the connectors at least at first to find the numbering for pin positions. The red lock tabs on the connector sides just need to be slip up a bit, then you can squeeze the release tabs and pull the connectors off.
Note that one connector is numbered 1 thru 40, the other 41 thru 80.
Let's start with the connectors off. Powers and grounds are as follows...
10 Ground (tan/ black)
20 Fused ignition switch output (dark blue/ white)
46 Battery positive (red/ tan)
47 Ground (black)
50 Ground (black/ tan).
Make sure you have a good strong signal on all these pins. Use of a test light or another load device (something to actually draw a little amperage) is useful in discriminating between a weak connection and one that's OK.
As long as the connectors are off, test for continuity between these sources and vehicle ground...
32 Crankshaft position sensor signal (grey/ black)
33 Camshaft position sensor signal (tan/ yellow)
44 8v supply to cam/ crank sensors (orange/ white)
61 5v supply to MAP, TPS, A/C pressure transducer (violet/ white).
Any continuity to ground with both PCM connectors disconnected indicate an undesirable situation. You might leave the DMM connected to this circuit and begin wiggling wires and disconnecting affected circuits. Write back if this is the case.
Now connect the PCM and we can do some backprobing. The tool you use for bypassing the weatherpack around the wires needs to do so without tearing the seals. Water will ultimately find its way in and cause all kinds of havoc. A paper clip is commonly used, just make sure the end you insert to take your readings isn't sharp or rough.
The first checks will be to the 5v and 8v circuits. With the key on, you should have a very good signal from both. The 5v circuit will read extremely close to 5.0 volts, where the 8v circuit can be between 8 and 9 volts. Let me know what you find if one or both are outside this range.
If they both check out, you can check your cam and crank sensor signals from this point now. The circuit will read either zero or 5v, depending upon the sensor to reluctor relationship. It should change as you rotate the engine and a signal state change is created. If the signal remains low or high, never changing, it means either the reluctor isn't moving/ passing by the sensor or the sensor is mispositioned or just not working. The crank sensor needs to be positioned, the cam sensor is set for life. Until it dies...
That's about the extent of it. Somewhere along the line you may see a voltage reading out of line. Let me know what the circuit affected is and we'll get to the bottom of it.
If it happens to be the 5v or 8v power feed, you can disconnect the cam sensor (distributor connector, larger one), the crank sensor or the A/C pressure transducer and see if the voltage returns. If it does, that part is conclusively found to be junk at this point.
Write back when you can.