Thanks, Forrest. You pretty much answered the part about the CHECK ENGINE lamp by telling me the engine will run if fuel is poured into the throttle body. That tells me the PCM is awake and producing spark.
While you're out there, you may be able to pull some codes from the engine controller. You use the same CHECK ENGINE lamp to extract flash codes. If your battery is low, get the codes first, so they won't be lost later.
To put the powertrain control module (engine controller/PCM) into diagnostic mode, you turn the ignition key from off to on three times or more within five seconds. Leave the key in the on position to get the flash codes.
The light will burn a bit longer than you're used to seeing once you enter diagnostic mode. At the completion of the burn, the light will go out and pause for several seconds. Blinking starts after that.
All codes it dispenses will be binary, having two digits. The first set of flashes will indicate the first number. A short pause separates the two digits, then the second one is flashed.
At the completion of that code, you will have a longer pause before the next set is flashed. It goes on like this until you read code 55, which means end-of-test. You should always get 55 if the system is working properly. Repeat the test as many times as it takes for you to become familiar with the drill... you'll catch on fast. Let me know what codes you see.
Now, the fuse. I have wiring schematics available to me today, but I probably couldn't determine which fuse it is without a name (number/ circuit ID) from the fuse cover index.
Having your fuel pump hard-wired sure indicates to me that there have been issues in the past with that cirucuit. Sounds like you bought it that way. But you're still having problems getting the fuel pump running? If you can (I know, this is getting long), let me know what's been modified and what manner it was done in.
Back to work now. We'll talk later. Ed