Hi, welcome to jA.
Thanks for the info. Sounds like you have a typical IAC (Idle Air Control) valve failure. The IAC controls the engine idle at all times, dependant on the engine computer's inputs. Typically, the valve becomes gummed from carbon and will stick in the open position on a cold start, this allows too much air to enter the engine's intake and thus the engine keeps stalling. In most cases, giving the engine throttle, will help allow it to run. Now, at this milage the valve most likely has been replaced at least once, if not; it becomes even more of a suspect. The valve is correctly tested thru the factory scan tool; but I would like you to attempt cleaning it and the IAC ports in the throtle body. Purchase some throtlr body cleaner from your local parts supplier, remove the valve and spray down the ports as well as the valve itself - keeping cleaner out of the electrical connector area. Technically these valves are not cleanable, and are to be replaced according to factory porocedures, however I have had luck cleaning them in mild failures such as yours, even if the symptoms change at least we'll know if the cleaning the valve caused them to change. Also, try using an old toothbrush to scrub the IAC ports, and the throtle body, gently. Below is an illustration of the location of the IAC valve. After the cleaning, remove the negative battery cable for aboout 30 seconds, and than reinstall it, this is to reset the fuel trim and idle strategy to default. Upon starting up after the cleaning, hold the gas pedal to the floor to help clear the cleaner added to the throtle body.
No problem...take the time you need. Also, remember to have them clean the IAC ports and the throlte body to help prevent the new one from gumming up. Thanks,
I'm glad everything worked out, be sure you have the throtle body and blade cleaned, otherwise the carbon will choke up the new valve. You should set the idle thru the factory scan tool, but I haven't had a problem disconnecting the battery, or disconnecting the battery and touching the two cables together - both manual PCM reset methods. Please accept the post if this has been helpful, feedback is appreciated. Any comments, or problems can always be sent to email@example.com
Yes, use an old toothbrush to gently scrub down the blade as well, and the throtle bore. It's a simple procedure, which can go a long way for the performance. Use the cleaner sparingly, so you don't flood the intake with cleaner, you can do the cleaning in sections and run the engine in between to help burn the cleaner as you go. Also, when you first fire the engine after each cleaning, put the gas to the floor, this clears the 'flooding' of the cleaner, before she fires. Let me know if you need any help during the procedure. A clean throtle body will make a big difference.