First, we need to get the engine to stall where you can test for good spark and fuel. You may have a faulty fuel pump. How many miles are on the vehicle? When it stalls, spray some carburator cleaner into the intake by removing the air duct, spraying a liberal amount in, then resecuring it. Crank and see if the engine will momentarily run on the starting fluid. If not, pull a plug wire/coil and check for good strong spark. Let me know your outcome.
The pump is a common failure, but we do need to verify it's failure. Do you have access to a inexpensive voltmeter? We also need to verify physical fuel pressure and flow with an injection guage, usually sold at parts stores as well.
The probabilities when no fuel reaches the engine can be: Possible ECU (computer), fuel pump, fuel pump relay, wiring, or the fuel filter.
The problem on this vehicle is the fuel filter is part of a pressure regulator unit on top of the fuel tank, so when the fuel pump is deemed faulty, the entire assembly is replaced. Let me know if you have access to any of the above tools, so I can instruct you on the testing. If not, have someone turn the key ON, and listen near the fuel tank underneath for a light buzzing, this indicated the fuel pump is comming on, if no noise is hear, it may be faulty or not receiving power. Try banging gently on the gas tank with a hammer, while someone is cranking, this often will 'shock' the pump into working, and will further condemn it's failure.
Alright, hook up the pressure guage to the test port on the fuel rail under the hood, turn the key ON, the guage should read between 35-45 psi - what is your reading. if nothing shows, try turning the key off, then back on, if still nothing, crank it. Let me know the outcome.
Sounds like the Fuel Pressure Regulator is faulty, but it's part of the Fuel Filter on top of the tank. Another concern is that it may be your only problem, and isn't an expensive part, but there's a small possibility that the check valve in the Fuel Pump is bad, or the pump itself. Therefore, we replace the entire Fuel Pump Module with the pressure Regulator/Filter to keep from removing the tank twice, since there's no testing possible to distinguish between the two failures. If you don't mind removing the tank twice it would be a good investment since the difference in price between the Pump Module and the Regulator is great. Most pump failures I see, cause 0-10 psi at key ON, and cranking. 45 psi sounds like the pump is trying to do it's job. What if you have someone crank the engine and gently bang on the tank after it has stalled and see if it wants to restart and run? Below is a pic of the Regulator/Filter.