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Curtis B.
Curtis B., Technician
Category: Construction and Road Equipment
Satisfied Customers: 25627
Experience:  Technican turned service manager with multiple lines of equipment and rental units.
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Deere 310 backhoe with shuttle shifter has no forward or

Customer Question

John Deere 310 backhoe with shuttle shifter has no forward or reverse . Has new clutch packs, piston seals, torque converter, and pump. It has over 100 psi pump pressure just ahead of the shift valve, but no pressure to reverse. While partially disassembled, air pressure to piston ports would activate pistons and engage clutch packs. I have checked the shift valve for broken springs or broken roll pin, and all are good. Where do I go next?
Submitted: 4 months ago.
Category: Construction and Road Equipment
Expert:  Dan replied 4 months ago.

Hi my name is***** is the complete model and serial number of your machine?

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
It is a 310C. I don't have the serial number. However, it is just a simple reverser with forward and reverse, no other gears. The transaxle is separated by a short driveshaft allowing for 4 gear changes in the transaxle.
Customer: replied 4 months ago.
I have also tested the disengage solenoid and it functions. The coil will grab a screwdriver when it was removed and activated. I also removed the shift valve, assembled the disengage coil, excited the coil and could feel the plunger inside the valve move. There appears to be something between the valve and the forward or reverse ports where I'm loosing pressure. Any suggestions ? When I reassembled the clutch packs, I also replaced the shaft seals where the forward clutch assembly mates with the planetary.
Customer: replied 4 months ago.
Posted by JustAnswer at customer's request) Hello. I would like to request the following Expert Service(s) from you: Provide Diagrams, Manuals, or Instructions. Let me know if you need more information, or send me the service offer(s) so we can proceed.
Expert:  Curtis B. replied 4 months ago.

You say you tested the disengage solenoid, but did you remove the valve and check it. Just because the solenoid coil works, does not mean the valve itself is working, it may be dumping the pressure!

Expert:  Curtis B. replied 4 months ago.

I am here this AM. Did you check the declutch/disengage valve?

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
I removed the roll pin in the valve and disassembled it to check for debris, broken springs, damaged pistons etc. and found nothing obvious. I removed the snap ring from the other end and checked it for the same and all seems ok. I then reassembled the parts back into the original position. By using a small flat punch I checked for free movement of the little pistons and all move freely with just spring resistance.
I am curious about one thing. In the gasket kit the sealing rings for the shaft that couples into the planetary housing are some kind of soft flexible material. Should those be steel with notched ends that couple together? Could they be leaking? Also, could you possibly call me at(###) ###-#### That could save a lot of time messaging back and fourth.
Customer: replied 4 months ago.
Oh, yesterday I clicked the section on justanswer that said call me, but it wouldn't take the last two numbers of my phone number. I'm not worried about the fee, I just want to get this thing done.
Expert:  Curtis B. replied 4 months ago.

You pressure checked the clutches before you closed it up, so we know the clutches do not leak, so they are not getting pressure. If the declutch is ok, it could be leaking at the seals you speak of. Where the originals the metal seals? New seals may be teflon and are hard to get installed and can be cut on installation. I just prefer to use the metal seal rings, as they are easier to install without damage.

Expert:  Curtis B. replied 4 months ago.

I don't have a service manual, showing the flow to the clutches, but there has to be leakage before the clutch pack

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
I agree with the leakage before the clutches, but its driving me crazy trying to find it. The original seals I was talking about were steel, however, the problem occurred with them still in there. I replaced clutch fibers and put it back together. It functioned fine for about four hours and lost forward. I took it back out, tore it down, replaced the pump, even though it looked pretty good, reassembled and installed, and nothing would work. Took it back out, replaced the torque converter, complete seal kit, checked everything again, cleared all passages with the air hose, and back together and in. This time I put a pressure gage in the plug before the valve and had over 100 psi. When I put the gage in the reverse port I got nothing.
Also, when I took it back apart, the little Teflon rings appeared good. No cuts, peeled edges, broken overlaps, nothing.
Expert:  Curtis B. replied 4 months ago.

You only get 100 psi? That is pretty low, and nothing in reverse? When you went back in, and replaced the fibers, did you pressure check the clutch pack seals again? And reverse clutch pack seals? With zero in reverse, either the seals are cut, or you are not getting fluid to the clutch pack. No fluid would mean the control valve is bypassing.

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
When I took the pressure reading all I had was a 5000 psi gage, so the reading was over 100 psi, possibly close to 200 psi, but the increments were so small it was hard to read. That's also when I checked for piston activation again and they worked with air. I'm pretty certain its dumping in the area of the valve, but I haven't found where. That's also when I started questioning the Teflon seals because if they were blown there would be no pressure to either direction also.
I guess I'll tear it completely down again and check every nook and cranny. Its hard to swallow that I'm stumped by a basically simple transmission. I have to leave for work now , so I'll be away from the computer until tonight.
Expert:  Curtis B. replied 4 months ago.

oK> I would not rule out the declutch.

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
As a follow up on the declutch, I removed the valve, put air to the orifice that feeds forward and neutral, moved the internal plunger with a slender punch, and the flow turned on and off depending upon the position of the internal piston. I cant get back to it until Thursday, but I'm going to take the internal plunger from the solenoid portion apart to check for something defective that could allow the small piston to open to dump. Perhaps the spring in the coil spool is weak or broken and not holding the plunger against the piston. If you have any ideas on this angle, I will appreciate your input.
Expert:  Curtis B. replied 4 months ago.

I was wrong about the pressure required, it only needs to be in the 120 psi range, Other than that, I don't have anything to add, sorry.

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