No worries, carry on. I'll be back at work tomorrow, and I'm typically busy the full day at work, don't really have time to check in here during the week until I get home in the evening myself. With that said I figured I'd give you a little more information.
Assuming we find we do have a problem with the shutdown solenoid itself, or a problem with the circuit that controls the solenoid. The way that solenoid works, it has three wires, red, white, and black. Black wire is ground (earth). Red wire powers the hold coil inside the solenoid, white wire powers the pull coil. Both hold and pull circuits are controlled by the main controller (ECM)
The two separate coils, pull and hold, have a purpose. The hold coil (magnetic coil) is what "holds" the spool of the solenoid retracted in the solenoid body, but it does not have enough magnetic power to "pull" the spool in from the fully extended position, that's where the "pull" coil comes into play. The way it works, when you power up the ignition, the ECM sends power to booth red (hold) and white (pull) wires. This pulls the spool fully retracted in the solenoid. Once this happens the ECM takes power away from the white wire because it can only have power for a few seconds (momentary) or it will burn up that coil. The power for the red wire comes directly from the ECM. The power for the white wire comes from the "fuel" relay inside the fuse box, that relay (on/off) is controlled by the ECM.
The Bobcat ECM is very good at noticing problems with circuits that it controls, and it will report these situations via trouble codes, this includes problems with the fuel solenoid. However, I have seen many instances, let's say the pull coil inside the shutdown solenoid is still functional, but it's getting weak from age. The ECM doesn't yet see a problem because it hasn't failed completely, but it's failing enough to cause a no start. My point, shutdown solenoid is going bad but the ECM can't see that just yet. So yes, it becomes a "parts swap" method of troubleshooting, but many times this is the case in this situation. I can't say with certainty this is your problem, but with absence of trouble codes, 9 times out of 10 it's a tired solenoid and a new one remedies the problem.
BTW, if you do replace that shutdown solenoid, linkage length adjustment is critical. The spool of the solenoid "has to" be fully bottomed into the solenoid body when it retracts. If, when it pulls the run/stop lever on the injection pump, and that run/stop lever hits its stops inside the pump, and at that time the spool of the solenoid isn't fully bottomed out inside the solenoid body it will burn up the solenoid. Adjust the linkage length so the solenoid spool is fully bottomed inside the solenoid when run/stop lever is in run position.