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I've already done the search for hidden screws. There are no rubber covers, and the only accessible screws are the VESA mount.
Between the facia and the back cover there is a third layer of plastic into which I am convinced the front and back irreversibly clip.
Yes, I have also tried that approach, but the bezel is so tightly attached that even a finger nail doesn't get in. If I didn't believe "better", I would think it had been glued on, as there is no give in the "gap" at any point, and I have thoroughly gone around both sides of this extra plastic layer and have failed to find any points where entry can be gained to loosen clips.
Finger nail was only an example. I have even tried Razor-thin (box cutter blades, etc.) and achieved no penetration.
A screw-driver blade of the size you describe only does external damage.
I still remain unsure. If a box cutter blade cannot achieve penetration, then I am not satisfied that a plastic tool would achieve entry either. I note the model in the video has a very wide WHITE surround which is part of the back cover. This would seem to be equivalent to the third layer of plastic (black) that I mentioned previously, except that it LOOKS like I should be able to detach from either side. It is only 5mm thick, and clearly not part of the molding of the front or back.
Expecting that the interior at the back will have full RF shielding, I guess I will have to use a hole saw very carefully, and then glue the fan over the hole. Obviously, if the monitor dies, then it becomes sacrificial to maintain the rest of them.
Overheating is a major problem in Australia. It's 23:30 real time, air-conditioner going flat out and room temperature is still 28C.
I have equivalent (except not plastic) tools right down down to the micro-star for opening iPhones here and have not achieved any penetration (even in corners) which is why I'm starting to think it's glued. Despite having tried previously, I have followed all your instruction and repeated my actions as you've instructed them.
The last time I had need of a super-specialized tool was the foot-long torx Mac-cracker.
While clips are my natural expectation, penetration with the most appropriate tool available still failed. As this monitor has some other problems, it can be sacrificed when it finally fails.
Maybe this extra layer between front and back is the secret. If necessary, I can then use a chisel!
As I said, this monitor had other faults, so I was prepared to sacrifice it.
CONCESSION: I found the clips subject to the following qualifications:
1. The amount of overlap between the layers of plastic is nearly 2mm and a VERY tight fit, which is why nothing could penetrate.
2. Because of the extra thickness, finding a clip with the appropriate tool was still like winning the lottery--I shall be going around my "fleet" and putting little dots in the correct locations but, the apparent ease with which the tool was slid in the video is not likely with this particular model (unless I encountered the usual rarity for me and got one that was slightly mis-molded.
Therefore, despite this particular model not quite fitting all the usual expectations, I now consider my question answered. $22.00 to save $3000 worth of monitors is a good investment.
The buzzing sounds like a coil, and it only happens when things are overly warm (4am and it's 28C even with air-con, so convection doesn't stand a chance). As I said to Freddy M, this monitor had another problem (bruised screen from shipping) but it's out of warranty. If I can audibly track it down to a particular component, that type of work is not a problem.If it's a capacitor, super easy. If it's a coil, then getting it as a spare part could be a nightmare.
The problem that I faced was getting the thing open. The case was a very tight fit and even with an appropriate tool, finding the release clips was like winning the lottery.
Now that it's naked and hanging back on the wall, it hasn't misbehaved (yet).
In all fairness, how do I direct my payment (or part) to Freddy M? He was exceptionally patient in going through the casing issue.
It's easier for me just to accept. As you've both made an effort, and I've mostly achieved what I set out to do. I think it only fair that you both get something for your work. I'm too stupid and don't charge people enough!
PS: Forced cooling has worked in the past. I've encountered the occasional display where the super-fine soldering to the LCD panel get flaky in the heat, and I don't have the sorts of tools required to fix that. Where does one find a pin-point soldering iron that can stay hot enough? A couple of USB powered fans in just the right spot has extended their useful life considerably.
The soldering iron question was rhetorical. Now that I'm inside the unit I'll be fine. I also be marking where the clip-tags are on the rest of the "fleet".
PS: I tipped you a bit extra.
UPDATE: Since the successful removal of the cover and while awaiting arrival of fans, the naked monitor has been hung on the wall again.
Despite yesterday being hotter than the day before, there has been no misbehavior of the screen, and no buzzes.
I think I'll wait for Winter and then try to track down the sensitive component with a heat gun.
I appreciate the seven-day offer but, the chances of asking a similar type of question inside the next week are very slim.
Given the price of repairing/replacing the monitor, $22.00 was an excellent investment and I have certainly made a point of saving a link to this site should a future curly/obscure situation arise.
Following on from this now "stale" question, I hope you were adequately able to share payment with Freddy. I have searched for the plastic "separation tool" to no avail. What is the correct name for such a tool, and where would I obtain one?