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My name is ***** ***** I am a professional here at Just Answer. I noticed that your question had not received a response and thought I would see if you still need help with this.I apologize for the delay and I hope I can still assist you with this here.My info is somewhat limited on your model here but I had seen no one else has responded and would like to see if I can help here.If at any time you feel that I cannot help with this please let me know.
If the starter was not replaced this may be the cause here.I have seen internal failure of starters in the past before that can cause a fault like this here with the starter assembly needing replaced.I would check into this further to see if this is the cause here.If this was already checked into and found o.k. let me know.
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Unfortunately this is all of the info I have on this here myself.
I will open your question up for others here to see if someone else can assist further on this as there may be others here that may have more info on what to check or do with this issue.I hope you can get this resolved with ease.No need to reply to my last post here unless it is a last resort as it will keep your question locked to me and others will not be able to view it.If you feel you want to continue to work with me on this feel free to reply at any time but keep in mind in some cases it can be difficult to fully diagnose or help repair this without seeing your vehicle.
It appears to me as though the teeth are sticking. I don't know why Ford designed a starter like this that really has no way of shimming it. I've seen shims made for these kind of starters but I never did understand how they were supposed to work cause they don't shim the starter further or closer away from the flywheel, just closer or further away from the transmission bell housing because the starter bolts are horizontal instead of vertical.
If the starter retracts just fine with no spark plugs in then it should also do so with them in, cause when the engine starts, it should throw the gear back in. that small return spring doesn't do much.
Somehow, I believe you are going to have to move the starter away from the flywheel. If there is any play at all when the starter bolts are loosened, then try loosening them, pry out on the starter, away from the flywheel and then tighten the bolts.
My mistake, I don't know what to say then except I would hate to tell you the problem is with the flywheel.
I am not going to say that, since it sounds like that is an expensive flywheel and I don't want to get you removing a transmission if it isn't going to fix it, so I am just going to opt out and maybe just maybe another expert on here knows what the problem is.
I see your question has been unattended for over one day.
As the previous tech has already said, I feel your flywheel is the cause of your trouble.
I would have aborted the cam run-in once I knew the starter had not released.
The run-in could be resumed at a later time.
35 minutes of pinion to ring gear is certainly the cause.
I also cannot see how you could run a 9t or 10t pinion on the same ring gear.
I hope the flywheel was neutral balanced on it's own first, before complete engine balancing.
Sorry for bad news.
I think you should take your failed starter motor back to where you bought it.
I see starters with 9, 10, and 11 teeth.
I can't see how a different teeth count can mesh correctly.
Have you got it out, and what do the flywheel teeth look like?