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Do you have voltage to the instrument cluster?
If so check the ground. I see the ground coming from pin D1 of the instrument cluster. Power to pins C16, and D16 for ignition power from cluster fuse #16, and pin D5 for battery power from LCD fuse #3. I have included the instrument cluster wiring diagram.
Here is a diagram showing the layout of the fuse block.
Are you asking if the ignition control module could cause this?
Did those fuses I mentioned have voltage on both sides of the fuse?
I believe it's called an engine control module on this vehicle. not that little box but what you are referring to as the ignition control module. But there is a HEI module, which I believe is inside the distributor.
If you hook a hand held tach to the distributor tach terminal does it work?
Is the computer you refer to under the dash on the right side?
I thought you opened this post by saying the tach didn't work?
Anyhow, I don't know what that little box is, I don't know if the computer could cause this until after you confirm that those 2 fuses have voltage to and from, the ground is ok and there is power at those pins, then I will try to figure out if the computer could cause this but right now , I doubt it.
Perhaps take a photo of that box, write down what wire colors go to and from it and any numbers off of it.
Ok, again you say the tach don't work but you just said before that it did.
You should be able to post the photo here.
Post it online somewhere and then send me the link. like http://imgur.com/
I see it as a DELAYED INTERIOR LIGHT TIMER
You are welcome.
Go back then and answer those questions, do you have voltage on both sides of them fuses?
To remind you, Power to pins C16, and D16 for ignition power from cluster fuse #16, and pin D5 for battery power from LCD fuse #3.
Ok, you could have said that. Now how about the ground?
Also, do you have voltage at those pins I mentioned. You have never mentioned this either.
To both of those pins? But you have voltage at both sides of those fuses? Well the that is the problem. find a repair the wire/s or run new wire/s.
What? From those fuses. I thought we have been over this numerous times.
You said you don't have any voltage? Voltage where? To what pins don't you have voltage to?
Yes there is fusible link that feeds that #3 fuse.
Fuse #16 is fed from the ignition switch.
The key has to be on run for fuse #16 and pins C16 and D16.
No, the fusible link would be before the fuse box.
Let me ask this again,
Do you have voltage to pin C16?
Do you have voltage to pin D16?
Do you have voltage to D5?
If fuse #16, remember the key has to be on run.
Didn't you look at that second wiring diagram I gave you that I said shows the fuse box layout?
If not, go back and look at it. The fuses from what I see run from the top left corner down the left column, then move to the right.
So fuse 3 would be the second one down from the top left.
Fuse 16 would be at the top of the forth column with columns going from top to bottom.
So which was it?
Sorry, 3rd one down, not second.
It goes starting from the top left is fuse #1, then #2 is just below it. There are 5 fuses in the first column. Then #6 would be at the top of the 3rd column. #11 at the top of the 3rd column and #16 at the top of the 4th column.
If your fuse block doesn't look like that one let me know.
What are you talking about.
Didn't have power to what?
Number 15 and 16 what?
Are you sure the key is on run?
If so, that fuse is fed from the ignition switch and before that, a rust colored fusible link.
That fusible link in under the hood over near the brake master cylinder.
Here is a diagram showing the fusible links,
check in and out of the ignition switch
Did you check in and out of the ignition switch?
The ignition switch, if the ignition lock cylinder is on the steering column, then the ignition switch is usually at the bottom of the steering column, still inside the car, under the dash. let me see if I can find a diagram.
Yes, just where I said. Look at this diagram.
It would be a red wire coming in. Actually just make sure both red wires coming in have voltage. Then with the key on run or switch on run if you pulled the switch off it's the pink wire that goes to fuse #16.
Honestly, I don't think it's going to be a bad ignition switch because you would have been complaining about a lot more things. That same pink wire feeds the distributor, so if there was no voltage because of a bad ignition switch the engine wouldn't' run, plus the same ignition switch pin feeds fuses 5, 12, 13, 14 and the very same exact pink wire feeds fuse 16 as well as fuses 17, 18 and 19. So depending o what don't work, it might give us a clue as to where the problem is from that ignition switch and if you look at the wiring diagram you will notice a splice where that one pink wire from the ignition switch splices out to 4 pink wires. So, it is possible that just that one pink wire might be shorted to ground, short circuits or open.
is there anything else on this car that don't work? If so, name everything that don't work.
Ok, answer me this. With the key on run, do you have voltage to fuses 17, 18 and 19?
And fuse #16 has no voltage with the key on run?
Then I would remove that fuse box and take a look at the back of it and see what is going on there.
So there is no need to worry about the ignition switch anymore since that very same pink wire feeds all of those fuses, 16, 17, 18 and 19.
I've heard of spiders getting in there and their webs creating problems like this.
Had what? I know you are texting from a phone but you have to be more specific.
So you do have voltage to fuse #16?
Do you have voltage at pins C16 and D16 of the instrument cluster, with the key on run?
Ok, then we already went over this a long time ago.
At 1:01pm I said, "To both of those pins? But you have voltage at both sides of those fuses? Well the that is the problem. find a repair the wire/s or run new wire/s."
I would still pull that fuse box out and check the back of it, then check for voltage along both pink/black wires from that #16 fuse to those pins C16 and D16 of the instrument cluster, checking for voltage at each connection until you find out what is wrong.
So we back at the beginning, there is voltage to the instrument cluster at pins C16 and D16 Ok, then is there voltage at the other pin, the pin D5 from that LCD fuse #3?
Ok, check that ground from pin D1 of the instrument cluster
Tell me everything ion the instrument cluster that don't work and also tell me what does work, including the illumination.
Ok, I get that the instrument cluster light do work.
What do you mean "no ground"?
Run a jumper to a good metal ground from that pin d1 and see if them gauges work now.
Tell me everything ion the instrument cluster that don't work and also tell me what does work
Still what don't work? Tell me everything on the instrument cluster that don't work and also tell me what does work
Ok, what are the things that don't work and be sure to name them all.
What do you mean by 'range"?
Also, what do you mean by "average mileage"?
Ok, check for voltage at gauges fuse 317.
#17, not 317
Wait, you just said you did have voltage at 17 didn't you?
Ok, at the telltale assembly, check for voltage from that #17 fuse to pin 14 of that telltale assembly. Key on run.
Ok, this post will be closed by then.