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K. Wiggins
K. Wiggins, Classic Car Mechanic
Category: Classic Car
Satisfied Customers: 1484
Experience:  AA in Auto Tech, Classic car restorer and enthusiast
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mustang 1968: I ask you about my 1968 mustang brakes that we

Resolved Question:

I ask you about my 1968 mustang brakes that we are having trouble getting the air out of lines. we have new lines,brakes,master cylinder & pressure pump to get the air out. Its not working ???? Are we going to get help with this ???
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Classic Car
Expert:  Dave Nova replied 2 years ago.
Hello and thank you for trusting me with your question. My name is XXXXX XXXXX I will do my best to help you with your Classic Car problem.

Have you tried using a vacuum pump to bleed the system?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

We have tryed the vacuum pump, we down to by passing the equalizeler vaule from front to back to see if is working the way it should.

Expert:  Dave Nova replied 2 years ago.
When bleeding brakes the conventional way of pumping the brake pedal, do you get good fluid flow/pressure to each of the four brakes?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

we have tryed all of your anwsers so far.
the equalizeler vaule is between front and back so we though it could make trouble????

Expert:  Dave Nova replied 2 years ago.

When bleeding brakes the conventional way of pumping the brake pedal, do you get good fluid flow/pressure to each of the four brakes?

Customer: replied 2 years ago.


We had three people working on the brake at same time. one master, tokeep full, one pumping brakes, one bleeding at the bleeder. we still get air.

Expert:  Dave Nova replied 2 years ago.
Okay, not sure I have more to add that can help you. I will opt out so other experts can help you with this problem.
Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 2 years ago.

Hi, I can help you with this. The very first thing is to bench bleed the master cylinder before installing on vehicle. If you continue to get air while bench bleeding, the master is defective. Fill master in vise and push rear of piston all the way in, put finger over ports to prevent air being sucked in before releasing or you can use a bleeding tool that screws into the ports with a hose attached going into master reservoir below fluid level. Keep pushing piston in & out until there is a steady stream of fluid with no air comming out both outlet ports and inside reservoir. If you continue to get air, the master is defective. Once master is bench bled, install on vehicle and bleed at outlet ports where lines attach, then bleed at both sides of proportioning valve starting at inlet side, then outlet side before going to wheels. Rule #1, Never release brake pedal with line or bleeder open. Always close line or bleeder before releasing brake pedal. If you do, this will suck air back into the system. Once you get to the wheels, run a hose from bleeder into a jar of brake fluid. Hose must be submerged in the fluid in jar. Continue bleeding until there are no air bubbles present before going to next wheel. Start at right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. If you cannot get pressure out the outlet port of proportioning valve or pressure to rear brakes, let me know.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.

I said that we had tryed everthing your people tolded me we have tryed. I was hoping you could come up with something to help us along. We are taking the wheel cylineder apart to see if something is wrong.

Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 1 year ago.

I am a different expert. First of all what I have told you in detail was not mentioned in any of the replies. It's one thing to say you've done everything, but did you do it exactly as I explained it, in the order that I explained it. Did you first bench bleed the master with no air and a steady stream of fluid appearing in reservoir and outlet ports? After installing master did you bleed first at outlet ports where the lines connect at master then, did you bleed at combination valve, inlet first, outlet last before going to wheels? Did you then connect a hose from bleeder into and submersed in a jar of brake fluid and bled brakes until there was no air bubbles in jar?

Tell me about the lines you installed. Did you replace all steel brake lines? Are they all double flared fittings connected properly. Have you checked with a soapy solution where the lines connect while pumping brake pedal to check for air bubbles at connections? I am willing to help you solve your problem. Please do not give feedback until you are satisfied.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Relist: Other.
We are getting answers that we have tryed. I was hopeing for som reason that this happening and that it is not the first time it has ever happened before. we have talk to the people we got all of parts from with no help.
Expert:  K. Wiggins replied 1 year ago.
Unless the master cylinder is leaking internally the reason for this problem is a bad connection that is allowing air to enter the system as ASEMaster stated. There is no magic bullet fix for this. It is a problem that will need to be solved by following a methodical process, beginning by bleeding at the master cylinder and ending up at the wheels.
During each step of the process you should see fluid eventually come out. Starting from the master cylinder connections, to the splitter valve and so on.
Begin at the master cylinder and have someone pump the brakes while spraying all line connections with a soapy water solution to observe for air leaks. Check EVERY connection for EVERY line.
K. Wiggins, Classic Car Mechanic
Category: Classic Car
Satisfied Customers: 1484
Experience: AA in Auto Tech, Classic car restorer and enthusiast
K. Wiggins and 2 other Classic Car Specialists are ready to help you

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