1973 mustang mach 1 302. Engine was running rough and car turned off. Car will not start now. I replaced the coil, new rotor cap, and the module in the rotor. I even have bran new spark plug wires. No spark coming from the wires (I checked by putting a screw driver into the spark plug. No arc). I'm thinking it could be fuseable linkage wire? So new coil, new spark wires, new module and points, new coil, new cap new voltage regulator. STILL NOTHING! Car will crank but will not start. And yes, I am getting gas into the carburetor.
New coil, new spark wires, new module and points, new coil, new cap new voltage regulator. STILL NOTHING! Car will crank but will not start. And yes, I am getting fuel.
Glad to be of help. First check for 12 volts at coil+ with test light. If you have voltage there, check at coil negative while cranking. If you have a flash pulse on-off-on-off as you crank, the problem is either coil,cap or rotor. If you have no flash pulse at coil negative, the problem is either ignition module or pick up coil. I am assuming you have electronic ignition since you mentioned module but you also mentioned points so I'm not sure what you have. Let me know if you have stock ignition with points or an aftermarket ignition system. Also tell me the brand name and model if aftermarket. It is also possible a wire is shorting out. If you have points, what is your dwell?
Where is the ignition Modual?
Hi, if you have points, you won't have an ignition module. the ignition module takes the place of points.
I hve stock ignition with points
origonal 302 with orig distributor.
It's a 1973 mustang
Ok, first check at coil+ for 12 volts when cranking and 9 volts in run position.
unfortunately I do not have a tester for Volts. Is there a way I can jerry rig something together to test that?
Get a test light. They are $5 at a parts store. the light will be bright if 12 volts and dimmer if less. Your ignition switch supplies 12 volts in crank position through the starter relay for starting then goes through a resistor wire comming from ignition switch for run position. If you have voltage starting but not in run, you may need a new resistor wire. Also check to see if the wire from coil negative to distributor is grounding out where it goes through distributor.
You may also have a shorted condenser.
You can get a resistor wire here: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1973-Ford-Mustang/Ballast-Resistor/_/N-ip7f3Z9n86a if needed. Harbor freight has the best prices for tools.
If you have no voltage at coil+ with key on, the problem is either the resistor wire or ignition switch if lights come on the dash. If lights on dash do not come on, you have a blown fuseable link.
I'm switching to Q&A format to be notified of your response.
im back sorry
I got disconnected
I have a new condensor
I put a new one in
And thanks again for your help
It doesnt go unappreciated
You need to check for voltage with a test light.
What did you mean by grounding out with wire from coil/?
The black wire that connects to coil negative goes directly to the distributor through a rubber grommet to the points.
I know that
but am I looking for a defect in the wire?
What did you mean by "grounding out"
If the wire looses it's insulation, it can ground out at the distributor body where it enters.
It's really hard to tell just looking at it, you will have to pull it out to inspect it. But we are gettin ahead of ourselves here. Get a test light and check to see if it lights up at coil+ with key on.
I can do that now actually
I will go to the store
how long will you be on for?
Coil negative will only light up when the points close, that why you crank engine to check for pulse. I will be on all night. Get back to me when you can. I'll switch to Q&A format so they will notify me by email and we can continue.
Are your points set at .016?
A dwell meter would be the most accurate way to check dwell.
My points are set to "matchbook" thickness
I dont know how far apart they should be
I have no way of measuring it
If you have a feeler gauge, it should be .016 with the distributor cam on the highest point. Matchbook is close but not accurate. Dwell meter is the most accurate and you want as close to 30 degrees as possible.
is there something in the household I could grab to be a makeshift .016
not really. feeler gauges are cheap. Do you have a Harbor frieght store in your area?
I'll check what they have and the cost for you. What zip code do you live in?
Santa Clarita, CA
Feeler gauge is $3.99 at O' reillys: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFM0/W80525.oap?ck=Search_feeler+gauge_-1_3074&keyword=feeler+gauge
A dwell/volt meter you can get at sears for $41 at: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM5878976107P?blockNo=2&blockType=G2&prdNo=2&i_cntr=1332384326524
Test light at o'reillys is 10.99 http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/EQU1/3410.oap?ck=Search_test+light_-1_3074&keyword=test+light
Coil resistor wire is $20 at O'reillys http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Coil+Resistor/02773/C0334.oap?model=Mustang&vi=1132984&year=1973&make=Ford
whats a coil resistor?
I am having a friend going to get feeler guage and test light
i'm switching to Q&A format
Thank you so much for the information
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Alright, I purchased the feeler guage. Set the points correctly. I got the volt meter and test light. I put the cars ignition on but didnt turn the car on and while the distributor cap was off, I tested inside. I put it everywhere and it wasnt lighting up. The fusable Linkage was lighting up and everything by the alternator seemed fine. I also put the light tester on the coil, inside, on the (-) negative and (+) positive. Still no signs of life. The light did not turn on. Bad coil even though its new?
With the key on and the lights on the dash illuminated, you say there is no voltage at coil+? If so, you will need to check if there is voltage comming out to that wire on ignition switch. No voltage at coil + means your resistor wire is bad or ignition switch is bad. If you were getting voltage you would need to check further forward, but since you are not, the problem is before the coil.
Here is a wiring diagram:
All I wanted you to do was test coil+ with key on. If you have voltage there you can test coil negative while cranking but if you have no voltage at coil+ with key on, you have to find where the voltage is lost & found. I'll be on line about 11am tomorrow to help you some more if needed.
I'll be online off and on all day today. I believe your problem is the resistor wire comming from the ignition switch. That's what happened with my 64 1/2 mustang. You can verify the problem by running a wire direct from the battery positive to the coil+ and starting the car. You will have to disconnect the wire to turn the engine off. You cannot leave the wire connected for any given length of time as it will burn up your new points unless you use a ballast resistor between the connection.
I will try that right now. I will go run a wire. I realized that that I didnt have the ignition on when testing the light in Distr and Coil. They all show signs of life and the light turns on. I will go now and try the wire from + coil to + terminal on battery. If it works, I will be a happy man!! :)
Ok, let me know.
I am definitly getting power to coil and to points in the distributor. I think its how the points are set against the lobe. I am not smart enough on that topic to set the points correctly. Maybe you could help explain how to set the points and then I'll try that. Otherwise, its sparking when I have a screw driver down there with ignition on. (accident) so no doubt its getting power, not its just a matter of setting the points/lobes/rotor correctly. Thanks
Remove the cap & rotor with plug wires attached and hand crank engine or bump starter until the points open and set with rubbing block at highest point of distributor cam so points are open fully. If you haven't yet already done so, lubricate the distributor cam lobe with dist. cam lubricant. Slightly loosen hold down screw so you can move the points to the .016-.018 setting with feeler gauge. Make sure feeler gauges are squeaky clean with no oil residue on them. You may also want to use a piece of paper towel or sand paper to rub between points. Cleanliness is very important. After years of wear, not all dist cam lobes are equal due to lack of lubrication and this will affect your dwell. After setting gap, tighten hold down screw just enough where points no longer can be moved, (I am assuming you have already attached the wire to the end of the points comming from coil - to distributor) then replace rotor and cap and you're done. A quick check with a dwell meter connected to coil - should show 28-30 degrees dwell while cranking for best setting. Make sure your plug wires are installed in the correct firing order. If you get a dwell reading you will have spark at the plugs whether or not you have the correct firing order. If you don't get spark at the plugs at this point, you have a defective coil, coil wire, cap or rotor. After setting points you will have to set your timing since any point gap change will change your timing setting. You can actually test your coil output by having key on with points closed, coil wire disconnected from cap and held close to ground surface, open points with screwdriver and spark should jump.
The book calls for .017 gap for points but I set mine at .016 for more dwell. This increases saturation time for the magnetic field to build up before it collapses which results in a hotter spark. The gap is not as important as the actual dwell reading when finished. As long as your dwell is within specs, you are good to go. For specification references, see this link:
If you want the maximum performance out of your engine, set your timing at 10 degrees BTDC. From my experience, this is the maximum you can go without pinging.
Book point gap is .017-.021.
The most precise and easiest way to set your points would be to connect a dwell meter, red lead to coil - and black lead to battery ground. Loosen hold down screw and with key on, crank engine with remote starter while watching dwell reading and moving the points open or closed with screwdriver until obtaining the desired dwell, then locking it down. See: http://www.ehow.com/how_8383180_hook-up-tach-dwell-meter.html
Dwell is the most important and is what you are trying to accomplish by setting the point gap. More dwell means hotter spark but must be within specs. I have found that 30 degrees dwell is the best setting for any V8 engine with single points distributor.
Too confusing for me. I used the feeler guage to do it. .016th. It started right up... but I hear a rattleing noise and the car wont rev past 2.5k rpm. It just chuggs or jumps a little and feels like its about to turn off unless I let go of the gas pedal. Now if we can solve this, I will be very happy. Because this is what was happening before, then the car shut off and I was at where I am now. But for now, it turns on and runs but it wont drive. Wont go past 2-2.5k rpm.
Relist: Answer came too late.
Did you set your timing when you were done? Set your timing at 6 degrees BTDC. Set timing with vacuum hose to distributor disconnected & pluged Then adjust your carburetor. First make sure your choke is set at 1/16 opening when stone cold first starting up. Make sure choke is wide open when at operating temperature. Then adjust your idle mixture screws to highest & best rpm after warm up. It would be best to use a vacuum gauge connected to intake manifold vacuum and adjust mixture screws to highest & best vacuum, then set your idle, & recheck timing. Does your engine miss?ASEMaster35yrs40992.0622236921
Engine does not missfire. I start it, turns on strong (vibrates a little more than normal), engine oil is normal, transmission fluid level normal, power steering normal. All fluids normal but engine vibrates a little more vigrously. I sit at the wheel, give it a little gas while it is in park and bank. IT gets choppy and eventually just either dies off or I have to release the gas pedal and it goes back to a "normal" sounding idle thats a tad bit rough. When youre telling me to set my timing, where is that located? I might just youtube that and see exactly what needs to be done. You wording, which I am sure is correct, is a bit hard for me to read. It's just that I am not that great with cars but have a decent understanding for my mustang since I do all the work on it myself. Oh and my points are set exactly at .018 whilst using my feeler guage. New spark wires, firing order is correct and wires from coil are strong and have no flaws to them.
Loosen the distributor hold down bolt with 1/2' wrench and turn distributor clockwise to advance or counterclockwise to retard timing. You will need a timing light connected to the front passenger side spark plug wire which is number 1 in your firing order. Point the timing light to flash at the timing marks on front dampner at idle.ASEMaster35yrs40992.1264993056
Interesting ok. So I loosen the bolt that sits right in the middle when I take the cap off? Then I turn the actual Distributor with my hands counterclockwise how much and how far or how will I know when I've completed it? On a V8, which would be the first firing order spark plug? Isnt it top right a little?
First of all, you don't take the cap off. The bolt that you loosen is outside the distributor on the bottom where it is held down by a piece of steel with a hole in it that the bolt goes through. You can follow the #1 plug wire from the spark plug back to the cap if your using the position on the cap, but you can also connect between the end of the plug wire to # XXXXX spark plug.
This is your firing order.
By watching the mark on the dampner as you turn the distributor until you see the 6 degree XXXXX XXXXXne up to the pointer. Each line is 2 degrees so it should be on the third line before TDC.
You can see the bolt that holds the distributor in this photo.
Your distributor has a counterclockwise rotation so your firing order will start at #1 going counterclockwise. If you turn your distributor clockwise, your timing will advance. If you turn the distributor counterclockwise, it will retard the timing.
Here is a picture of a 1973 mustang 302 "F" engine where you can see the hold down bracket & bolt that holds distributor.
Do you know how to use a timing light? here is a picture.
you attach the red lead to battery positive and black lead to battery negative, then put the purple lead to surround the #1 spark plug wire where that black hole is then pull the trigger button on the timing light while pointing to the engine dampner timing marks. Turn distributor by hand until the pointer above dampner lines up with the third line mark before TDC and lock down distributor bolt.
You can get a timing light at any parts store but here is a link.
Are you still with me? Where did you hear the rattling noise? This could mean your timing is too far advanced if it happens when cold or it could mean you have a problem with your EGR valve if it's only when hot. You need to check your timing to be sure.