Chrysler Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi Im David. what unit are you even talking about??????
oh ok. ill opt out and let you continue with him.
Hello and welcome to JustAnswer!
If the control head is inoperative it's either due to a loss of power or ground or an internal failure. The first step in diagnosing the problem is to use an incandescent test light to test the power and ground feds at the control head while it is not working.
With the key on can you check for power on the gray/pink and red/orange wires, and for ground on the black/orange?
Not a problem. Three out of my family of four are sick also. Let me know what you find whenever you're able to.
Do you have an incandescent test light or a headlamp bulb and some jumper wires? Everything there looks good but it would be best to load test the powers and grounds to see if they'll light a bulb brightly.
You'd perform the same power and ground checks as before but use an incandescent bulb to ensure that it will light as brightly as if connected directly to the battery. This will ensure the circuit can flow enough current to support a load.
You only want to check the circuits I mention because applying power or ground to some circuits could cause damage.
If the power and ground feeds I described are present and the control head is electrically dead then it is bad. The power feeds are the gray/pin and red/orange, the ground is the black/orange.
That has LED's in it and wouldn't tell you anything more than the voltmeter did, an incandescent test light or actual bulb is what we wanted to use.
If the gray/pink wire in pin 5 is grounded then fuse 45 is blown and there is either a short to ground in the integrated power module or in the wire between there and the control head.
If the gray/pink has no power the control head can't operate. If it is shorted to ground then there is either a short to ground in the harness or the IPM.
You can't jump power to the wire if it's shorted to ground.
Yes, the radio receives power from the same circuit.
You can cut the wire at the control head and then supply power from another fused ignition switched circuit if you don't want to locate and repair the actual failure.
You'd need to isolate the area with the short and then either hardwire it and cut the existing wire at each end or locate and repair the actual problem. You can hard wire it from the IPM to the radio and control head and cut the existing wire at each end as long as the problem isn't internal in the IPM.
If both power feeds and ground are present but the control head does not power up then it has failed.
You can come back and reply here at any time and rating my performance doesn't prevent communication.
You can disconnect the battery but other than that there isn't anything to worry about. Honestly most wouldn't even disconnect the battery but it would be the correct thing to do.
Do you mean the only thing that works is the illumination when the park lamps are on?
You've now ran a new keyed power feed to the control head? Can you use an incandescent test light to test the power and ground feeds?
The power feeds are the gray/pink and red/orange wires, black/orange is ground.
That's great, I'm glad to hear you got it fixed!
Is it starting and dying with the S***** *****ght flashing?
If there was a SKIM problem it would run for two seconds and die.
The light isn't flashing when trying to start it? If it's only flashing when the alarm is set that's normal operation.
Is this an aftermarket alarm?
The alarm light should flash when the alarm is set.
CAn you upload a recording showing what you're seeing?
Neither of those things would accomplish anything on a Chrysler product, if the engine starts then the key is programmed, and once programmed keys don't lose programming unless erased with a scan tool.
That's likely to be a body controller issue or a poor power or ground feed to it.