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sprinkles08
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Chrysler
Satisfied Customers: 21947
Experience:  ASE Master & Advanced level certified, Chrysler Master Certified, Trans and Hybrid Specialist
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Chrysler

I have a similar issue on an 04 pacifica. Was told by a

chrysler mechanic just weeks ago... Show More
chrysler mechanic just weeks ago that power to the unit is fine, so the unit needs replacing. None in Canada so got one from ebay form AK autoparts. Just received it, plugged it in and nothing. Checked the plug as per your image and there is 13+v going to the unit with car running. After fiddling a bit with the plug and tapping the unit gently the button display lights are comming on but still no actual power to the controls nor does the display light up. Did I get another dud or is there more issues with wiring in the harness plugs etc. Thanks.
Submitted: 3 months ago.
Category: Chrysler
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Customer reply replied 3 months ago.
Ive tried pushing all the wires as far as possible into thr plugs. Wire brushed off the 3 ground connections on the driver side of the engine compartment below the fuse box. Tested all fuses which are OK. Tried compressing the plug connectirs slightly with a pic to see if it was a loose connector on one of the pins. Im at a loss...
Customer reply replied 3 months ago.
I guesss I should mention that the old unit worked sporadically until it also lit up buttons but then did not power on eventually. Ive had that apart and cleaned the boards and wire harness clips of dust and whaterer and cleaned the metal connections off. Ive tried to power it with a battery charger to pins 4+ and 11g but nothing.
david craig, Auto Mechanic
Satisfied Customers: 1464
Experience: owner/mechanic at 3D Automotive
replied 3 months ago.

Hi Im David. what unit are you even talking about??????

Customer reply replied 3 months ago.
Sorry David. I was responding to another question from another individual. I guess the thread had no connection to mine. My issu is with the climate control unit of a 2004 pacifica.
david craig, Auto Mechanic replied 3 months ago.

oh ok. ill opt out and let you continue with him.

Customer reply replied 3 months ago.
David. Ive nobody helping me yet. I was saying that I was reding an earlier responce from another mech and thought the thread was somehow parr of my question. Please advise if you have answers. Thanks ,Andy
Customer reply replied 3 months ago.
This is a link to what I thought would carry thru. Sorry about that. Cold and tired. Im in Calgary Alberta. Snow outside... http://my.justanswer.com/question/guest/31a0870c37154a888619addbdda25ff8
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician
Satisfied Customers: 21947
Experience: ASE Master & Advanced level certified, Chrysler Master Certified, Trans and Hybrid Specialist
replied 3 months ago.

Hello and welcome to JustAnswer!

If the control head is inoperative it's either due to a loss of power or ground or an internal failure. The first step in diagnosing the problem is to use an incandescent test light to test the power and ground feds at the control head while it is not working.

With the key on can you check for power on the gray/pink and red/orange wires, and for ground on the black/orange?

Customer reply replied 3 months ago.
Appreciate your reply. I am unable to attempt testing until later in the week due to other commitments. It is quite cool now here in calgary and I am unable to use the car for to and from work as I cant drive with the windows down to stop windsheild fogging. Luckily I have a mostly operational 27yr old F250 to get on with life. Bought a test light last night so hopefully able to diagnose with your advise soon, Springkles... Thanks
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 3 months ago.
Let me know how it goes!
Customer reply replied 3 months ago.
Hey Sprinkles,
Bin tough going of late. To much work, whole house of 4 sick, including hours in emergency, so not much luck on the fixing front. Luckily the weather has been warmer than expected so I've some extra time. Not much' but some. I'm home in bed today but did manage to get some voltage readings from the power wires via the plug last week. I'll try to report them to you later tonight. I have to compile them from pictures. This.is all in an effort to prove either there is something wrong with the car wiring or the replacement part I recieved via ebay. Sorry for the delay but ive been in bed with the flu since Friday. - Andy
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 3 months ago.

Not a problem. Three out of my family of four are sick also. Let me know what you find whenever you're able to.

Customer reply replied 3 months ago.
Hi Sprinkles, I final had a chance to get my testing results to you. Does any of this look suspicious?I hope I have the correct wire colors, if not I,ve used the pins to. I'm very much starting to think I have a severe grounding issue.WIRE COLOR ------------------------VOLTAGE-----------------------------
PIN POWER ON CAR RUNNING POWER OFF
GreenBlue 1 0.00 ? 0.00
BlueYellow 2 0.00 ? 0.00
OrangGrey 3 12.68 ? 0.00
RedOrange 4 12.72 ? 5.80
PinkGrey 5 13.49 13.70 0.00
WhitePurple 6 0.98 - 1.16 - 1.43 ? 0.37
Varies with key off
LtBlueDkBlue7 11.82 ? 0.00
BlueDkBlue 8 13.45 ? 0.00
YellowBlue 9 0.00 ? 0.00
OrangeBlue 10 0.00 ? 0.00
OrangeBlack 11 GND GND GND
12 NULL NULL NULL
13 NULL NULL NULLThank again,
Andy
Customer reply replied 3 months ago.
Well that didn't work so well, so I've attached and image of the spreadsheet I had made. Thanks.
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 3 months ago.

Do you have an incandescent test light or a headlamp bulb and some jumper wires? Everything there looks good but it would be best to load test the powers and grounds to see if they'll light a bulb brightly.

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
Hey sprinkles, the fun keeps coming...Yesterday I took the truck to the shop to get a terroble vibration fixed and more importantly to get an exhaust leak corrected that was bringing exhaust into the cab, and when driving it home I pulled over to get something and shut the truck off, got back in and the key wouldn't work. I managed to get the truck running by jumping the starter at the solenoid, but I could not get the truck to go into gear. The tumblers inside the ignition completely collapsed, had to get AMA to come tow me home. The truck is all I have at the moment so I have to fix that first as we are currently stranded. It's -12 Celsius out there today, and I've got to get out there and figure out if it's just the ignition cylinder tumblers, for which I have a replacement ignition switch, or the starter actuator rod broken in this 27yr old truck. I have to get that mobile as it is also filled with a bunch of junk for a dump run. So... Once I get that problem resolved, I will hopefully be able to turn focus onto the car and perform the load testing you suggest. One thing that would help is if you could send me some links or information on how to perform the load testing and what to be looking for. That would be most appreciated. If I cant get my truck fixed by EOD today I will have to drive my wife to a specialist appointment tomorrow in the car with the windows open in -XX degrees tomorrow.Thanks again for your help. I'm hopeful that tomorrow is the day I get to look at the car, but it depends on the truck success.Thanks
Andy
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

You'd perform the same power and ground checks as before but use an incandescent bulb to ensure that it will light as brightly as if connected directly to the battery. This will ensure the circuit can flow enough current to support a load.

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
Hey Sprinkles,
Hope things are good for you.So I finally got to use fy fancy new smart test light. i plugged it into the power socket and it lit up the white light ice and bright. Tested each of the harness recievers as follows:car ignition at off.
1 = null
2 = null
3 = grd
4=pwr
5=grd
6=grd
7=very faint grd
8=very faint grd
9=null
10=null
11= grd
With the two faint grounds does that set the possibility of short somewhere or are those the trickle feeds?Hope that info sparks an idea for you.Thanks AndySo I
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

You only want to check the circuits I mention because applying power or ground to some circuits could cause damage.

If the power and ground feeds I described are present and the control head is electrically dead then it is bad. The power feeds are the gray/pin and red/orange, the ground is the black/orange.

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
the video on the web showed that this light works in detecting both ground and power by the smart sensors ensuring no inapproprate power could be passed. At least thats what the video showed. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gzUiDNVqnvAGray/pink Pin 5 = grd
red/Orange Pin 4= Pwr
black/orang Pin 11=grdSo either we have a serious issue with the wiring or I am not seeing the same colours. Ill upload a pic....
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

That has LED's in it and wouldn't tell you anything more than the voltmeter did, an incandescent test light or actual bulb is what we wanted to use.

If the gray/pink wire in pin 5 is grounded then fuse 45 is blown and there is either a short to ground in the integrated power module or in the wire between there and the control head.

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
Sorry, must be overtired working on 21 vehicles at same time. With the gray pink having no power then that is the problem right? That means no power to the main. Its grounded out somewhere. Shorted. So if I were to jump 5 It would be juced up properly. But that means I have a power drain as well, no?
Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
2 vehicles....
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

If the gray/pink has no power the control head can't operate. If it is shorted to ground then there is either a short to ground in the harness or the IPM.

You can't jump power to the wire if it's shorted to ground.

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
If splicing to harness to jump does that not remove the curcuit ground frome source. Then splice into the battery power lower down in the dash. Should fuse it maybe bit probably already is but for different value maybe. To cjase the ground down, a must do I could find it later? Just need heat to get car to work an back for a bit. You think that would work? I've done that with the radio. They probably share the same power wire somewhere.
Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
Also, is it possible to test the head units I have with a battery charger? To see if they power on?
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

Yes, the radio receives power from the same circuit.

You can cut the wire at the control head and then supply power from another fused ignition switched circuit if you don't want to locate and repair the actual failure.

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
I do want to repair the failure, but to check the fuse to unit wire from the power control unit you have to pull it out. I tried that to no avail. Thought I was gong to break it. Or am I not in the ballpark yet?
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

You'd need to isolate the area with the short and then either hardwire it and cut the existing wire at each end or locate and repair the actual problem. You can hard wire it from the IPM to the radio and control head and cut the existing wire at each end as long as the problem isn't internal in the IPM.

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
Ok. Will dig in tomorrow. Have to pick up wife from volunteering. Tomorrows another day to play. Thanks. I'll let you know how things go.
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

Great!

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
Hi Sprinkles,I tried my idea of bypassing the grey-pink power wire and providing a power source from the un-switched, fused, power supply from the power plug in the dash. I spliced into the said power source using a fused connector. Using the test light I proved that the Pin 4 (Red/Orange) & 5 (Grey-Pink) had power and pin 11 (Orange/Black) had ground. Disconnected the battery, connected the control and re-connected the battery. The replacement Heater control did not power up, leaving me to believe it is a dead unit. Would you agree, or would you recommend an alternate test? I now have to go and work on the truck's ignition & stuck gear shift issue for a bit...Thanks
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

If both power feeds and ground are present but the control head does not power up then it has failed.

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
Well, it looks like I am on the hunt for another replacement control unit. I may have to go right to Chrysler - America and get a brand new unit. The Chrysler shop I called said they are approx $1000 cdn and there are none at any Canadian dealerships to be found. either that or reattempt acquiring another dud from eBay... . Am I OK to continue this question? As I now have to return this dud and locate another unit I can't say how long that might take. Can this question stay open until the replacement unit is installed and functioning?Thanks
Andy
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

You can come back and reply here at any time and rating my performance doesn't prevent communication.

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
Hey Sprinkles, Thanks for your much preciated ongoing help. I contacted my seller earlier about the defective unit and he has nt me another. The mail tracking says it arrived today so if that's true hopefully I can test it out either tonight or tomorrow. Do you have any cautions/advise on connecting it that would ensure I don't compromize it during installation. Other than disconnecting the battery as usual?
Thanks
Andy
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

You can disconnect the battery but other than that there isn't anything to worry about. Honestly most wouldn't even disconnect the battery but it would be the correct thing to do.

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
Hello again Sprinkles,
I spliced the control unit grey/pink into the switched power plug in the bottom of the console. It is getting 11.5 v with the ley on but not running. I had recieved another replacement unit from my ebay contact. Plugged that unit and still only get power to the button lights. A sad day. Starting wonder if there is some other power or ground not right in the wiring. Any ideas? We are ypacing the PCM for some power but not others. Some of those other wires do deliver some power with the let on. Could they be suspect?
Thanks.
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

Do you mean the only thing that works is the illumination when the park lamps are on?

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
that seems to be all that works on booth of the replacement units. My original used to do that but then eventually gave up doing that.
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

You've now ran a new keyed power feed to the control head? Can you use an incandescent test light to test the power and ground feeds?

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
I have to go and get an incandescent test light. The smart light I have have does appear to have intensity capabilities but as this has not provided the required info I will get one today. Is it possible for you to tell me which wire's go into which pins on the harness. Just be ensure the powered wires we are targeting are powering the correct pins on the unit. Thanks
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

The power feeds are the gray/pink and red/orange wires, black/orange is ground.

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
Hey Sprinkles. After using an incandescent test light it was determined that even after both the Smart test light and the multi-meter showed the orange/red to have power it apparently either did not, or did not have enough. After splicing both the pink/grey and orange/red into the switched power outlet in the dash the replacement unit now works. Thank you for your persistence in reiterating that and for listening to all my garbage divulged over the course of this discussion. It has been an unusually troublesome time for me and family. When springtime comes i will have to look deeper into the originating issue and determine the proper corrective actin for routing correct power sources for these feeds as the original feeds are obviously somehow compromised.Have a merry Christmas should you celebrate that, and a good new year.Thanks again, Andy
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

That's great, I'm glad to hear you got it fixed!

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
Hi Sprinkles, I was wondering if this question is considered closed? I have an issue NM ow directly related to the same circuit as the HVAC unit. I had the winter tires installed. They had issues with the TPMS sensors and discovered the car had split year provision and I had bought the wrong ones. But in attempting to reprogram the TPMS they somehow did something to the remote keyless entry, perhaps while attempting to connect to the OBD harness. But they did have to boost the car to get it going too & may have left the key in or on while connecting the charge, if that is possible to compromise it. Now the car security light flashes a code out. I'm worried that the car does not now recognize the key. We have not had remote entry working for some time prior, likely as this is all the same circuit. Is it safe to just pull the fuse until I have a chance in warmer months to diagnose and rewire all the feeds or will the car strand me or worse yet shut off unexpectedly while driving? I've tried various options f OK r getting the car to reprogram the keys but no luck. Should I get the keys reprogramed? Thanks for any information, very appreciated.
Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
I should add that the security system sets on/off with the buttons, and I f I remote start the car first the remaining OK the keys then work until the car r is turned off again. Thanks.
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

Is it starting and dying with the S***** *****ght flashing?

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
It stays running. Not sure how long for though.. not brave enough to drive around and risk stranding. I did make it home from the shop. I just took off the interior piece and wiggled the connecto to find that the key in ignition warning bell would go on and off sporadically with the door open. The REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY MODULE connector seems somewhat loose maybe.... Should I verify how long it runs for? I've read it might go for 2 mins then shut off, hense the immobiliser security features kick in.
Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
the light flashes a 15 single then 6 double flashes, but if I watch it long enough the pattern changes somewhat.
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

If there was a SKIM problem it would run for two seconds and die.

The light isn't flashing when trying to start it? If it's only flashing when the alarm is set that's normal operation.

sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

Is this an aftermarket alarm?

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
It's a factory alarm. If I pull the fuse the alarm indication is off. The light remains off. Does not flash with doors locked. Starts and runs with fuse 50 out.
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

The alarm light should flash when the alarm is set.

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
The light flashes the earlier stated pattern once I turn the key to run then continues even once started and running.
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

CAn you upload a recording showing what you're seeing?

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
one of the tips I tried to get the keys reprogramed was to turn the key on for an our and see if the key would be reprogramed by the car. No go. Tried with both keys. Also another was to press the keys on the phone in a particular order. Can't recall order. Do these tricks have merit?
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

Neither of those things would accomplish anything on a Chrysler product, if the engine starts then the key is programmed, and once programmed keys don't lose programming unless erased with a scan tool.

Customer reply replied 2 months ago.
Had issues getting video to acceptable size and format. Sorry for the delay. Hope this helps . Thanks.
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 months ago.

That's likely to be a body controller issue or a poor power or ground feed to it.