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david craig
david craig, Auto Mechanic
Category: Chrysler
Satisfied Customers: 924
Experience:  owner/mechanic at 3D Automotive
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Have sebring 2002 battery light is ON even after replacing

Customer Question

hi have sebring 2002 battery light is ON even after replacing with new battery
and alternator. Can any one help me out.
JA: Have you tested the battery? Have you tried testing the alternator?
Customer: yes both are good but light is on
JA: Are you hoping to fix this yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: replaced new battery and alternator
JA: OK. Got it. I'm sending you to a secure page on JustAnswer so you can place the $5 fully-refundable deposit now. While you're filling out that form, I'll tell the Chrysler Mechanic about your situation and then connect you two.
Submitted: 4 months ago.
Category: Chrysler
Customer: replied 4 months ago.
hi have sebring 2002 battery light is ON even after replacing with new battery
and alternator. Can any one help me out
Customer: replied 4 months ago.
thing what i can is have done but no use really frustrated with chrysler sebring 2002
Expert:  david craig replied 4 months ago.

Hi Im Dave. Have you taken a voltage reading at the battery with the engine running?

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
ya battery and voltage reading are good but battery light is been on. when battery light is on battery is killed. i have tested individual both are good
Expert:  david craig replied 4 months ago.

what was the voltage reading at the battery while the engine was running?

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
12.45 while engine is running
Expert:  david craig replied 4 months ago.

your alternator is not putting out the correct voltage or the wires from the alternator are loose, corroded or open. the voltage should be no less than 14.4 while the vehicle is running

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
wires are not loose checked for more than 5 times
Customer: replied 4 months ago.
but some were there is a wire problem that couldnt find out
Expert:  david craig replied 4 months ago.

Check voltage at the alternator terminal

Expert:  david craig replied 4 months ago.

please leave a rating

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
my check engine light is blinking 5 time may I know whats the problem
Expert:  david craig replied 4 months ago.

did you check voltage at the alternators terminal?

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
ya its shows like 13.87
Expert:  david craig replied 4 months ago.

then its not putting out the correct voltage. it should be at least 14.4, as far as the cel blinking 5 times, thats normal when the battery and or alternator has been disconnected. it just tells you the emission monitors are not ready

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
for blinking light what can I do for that to solve
Expert:  david craig replied 4 months ago.

it only blinks 5 times on start up correct?

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
before it starts
Customer: replied 4 months ago.
ya your right
Expert:  david craig replied 4 months ago.

once a drive cycle is complete (15-25 miles, the monitors will go into readiness mode and the light wont blink anymore

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
I have driven like 40 miles but it coundnt happen
Customer: replied 4 months ago.
even checked engine oil gauges also
Expert:  david craig replied 4 months ago.

do you still have the battery light on?

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
I am its fine with battery light but now its check light is blinking I don't know whats the problem?
Expert:  david craig replied 4 months ago.

i dont understand that answer.... the battery light is on or not?

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
battery light is off
but check light is blinking
Expert:  david craig replied 4 months ago.

the check engine light is blinking then goes off when the vehicle is running, correct?

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
ya when vechicle is running light goes off
Expert:  david craig replied 4 months ago.

ok. drive it for a bit longer. different speeds, on the highway to get it to go into readiness status

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
long like how many miles, different speeds like 50mph, 70mph, 80mph?
Expert:  david craig replied 4 months ago.
  • Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
  • The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
  • The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
  • The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.
  • Step Two: The Cold Start

  • Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed.
  • Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion—not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either.
  • After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip.
  • Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed.
  • When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed.
  • Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase.

Step Four: More City Driving

  • After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two.
  • Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally.
  • Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off.

Step Five: Have your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified

  • Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
  • If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.