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brownjeff, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Chrysler
Satisfied Customers: 13886
Experience:  17 years experience, ASE certified, dealership certified, Service Manager for 15 years,
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Chrysler New Yorker (fifth ave) i have a 1992 chrysler new

Resolved Question:

i have a 1992 chrysler new yorker fifth ave, with the 3.3L V6, it ran fine for almost 2 years, then all the sudden, it wont start... i checked for fuel pressure (at the fuel rail) and it does have fuel, i checked for spark *(using a timing light)* and no spark... i replaced the DIC (the big box where the sparkplug wires plug in) and still no dice... i've checked all the fuses and they are all good, i am now at a loss and not sure what else to check, or how to check if the DIC is even getting voltage, any suggestions would be wonderful!

- NEW Battery
- Fuel Pump IS working
- New Auto-Shutoff Relay
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Chrysler
Expert:  brownjeff replied 5 years ago.
Hello and Welcome to JustAnswer,

My name is XXXXX XXXXX I am here to try and assist your with your question. You most likely have a bad cam sensor or crank sensor. First make sure getting voltage to the sensors when the key is on. Then when cranking the engine you need to get voltage out of the sensors and the voltage needs to change. If no voltage out or it doesn't change the sensor will need replaced.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I had not considered those sensors being bad, can you explain (in detail) how i would go about checking these sensors, and also thier location on the engine, and what voltages i "should" be getting, assuming the sensors are working correctly.

also, what other problems would these sensors cause?
Expert:  brownjeff replied 5 years ago.
These sensors control the timing and can cause misfires, stalling, and starting problems.

The Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS) is located on the timing gear cover.

The Crankshaft Position Sensor is located on the transmission bellhousing.

You will get 8 volts to the sensor with the key on and the voltage will change when coming out and as long as voltage coming out and changing the sensor is working. When checking the voltage out take a paper clip and put in the back of the connector to touch the wire inside to get a reading as the connector must be connected to test the voltage coming out. On the crank sensor put the paper clip in the Gray wire with a black stripe and on the cam sensor put it in the tan wire with a yellow stripe
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Ok, let me go check the sensors, if that turns out to be the issue i will accept and tip extra!

Thank you.
Expert:  brownjeff replied 5 years ago.
Sounds good.......
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
ok, i was able to check the camshaft position sensor, and here's what i found...

there are 3 wires (unable to tell which color due to car age) , i unplugged the sensor, and tested all 3 wires... these are the voltages i found

wire 1 = 0.33v
wire 2 = 0.11v
wire 3 = 0v

i then plugged the sensor back in, and reperformed the test as you suggested and found the same voltages...

as of yet, i have no located the crank position sensor, but i think the issue is with some other part of wiring... is that what this test is telling us?
Expert:  brownjeff replied 5 years ago.
Yes you should be getting 8 volts to the sensor and you are not so you either have a problem with the wire or the engine controller. You need to see if getting 8 volts out of the engine controller with the key on. Use the paper clip again and put it into pin# XXXXX of the engine controller and tell me what the voltage reading is with the key on. The connector should have numbers on it so you will know which one is number 7. If getting 8 volts out the wire is the problem if not getting 8 volts out the engine controller is the problem
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
the engine control is mounted on the drivers side fender well, next to the battery correct?

the major issue here is, the person that installed the ecu over tightened the bolt that holds the connector on, and now, trying to loosen the bolt, it just turns and turns and turns and never actually comes out, so getting the connector off is not possable, i beleve i can check this without removing the connector i just need to find the right wire.
Expert:  brownjeff replied 5 years ago.
Yes that is it.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
is the the orange wire, 7 wires from the left, on the upper part of the harness connector when standing on the drivers side fender, looking down at the ecu?

i am trying to locate my pin out diagram of the connector.
Expert:  brownjeff replied 5 years ago.
It should be from the left side of the connector on the top row when looking at the back of the connector
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
ok, i beleve i tested the correct wire, it was Yellow with a white stripe, i got 0v out of it, just for kicks i also test the Orange wire that i mentioned eairler and got 0.11v out of it, this was with the key on in both tests, so i'm guessing that means the ECU is bad...

the only problem i have with that, is this ECU is less then 6 months old and should not be bad already, so something else is causing these things to burn out (this is the 3rd one in 2 years)
Expert:  brownjeff replied 5 years ago.
Yes this test is indicating the ECU needs replaced. Just make sure the connector is tight and none of the wires are damaged. Also put dielectric grease in the plug when putting it back together to keep moisture out and make sure the ground is clean and tight other than that nothing you can do.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
ok, i will replace the ecu, do you have any suggestions on how i can get the bolt out of the ecu since it's stripped and just turns? i am pretty sure that the nut inside the ecu is turning with the bolt..

thank you for all of your help and assistance.
Expert:  brownjeff replied 5 years ago.
You will need to pull on the connector when turning the bolt or pry on it to put tension on the nut to try and stop it from turning.
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