Chrysler Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hello and welcome to JustAnswer!
Is the car in a non-running state now? Or does it run now but the code reader/scan tool won't communicate?
Do you have a voltmeter to do some electrical testing?
It runs good but the reader/scan tool does not communicate. saying operator error- is the ignition switch on. The check engine light comes on but goes out . Sometomes the the will cut off going down the road and some days it won't.
yes we do have a voltmeter
will start back on the car at 8:00 a.m.
Yes I'm gonna accept this answer but I will need to talk back with you tomorrow sometime after 10.00 a.m.
What is your work time online
Reply back whenever you can and I'll get back to you as quickly as possible. I'm a full time tech and I work during the day, so there will be periods when I can't reply to you immediately. I get home from work about 6 Eastern, but I do get to check in here periodically throughout the day whenever I can.
Yes I'm back
I did the ingition switch on and off three times started the light flashing. The codes was 12 and 25. I don't think either one of these codes would shut down the engine, don't know
I need to know how to check the voltage at the data link connector
It was probably 12 and 55. 12 means the battery has been disconnected and 55 means end of test.
At the data link connector you should have constant power on the pink wire in pin 16. The black wire in pin 4 should have ground.
The bus communication wires are the violet/gray in pin 3 and the white/dark green in pin 11. With the key on each of these should average about 2.5v.
I will accept your answer and check the connector tomorrow and will get back with you
The bus communication wires pin 3 and 11 have a voltage of 2.49 and 2.48 at data link.
pin 16 is hot , pin 4 has a ground. My question is should pin 5 also have a ground
Yes. Pin 4 is a solid black wire and should be grounded.
Sorry, yes. Pin 4 and 5 should both be grounded.
So, why is no communication at data link. ( operator error, was key on)
If it won't communicate, and at the same time these things at the data link connector all check out, and the car is able to start and run, then there is a problem with your scan tool or code reader. It's either a cable problem or internal in the tool.
Then something isn't right. If you have correct bus voltages, power and ground at the data link connector then the car will communicate. Make sure none of the terminals in the DLC are pushed out or spread. Other than that, at the time it won't communicate is when you need to test at the DLC and see what is missing. If it won't communicate then the bus has to be down or you are missing power or ground.
Are you only trying to use the code reader/scan tool on it when the engine isn't able to start? If that's the only time you tried it then the communication problem is going to be related to the engine not running.
What model of scan tool are you using?
The car starts , run fine but .sometimes going down the road it will cut off. Sometimes it crank , sometime it take several tries . Once started it is able drive again until it happen again. The check engine light comes on and go back out
I am using a Actron autoscanner Plus
It looks like the problem is with the code reader and not the car. The Actron Autoscanner Plus is for OBDII compliant vehicles, 1996 and later. Your car being a 1995 was OBDI, so that particular Actron won't work for you.
You checked for codes using the flash method and found the 12 and 55, which means no codes are stored. Has the check engine light been on (while the engine was running) since the last time the battery was disconnected?
How often does it die?
What happens when it dies? Does it start right back up or does it take a cool down period?
How does it feel when it dies? Does it die abruptly or does it hesitate and lose power as it dies?
When it dies it start right up. Sometimes it will take 2 times cranking to stay running, but most times 1.
Sometime it will die 2 or 3 times in 5 miles and sometime you can drive 30 miles with no problem
When it dies it does it abruptly
Does it only die when you are off the throttle and coming to a stop, or can it die any time?
Does the engine light stay on after it dies?
I'll be offline for about an hour following this post, if you reply back while I'm offline I'll get back to you as quick as I can!
It can die even 70 mph on the the by-pass
Sometimes the check egine light don't come at all when it dies
It dies and you look down an all of the dash light is on
It start right back up
You've got a few possibilities for your problem, and it would be beneficial to know what codes are setting when the engine light comes on. There may be some very helpful information there.
There are three main possible causes. First would be the crankshaft position sensor. This goes down into the bellhousing at about the 2:00 position as viewed from the left fender, and reads off a tone wheel on the flexplate. It's job is to tell the engine controller exactly where there crank is in it's rotation and is the main input needed for spark.
Second down the list would be the distributor. The distributor on the 2.5 houses both the ignition coil and the camshaft position sensor. A problem with either of these will also cause a loss of spark.
The last most likely cause would be the powertrain control module (PCM) going down. This is the module that controls all engine functions. If it goes down because of an internal or external problem it will cause the engine to die. An internal PCM problem could be the issue, or external things like loss of power or ground, a short to voltage on the sensor ground circuit or short to ground on a 5v or 8v reference circuit. These things are less likely than the first two I mentioned. If you wanted to try something without diagnosing the problem with a scan tool when it dies then I would start by replacing the crank sensor.