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sprinkles08
sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Chrysler
Satisfied Customers: 16874
Experience:  ASE Master & Advanced level certified, Chrysler Master Certified, Trans and Hybrid Specialist
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2004 Chrysler Town and Country Van. Front blower wont come

Resolved Question:

2004 Chrysler Town and Country Van. Front blower won't come on when at temperature. Rear blower works. Checked relay and fuse and they are fine.
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: Chrysler
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

Hello and welcome to JustAnswer!

 

Do you have automatic temperature control or is it a manual system with a four position blower motor speed knob?

 

Do you have a voltmeter to do some testing?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

We have individual temp controls for the driver and passenger and and a control to send the rear air to the rear controls.

 

Yes, I have a voltmeter.

Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

Do you have automatic climate control? (In the front do you have a knob with four blower motor positions, or is it a variable speed blower motor control knob?)

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
I would say it's variable speed in that we have more than four settings.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

Ok great. Start by dropping the glovebox door down to expose the blower motor power module, which is mounted to the heater box directly behind the glovebox.

 

Disconnect the three way electrical connector. Connect the black lead of your voltmeter to a good ground, set it to 20v DC. Turn the key on and probe the dark blue wire and you should see battery voltage.

 

Then set the meter to 200 ohms and probe the black/orange wire and read the resistance to ground shown on the meter.

 

Let me know what you see for both of these and we'll go to the next step.

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
I read 13 volts. I don't have a 200 ohm scale but it looks like about 50 ohms.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.
50 ohms isn't great but should support blower motor operation.

Plug the 3 way connector back in and unplug the two wire connector that goes to the blower motor. Set the meter back to 20v DC, turn the key on and turn the blower motor on all the way to high. In the power module where the connector plugged in you will see the two terminals that engaged it. Touch one voltmeter lead to each of these terminals and read the voltage on your meter.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
I get 8 volts
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

This is with the blower motor on high, right? You should have had full battery voltage there with the motor on high.

 

Do you have a jumper wire? That 50 ohms bothers me a little, especially with the low voltage from the power module. If you have a jumper wire, take a straightened paperclip and insert it on the back of the connector on the black/orange wire and push it in until it contacts the terminal. Plug the blower motor connector back in and turn the motor on. Take a jumper wire between your paperclip and a good ground and see if the blower motor runs.

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Sorry. Did't have motor on high. 13 volts on high. Still want

the other test?

Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.
No, we won't need to do anything else then. You've got power and ground coming out of the power module but the blower motor isn't running, so that means the motor itself is bad. The blower motor will need to be replaced.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
hOW DOES THE MOTOR COME OUT?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

You have to remove the recirculation housing from the bottom of the heater box. If you look at the bottom of the box you will see an electric actuator. Remove this, and then push up the circular drive piece that engaged it.

 

Then look around the lower recirculation housing and you will see the 8mm screws that hold it to the bottom of the heater box. Remove these screws. There will be one directly in the front buried close to the floor pan. This one is easiest removed with a swivel socket and long extension.

 

When you get all these screws out you can drop the lower housing out. Remove the three 8mm screws that hold the blower motor to the heater box, and while holding the recirculation door out of it's way, lower the motor down out of the heater box.

sprinkles08, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Chrysler
Satisfied Customers: 16874
Experience: ASE Master & Advanced level certified, Chrysler Master Certified, Trans and Hybrid Specialist
sprinkles08 and 9 other Chrysler Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I pulled the blower motor and tested it on the bench and it works.

 

Any other ideas? Could it be the temperature sensor in the airbox? Can it be tested?

 

Are you still on line?

Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.
If you tested everything as I explained and you had the results that you gave me, then the blower motor had to be bad. You had 13v across the output terminals on the power module going to the motor, right?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

 

Sorry for the delay. Forced to go out. Married. I have 12 volts across the two terminals that feed the blower motor. When I short out the motor across the Orange/black terminal and the dark blue wire, the motor runs. When I plug it in, it doesn't. How can this be?

Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

If you jump it to the dark blue and black/orange wires coming into the power module and it runs, but not if it's plugged into the power module then the power module isn't powering the blower motor.

 

Plug everything back in normally and turn the key on. Take a straightened paperclip and backprobe into the light blue/dark blue wire and jump it to ground. This shoudl make the blower motor run at full speed. If not, replace the power module.

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
I do have 12 volts coming our of the two terminal plug on the airbox that goes right to the motor. Wierd. I don't know what you mean by backprobe. Dark blue to ground would seem to me to be a dead short.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

You aren't backprobing the dark blue wire. You are backprobing the light blue/dark blue wire, the third wire in the three wire connector. Take this to ground and the blower motor should run at full speed. If not, the power module is bad.

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
I'll give it a try.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

Ok.

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
What is puzziling me is that I am geting 12 volts across the two terminals going to themotor, but when I plug it in, the motor doesn't run. if i short it out fromthe same two wires, the orange/black and the dark blur, it runs. Am i missing something real stupid?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

I'm not sure how you are seeing 12v there either but the motor won't run. That's why we condemned the motor. Possibly there is 12v there that can be seen on a meter but isn't enough to support a load - it probably wouldn't light a light bulb either.

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
I have a good strong 12 volt reading on the meter. Is there not enough amperage there for the motor? Can i test that?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

Yes, with a load device - a headlamp or fog lamp bulb. But, since you know the blower motor works and you have power and ground to the module, all you need to do is ground that control wire. If the motor doesn't run then replace the power module.

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Does backprobe mean with the paperclip? Lots of Scotch tonight so this may have to wait until morning, but the answers will make sense then.

Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

Yes, take a straightened paperclip and insert it into the back of the connector on the light blue/dark blue wire and then ground it.

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Got it. I willl give it a try. I went from the back of the three wire plug on the lght/drk blue wire to ground and no motor. I think the Scotch helped.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

It does sound like you need a power module then. We know the motor does work, the power module has power and ground, so grounding this wire should have made it run at full speed.

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Is the power module the thing i have been plugging the wires into?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

Yes, the power module is where we have been doing all of this testing. It's held into the heater box with the two screws, and has the two electrical connectors.

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

 

that is an easy one to get out..

thanks for warning me about that back screw on the housing. After two hours and using every tool I own, i finally broke the bracket and ripped it out. Went back in fine.

Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

The older vans were even worse. The early vans of this body style had that screw coming in from the top where it's not possible to get on it with a socket unless remove the dash and heater box from the van. Needless to say there are alot of those heater boxes out there with this screw area ripped out of the lower half of the housing.

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
I didn't think I would be the first. You have been a very big help. Who can I tell?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.
Tell everyone you know!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Allready told the whole family but will keep at it. It is wonderful service. I am in the RV business and I think we could help people with the same type of information.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

There is actually an RV section here on JustAnswer, you yourself could become an expert and answer questions too!

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
My question now is if i can get up tomorrow morning. Bedtime here in Chicago. Thanks for everything. Good-Night.
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 4 years ago.

Have a great night!

 

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