2001 Sebring LX convertible 2.7 liter V6, 62K miles. Air conditioner will start and cool for maybe five minutes then quit and blow warm. Starts and stays running in defrost position.I've read this same gripe from other owners on Sebring blogs. Had Goodyear mechs check it with gauges and they showed very high pressure on the low side. Pressure on high side 125 to 130 psi. Pressure on low side 120 to 400 psi. Spiked their guage when shut off. They said it could be that the system is overfilled or there could be an obstruction somewhere in the system. They wanted a lot of money to evacauated and refill the system with no guantee that it would solve the problem What do you suggest?
Model: Sebring LX convertible
Engine: 2.7 V6
Had Goodyear do a pressure check.
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Yes very commonly this is an obstructed expansion valve , evacuating and recharging it is the next step if that does not work then the valve will need to be replaced .
Before you go spending money go with the air conditioning on make sure the lecture cooling fans are running properly , and also take a garden hose and clean out the air conditioning condenser that's the part in front of the radiator because many times a dirty condenser or the cooling fan that is not working will cause high pressure
Why would you reckon it's working on defrost? Does that make a stronger or leaker case for an obstructed expansion valve?
That is kinda strange the pressures should be too high even on defrost. So you're saying if you leave it on defroster that you continue to get cold air?
See that leads me to believe that it's not a blockage,Turn on the air conditioning and observe the cooling fans make sure they're both running while the ac Is on because if you do not have enough airflow over the condenser the pressures will also rise . Possibly there's an electrical problem and the fans are staying on properly when it's on defrost but not on air conditioning . Let me know what you find
Good morning Sean,
OK, new senerio. Both fans run when the system is cooling. But get this, I took it over to a friend who is a Chrysler mechanic. He put his test gauges on and told me I was LOW on freon. He added a full can and thre the pressures went where they're suppose to and the the system blows cold in the max position. On the way home, after the cabin had cooled, I switched to the regular run positions and the system quit blowing cold. I switched to defrost and it started again. Once it started I switched quickly switched back to max and it stayed cold. But if I switch to regular, which stops the system, then switch back to max, it doesn't start again. I have to restart it on defrost. If I start the car in the max position it comes on and blows cold. I have no idea what went on at Goodyear but I'm totally confused. I'm leaning toward a flacky control head. Is there electronics in the control head that can fail?
That's exactly what you have is a defective controller
I don't have ATC. Do still think it's the controller?
Yes even with Manual, with a combination of problems are having in the fact that the system does work and settings the trouble is most likely in the control. We can do some further testing if you'd like but it will get very involved. Just let me know what you want to do and I'm here to help you thank you
Sure. I'd like to do whatever testing I can to narrow it down before buying a new control head. Let me know what I should check.
At pin five which is eight dark blue wire with an orange tracer the back of the air conditioning control. Monitor the voltage on that wire while the aC is working properly and when the AC fails to work let me know if the voltage is any different
10.5 volts in all positions including heater and defrost
When the AC quits do you still have 10.5 volts ?
This is commonly this back to the body control module, using a scan tool see if you have a steady a/ C request at the body control module even when the air conditioning stops working
I don't have a scan tool. I have a digital Volt/Ohm meter. Is there a voltage I can measure to to monitor the a/c request?
No unfortunately you'll need a scan to to go further. Usually you can rent one from say in auto zone parts store
I do have an OBD-II scan tool.
Is that what I need?
Does your scan tool read data or just simply a code reader?
It does read data but it's pretty simplistic, ie ac refrig. monitoring is not supported.
If I go to Auto Zone and borrow/rent a scan tool what am I looking for?
And you need to rent one that is capable of reading the data from the body control module .
So the ac/heater control head interfaces to the body control module? If there is a problem can the firmware in the body control module be reflashed or does it have to be replaced? What data parameters do I need to look at with the scan tool?
Does running the ac in the max position all the time cause a problem, i.e. will it freeze up or damage anything.
There are RE flash is available, this may solve your problem but most commonly the module has to be replaced. Running the air conditioning Max position will be finding will cause no problem at all. And if he gets too cold in the car just adjust the temperature setting
30 yrs experience, ase certified, shop owner