Chrysler Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
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Since this happened right after filling with fuel it's very possibly a fuel related issue. The first thing I would do is check fuel pressure and take a sample to see what is in the tank.
Closely look at the fuel. Make sure it isn't cloudy, that would indicate water. Make sure it will evaporate fully in about a minute or so. If it leaves behind an oil residue on your hand that is a sign of diesel fuel. Make sure the fuel isn't brownish. If you got a hold of some E-85 accidentally it could cause this too.
How did you check for fault codes? Did you use a code reader or scan tool?
Does the engine turn over at a normal speed or does it seem to be cranking faster and more freely now?
Make sure there is no fuel in the area that could ignite, and then let's check for spark. Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.
No spark!!!!! #1 is easy to reach no spark with inline tester ( checked tester on lawn mower plug and it worked)...... I have also changed both the cam and crankshaft position sensors, as I was told these are real common failures... disconnected negative terminal @ battery and replaced 1 at a time and checked to see if it would run.... I thought yesterday that it was fuel related ( run once in morning 20-30 seconds) now it makes sense to me that something heats up and cuts out.....
Plug the crank sensor back in and leave the cam unplugged, crank the engine and see if it starts. It will have a long crank time if it does start, and it will have a low rev limiter of 2,500 RPM.
Have you checked fuses? If you haven't checked them yet go ahead and have a look to make sure none are blown. If fuses are ok we're going to have to do some electrical testing with a voltmeter.
Do you have a voltmeter to do some testing?
Unplug both the cam and crank sensor, turn the key on. Set the meter to 20v DC and ground the black lead. use the red lead to probe each terminal in the cam sensor connector and record the voltages. Let me know what you see.
crank and cam sensors unplugged--- key to run position----blk probe to battery grnd
test with red probe
3 wires tan (or brown) w/ yellow trace 5.0vdc
blk wire (center) 8.3vdc
8.3v on the black/light blue wire would be quite significant, enough to put the engine controller to sleep. Did your voltmeter auto-range there, and possibly went into the millivolt range? You shouldn't see more than a couple hundredths of a volt there.
Yes (sorry) 8.3 mv changed range .008vdc
Excellent! I was worried.
We've got to get to either one of the fuel injectors or the coil connector. Whatever is easiest for you. Unplug one of your choice and find the dark green/orange wire. This will have power for 1-2 seconds when you first turn the key on, and then again while cranking. With the cam and crank sensors plugged back in check to see if it powers up while cranking, and if not then see if it powers up momentarily at key-in.
Sensors plugged back in---- pulled coil primary wire harness---- grn/ orange trace
hard to see quick on-- somewhere 3vdc ( I saw the 3 briefly)--- cranking was up to 3 vdc-- but seemed to drop down as low as 2.6-2.8 vdc
We should have seen battery voltage there - the meter didn't do something odd to us again did it?
It sounds like the battery is probably dropping pretty low on us at this point then.
Do you have a test light? Attach the alligator clip to battery positive and use the probe end to probe each of the other two wires in the coil connector. Crank the engine and watch for the test light to flash as it cranks.
Does your regular test light work ok if you connect it to the battery posts?
Recheck the coil drivers with the test light again and see if they flash while cranking, see if there is battery voltage on the dark green/orange wire at the coil also.
just checked it all------- have 11.85 vdc at center terminal when initial key to run---- drops to 6-8 vdc while cranking
still have weak but definate pulse from both right & left sides of connector while cranking ( good test light -alligator clip to positive of battery)