The horn switch simply supplies a ground for the horn relay, so I think you are checking the wrong wire.......there shouldn't be any voltage.
Have you tested your fuses and the horn itself?
Ok, never takes things for granted when it comes to electrical issues.....but yes it would be odd to have both horns go at the same time.
Disconnect wire connector at horn and connect one lead of a test lamp to the wire connector and the other lead to a good body ground. . Depress the horn switch. If test light illuminates, the horn is ungrounded or faulty. Grounding can be verified by making a temporary jumper wire connection between horn bracket (scratch through paint) and negative battery terminal. If horn fails to sound with jumper intact, horn reconnected, and horn button or rim depressed, the horn is defective. If test light does illuminate, go to next step. Check for a defective horn relay by substituting a known-good horn relay in the circuit. If the lamp illuminates when depressing the horn switch, the original relay is defective. If the lamp fails to illuminate with a known-good relay, unplug that relay and connect a jumper wire from the battery terminal to the horn terminal on the relay terminal board. . If the lamp, which is connected in place of the horns, fails to illuminate, inspect for an open circuit between the horn fuse and horn terminal on the relay terminal board and the horn terminals. Should the lamp illuminate, a defective horn switch or an open circuit in the wiring between the relay terminal and horn switch is at fault.
When I get to the car again I'll try those things out. Don't worry about it taking awhile for me to get back to you. I'm not taking the info and running. It just takes me some time sometimes to try things out and get back to you guys. It's about 20 degrees right now so I'll be working on it in the next few days. Thanks for the info. And since I'm not an auto technician, by test lamp, can it be just a simple electrical circuit tester that I use in my house. I also have an inductive tester. I can try that also.
Ok, here is a circuit diagram for the horn. The horn button is simply suppplying a ground to operate the relay so you won't find any voltage on that wire.
There is a horn relay under the drivers side of the dash and you should be able to hear it click when you push the horn button......you might need to listen carefully.
There are two wires going to each horn. One is the grn/red wire shown in the schematic. The other is black. Metering across those two contacts on the wiring harness after detaching it from one of the horns, I don't get any voltage while pressing the horn button with either the ignition on or off. I also went from each side of the wiring harness to ground and same deal. No voltage.
I listened for a relay under the dash in almost absolute silence and didn't hear anything...at all. I listened very intently and I do know what a relay sounds like (just so you know I'm not a total novice to this stuff. lol) Anyway, I also tested for voltage at the fuse block. I removed the fuse in position 6 (20amp) and metered both sides to ground. One side did show 12v (OK 11.89). The other...nothing. Could it be the relay? Or something else? I can't see up in the dash because Chrysler put this nice sound shield under the dash. Pro's - queiter. Con's - Can't easily access that area.
If the relay clicks......the horn should actually work since you say the fuse is good.
If the relay clicks doing this......but doesn't click when you use the buttons then the problem is in the switches or steering wheel area.
If the relay doesn't click, then there might be a wiring issue.
We don't see too many relay failures simply because the horn isn't used that often to wear the relay out......but it's still a possibility.
Um. Is someone going to get back with me on this issue?
Sorry for the delay, I was out of town unexpectedly.
So, it appears you might have a clockspring issue. The way I would test it, is to ground the black/red wire at the wheel and see if it works. If it doesn't work, then I would ground the same wire on the opposite side of the clockspring. If it then works, then the clockspring would be at fault.
Thank you for your response. I hope ur out-of-town trip was pleasant. Sometimes they are not.
How do I check to the other side of the clockspring with the steering wheel on? is there a particular color wire I need to search for? As stated above, I grounded the copper plate the switch is held on by to ground, pressed the horn button, and the horn sounded. That would tell me that everything is OK from the horns to the bracket of the switch. Only thing left would be the clockspring or after that to ground. Do I have that right? Thanks again for your help.
Then how will you get paid for the help you provided me?
Just Answer works on the honor system whereby you ask questions and I supply answers in the hopes that you find my answers worthy of hitting the ACCEPT button so I get credit for my time.
We have had numerous replies back and forth and I have supplied you with quality answers, so far, as well as a wiring diagram for the circuit.
Up till now, nothing I have provided you has caused you to appreciate the replies enough to hit the accept button, so I have chosen to opt out of this particular question.
Sorry for the poor quality photo but can you tell which one I have from the pic. It doesn't look exactly like the one you gave me info on.
BTW. I'm clicking on Accept Answer because you have patiently waited and my schedule is not your fault. It has taken me WAY too long to get this done. I hope you stay with me on this issue because I know I'm going to need more help.