i believe there was 0 volts at "little wire" on solenoid with everything connected and key in start - but ran those test last weekend in the dark in the pouring rain!
will double check
thanks for ign switch cav pinouts and diagram!
will run other tests you recommend in next 30 min or so and advise results
BACK LIKE A BAD DISEASE
little wire @ solenoid:
jumper to solenoid, measure to batt ground with everything connected,swith in start
.7 millivolts in park, ign switch OFF
1.5 millivolts in park, ign switch RUN
3.7 millivolts in park, ign switch RUN, foot on brake pedal (brk lites on)
3.5 millivolts in park, ign swith START, foot on brake pedal
no 12v - perhaps my method is faulty but don't believe so
fuse #1 under hood
- continuity okay, 15ohm resistance
pin 6 on ign switch
.2 volts key in OFF position
12 volts key in START position
pin "84" at asd relay
- cannot find or understand properly your reference to pin 84
- diagram you included mentions a "B4" (perhaps your eyes are as bad as mine)
- on relay itself i only have pins as follows
_ _ _
85 87a 87
are there different terminal numbers in the cavity itself?
diagram below is from doc i have - showing start relay, but all relays in pdm of this type are identical for horn, fuel pump, asd, start, a/c compressor & hs fan .... right?
cannot identify which of 30, 86, 85, 87a, and 87 i should test as "84" ... sorry
thanks very much for your kind consideration
ok will run test & advise
making the following assumptions
all tests in this "round" to be performed on ASD relay cavity as follows
connect voltmeter POS to cavity pin 4 .... connect voltmeter NEG to battery neg
- read 12v in start
connect voltmeter POS to cavity pin 5 .... connect voltmeter NEG to battery neg
perhaps you mean measure across pins 4 and 5 ?
connect voltmeter POS to cavity pin 1 .... connect voltmeter NEG to battery neg
connect ohmmeter POS to cavity pin 2 .... connect voltmeter NEG to battery neg
- read continuity in start
will standby for 5 min in case you want to (HIT ME WITH BRICK) get me to run tests differently than above
i regret to inform you that i cannot perform your last requested tests as the ignition key will no longer rotate the cylinder
this is something that my wife informs me has been happening for the last couple weeks and she just remembered - now that it's doing it to me.
it's apparently the interlock linkage that will not allow cylinder to rotate unless in park/neutral (and foot on brake?)
i know this is a new issue for you but just wondering if you know of any tricks to address this short of using a drill, steering wheel removal etc.
tried turning wheel from lock to lock, banding on wheel with palms of hands, and tapping column (gently) in general area of bottom of ign cylinder - no luck, now i can't even tow the darn thing!
frustrated in maryland ..... grrrrrr!
no info about releasing brake interlock in her owners manual - just mentions that there is one
you should know that i can see the little yellow "tang" move when i try to move the shifter, but the shifter will not move out of park. so the cable between shifter and column appears to be working - must be the "brake pedal pressed" system causing this problem
would be grateful to at least know how to unlock the brake interlock it so i can tow the darn thing over to the dealer
i tried pressing the clip and sliding the cable out of the ign cyl before i came back in and it would not come out - seemed to be requiring switch cylinder to rotate to some position to release, but perhaps that's because it's jammed at the shifter end of the cable - i'll have a look
IS THERE NO BRAKE PEDAL INTERLOCK INVOLVED IN THIS SYSTEM - WIFE STATES THAT SHE DOES NOT NEED TO PRESS BRAKE PEDAL TO OPERATE IGN SWITCH - surprising, but one never knows ...
If I have help you,please push the accept button when were done.
Thank you for choosing just answer