Hello and welcome to Just Answer!
Could you pull the starter relay out and take a piece of wire and jump terminal 30 to 87 in the terminals where the relay came out of and see if the starter cranks the engine over.
You don't need the key on for this. Let me know, thanks!
Have you tried to tilt the steering wheel to see if it will start/crank while tilting?
With the starter relay removed could you test for power in terminal 86 and 85 when you have someone hold the key in the start(crank) position. One of them should have power, it can be either one as long as one has power in the crank position. Let me know. Thanks!
Have you tried to swap the relay with another one?
The only thing left is the relay control #86 or the relay itself. Let me know
I will try and work with you until this is resolved!
Do you have a scan tool?
There is a simple way to test the prndl switch. All you have to do is unplug the switch on the left side of the trans and ground the yellow/dark blue wire and if the switch was the problem it will start.
It's getting late here too. I will check a few things and get back to you tomorrow.
Before replacing the PCM we need to verify we have good power and grounds to it.
I usually use a sealed beam headlight to check this, that way it will tell if we have a bad circuit by load testing it. If you don't have one just use a test light for now.
Here are the wires you need to check. Use a paper clip to go inside the terminals so you don't spread them with your light probe!
1-Turn the key on and test the pink/gray wire C1 connector on PCM which should be a gray/black connector. The wire is in terminal 20. There should be power.
2-have someone hold the key in the start position while you test terminal #38 yellow wire in the same connector. It should have power in the crank position.
3-Now move to the C2 connector(gray). Test terminal #46 orange/red wire. It should have battery power at all times.
4-Now we need to check the grounds. Hook your light lead to the positive battery post and probe terminal #10 black/brown wire in the C1 connector. The light should come on.
Then move to the C2 connector and test terminal 50 black/dark green wire. the light should come on.
Let me know how this goes! Thanks!
That's great that you had one! Test lights can't load test the circuits and I have had a few cases where I replaced good parts because the test light and voltmeter aren't loading the circuit.
Looks like you are going to need a PCM.
It would be a good idea to try and access the PCM with a scan tool if you had one. I would like to know if the PCM has a no response or wether you can communicate with it. Let me know! Thanks