Chrysler Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
As far as we know, no stop leak has ever been added to the vehicle, at least since we have had it. The previous owner kept every record for this vehicle, up to and including tire rotations/changes and oil changes and was a car owner that did things by the book and only through the dealer garage. The previous owner had replaced the original radiator about 1 year before we bought it. I think they may have had issues with the vehicle overheating also.
I've read something about the catalytic converter possibly being bad, causing excessive back pressure that could increase the temp of the engine however, seems this would happen all the time, and not just in hot weather. However, this car is tested every year for emissions, and passes, so it's probably not that.
I think we are going to have the flusing done in the next few days, as it is the last "hardware" item (Im a computer geek) that needs to be addressed. If it continues, then it has to be a sensor, a relay or a switch is not working correctly, thus something hardware wise isn't working the way its suppose to. And it would seem the check engine light would come on and I know it does work, because the check engine light never comes on with this. (And the check engine light does work, as the timing belt broke on the "new" engine because of the water pump leaking, which was a new timing belt when the engine was dropped in. And it certainly came on then!)
I'll let ya know. Thanks.
My other half has one question about this. He wants to take the lower hose off to see if there is sediment accumulated there, and at the exit of the radiator. Would this be a good sign of the problem you state?
But could I ask one additional question. Why isn't the check engine light or temperature light coming on when this happens? (Just trying to cover all bases.)
You possibly may see something if you take off the hose but I won't promise it. It depends on how much buildup there is. The small diameter of the radiator hose won't give you very much of a look at the part that matters, the inlets to the cores running up and down the very left side of the radiator.
The check engine light will never come on for an overheating problem. It will come on for things that cause the tailpipe emissions to exceed 1.5 times the amount the amount the car certified for basically, or OBDI things like opens and shorts in electrical components. The overheat light will eventually come on when the engine overheats but you may not be getting hot enough to see if. The temperature light will come on at something like 260 degrees.
The other half says, "sounds good to me"! And he says thanks!
You're welcome, and good luck with your car!
It makes sense. The previous owner replaced the radiator. If there was gunk in the radiator/engine, and it was a severe enough problem, gunk probably got into the block. Replacing the radiator only "bandaided" the issue at the time, and since the radiator could flow again, the problem was temporarily fixed.
However, there was crud still in the block. So over time, as the radiator began to build up gunk again, and with the gunk in the block possibly migrating through the system, the original problem surfaced again, this time with us.
Replacing the engine (this was due to work on the engine to correct damage done by the overheating, in other words replacing the seal and correct a small warp issue, and they put in the crankshaft crooked and then it breaking) only fixed "part" of the problem again, as the problem with the system that acutally cools the water (the radiator) still existed.
This also combined with the fact that the water pump leaked (as was so corroded and ended up corroding the timing belt so bad that it actually rotted a new timing belt when the motor was replaced within a three month time period)and gunk was found in it, reinforces the fact that there is gunk in the system.
Other half is gonna take a look at the bottom of the rad (if there is that much gunk in the system, then there should be some signs of it there as there were signs of sediment in the overflow tank) and I think we are gonna get an aftermarket one. Comparing the price for a rad flush ($70) vs the price of an aftermarket rad ($100-$125 and pretty easily put in ourselves) its gonna be a new radiator.
Unfortunately since he's a truck driver, its gonna be at least a week before he's back home! Will let ya know when we get this done.
Lets hope this is the end of this issue. The car is a good car. It might be older, but you can't beat the fact that its paid for and insurance is low on it! And the fact, who wants to steal an older car, in a town that has high auto theft!
Again thanks for the info.
I agree with the price of a new radiator vs. a flush it makes since to replace it, especially when you'll never get everything out of it with a flush.
And yes, you can't beat the insurance rates on these old cars, or the great fuel mileage. Mine 94 has 238,000 miles on it and running strong!