THIS IS A DIFFERENT EXPERT.
You said " I had tested for current (and I did use a test lamp) and there was constant current at the bottom right terminal only, when the vehicle is running, but never any current at any of the other terminals"
Based on this answer to the other expert's questions, you have just found your problem. As he told you earlier, THERE NEEDS TO BE TWO WIRES live in the connector feeding the combination flasher/DRL Module.
You referred to the BOTTOM RIGHT terminal as being live. Good. That's the feed from the A22 circuit. There also needs to be a feed on the L9 circuit at PIN 1. This enters the junction block on pin 27, connector 2.
Click HERE to download this wiring diagram. The flasher module will not work without this feed to pin 1 of the combination flasher/drl module. Click HERE to download a pinout for this module.
You also said " Doesn't the power come in on perhaps the red wire, then run through the multi-function switch to the Light Blue/White wire or the Light Blue/Yellow wire, if the turn signal wand is pushed? In which case wouldn't I need to jumper a wire between the red wire(if I'm correct) and the Light Blue/White wire or the Light Blue/Yellow wire, to have a turn signal turn on? I didn't want to short anything out, so I didn't test this idea.
This would be a good fast way to burn up your multifunction switch. The multifunction switch does not have current going through it for the lights on this model. It is simply a voltage signal circuit that allows the module to determine what lights to turn on. A small voltage is sent from the module to the switch and the switch pulls that voltage to ground on each terminal depending which contact is closed in it.
Please recheck and locate the cause for no power to pin 1. Please let me know if you require further assistance.
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I have not provided a picture of the multifunction switch. I provided a picture of the turnsignal/drl relay.
You said " you asked me to check for current at #1 and #6 of the junction box. -I find there is no current at #1 and constant current at #6, when the vehicle is running. "
AGAIN... YOU MUST HAVE A FEED AT #1 .... STOP AND FIND OUT WHY THERE IS NO POWER THERE. YOU HAVE FOUND YOUR PROBLEM. Get with it, ok... 2 EXPERTS HAVE TOLD YOU THIS.... WHAT FURTHER INFO DO YOU REQUIRE? If you are not going to follow our instructions how do you expect to fix this problem?
God help me man, you are a hard one to help....
Ok, did you open the diagrams I sent you ?
You need to check to see if power is getting to the connection for the fuse box. If not , trace it back. If power is getting to the fusebox, there is a problem in the fuse box. This is a common problem with Chrysler products. I have replaced MANY MANY fuseboxes.
Do you need help interpreting the wiring diagram? Let me know and I'll try to help.
Sorry for the delay in my reply. I tried several times to reply when I was online yesterday but site problems prevented my getting back to you.
I sent you an image of the JUNCTION BLOCK earlier. Click HERE to view it again. Please note the location of C2 in the top right corner of the schematic. You need to go to this connection and see if power is present on the black/white wire that comes into cavity 27 of this connector.
If power IS NOT present there, then there is a problem in the wiring from the power distribution centre (PDC) , the connection at the PDC, or the PDC itself. Yes, this circuit is fed by the underhood "Power Distribution Center" and its fuse #14.
Let me know how you make out, thanks.
My previous mesage said:
I sent you an image of the JUNCTION BLOCK earlier. Click HERE to view it again. Please note the location of C2 in the top right corner of the schematic.
I sent you the wrong link in that message. That was the schematic. I meant to send you this one. Click HERE
So, to clarify... I want you to gently insert a small pin into the back of the connection at pin 27 on C2 at the underdash JUNCTION BLOCK to allow you to connect a testlight to see of the feed from the UNDERHOOD FUSE AND RELAY CENTRE (called a PDC) Fuse 14 is getting to this point. If you're testing it with a voltmeter, make sure the flasher/drl relay is installed when you are doing this.
Click HERE to download the image of the PDC.
Your best plan of attack is to CHECK FUSE 14 and then follow my last post. Have you checked to see if power is reaching pin 27 at connector C2 ON THE UNDERDASH JUNCTION BLOCK (where the relay is located)? If there is a problem in the harness there will be no power there and we'll have to start backtracking. If there is power there, there is a problem in the JUNCTION BLOCK and there is no need to start taking things apart under the hood.
I want you to gently insert a small pin into the back of the connection at pin 27 on C2 at the underdash JUNCTION BLOCK to allow you to connect a testlight to see of the feed from the UNDERHOOD FUSE AND RELAY CENTRE (called a PDC) Fuse 14 is getting to this point. If you're testing it with a voltmeter, make sure the flasher/drl relay is installed when you are doing this.
Let me know if you have further questions on this.
If you have already read my last message go back and read it again... I have edited the first few lines of that message. Thanks.
Let me know how you make out.
I am curious to hear how you have made out with testing for the cause of no feed to pin one of the relay.
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