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EricFromCT
EricFromCT, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 3418
Experience:  Chevrolet Technician
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2002 S10, deep pan trying to change the trans fluid. Got pan

Customer Question

2002 S10, deep pan trying to change the trans fluid. Got pan off, got filter out. Old filter has no rubber cap on it new one does, you tube video says leave cap off new one. Correct? I bought a doorman pan with a drain plug, never doing this again like this on the ground.
Submitted: 22 days ago.
Category: Chevy
Expert:  EricFromCT replied 22 days ago.

Hi. Are you sure it is a rubber cap on the new filter? Or is it a seal that goes around where the filter goes into the transmission?

Customer: replied 22 days ago.
What I think is there is a seal that stayed in the trans and the new filter has a new seal. And I don't want to chance digging the old one out to change it.
Expert:  EricFromCT replied 22 days ago.

Yes. the seal commonly sticks in the trans. I always prefer to remove it and use the new one. The seal gets worn and sometimes the filter does not feel tight in there. And if the filter drops out the trans will not move. I usually us a pair of needle nose pliers and pull out the seal.

Customer: replied 22 days ago.
I'll try. Is there a right way and wrong way to put the new seal in? It had like a ridge on it
Expert:  EricFromCT replied 22 days ago.

You need to note the orientation of the seal that you remove. And make sure the new one is on the filter the correct way. It goes on the filter then push up with even force and it will go in. It is not a super tight fit and you can just push it in.

Customer: replied 22 days ago.
Yeah gave up the old one wouldn't come out and I decided to leave it. OK, got the pan almost back on that deep pan is a bitch on the ground on gravel in an S10. Wow. OK, so I was able to get the 10mm headed bolt out that's right under the cable linkage, but there is no way to start that bolt with the linkage in place so I'm assuming I have to disconnect the leakage? If so, how do I do this?
Expert:  EricFromCT replied 22 days ago.

You should be able to start it with a 1/4 swivel 10mm. But if you can not remove the linkage by disconnecting the ball stud then there is a clip to pull out. Then depress the tangs and remove the cable from the bracket.

Customer: replied 22 days ago.
Started it with mini long nose pliers then tightened with 10mm wrench until I could get the ratchet end on. What's torque specs on those pan bolts, obviously can't torque the one under the linkage, 10mm socket won't fit between pan and linkage even 1/4 inch drive.
Customer: replied 22 days ago.
Almost ran myself over, forgot to chok wheels, pulled on linkage to get pan in truck groaned rolled back six inches. Another foot and a half and it would have killed me. Choked wheels but never happened again.
Customer: replied 22 days ago.
Yeah, it's not up in the air because of the damn pan I got the great idea to do it on the gravel on all four wheels because I knew it would make a mess. Now it has a drain it would be safe to do it in the garage in the future jacked up to a reasonable height
Customer: replied 22 days ago.
Found it 9 ft. pounds.
Customer: replied 22 days ago.
I put five quarts of valvoline maxlife in it. I'll check the level tomorrow. Still have the transfer case, the front and rear differentials, the brake fluid and checking the brakes. Every filter and fluid on the truck needed to be replaced. Maxlife is a bargain $17 and change for a gallon at Walmart full synthetic and Dexron VI. It even meets Mercon. Trans actually looks great, just a little paste on the magnet, less than my Honda after 12,000 miles and no metal flake at all. I'll say one thing for this thing, surface rust on the frame and suspension (superficial) but every light works, even the dash lights, dome light, etc. Yellow check engine light he said it was one of the sensors. I might run codes, runs good and we don't have emissions. Afraid of what I'll find on the brake and suspension check brake fluid looks horrible. I flush my cars every 2 years. This one has probably never been done. I bet the rear diff looks horrible too. Big fan of Mobil 1 diff oil, meets limited slip right out of the bottle. 308,000 on my subaru diffs with it every 30,000. Gears look brand new. Almost no paste at all after first 30,000.
Customer: replied 22 days ago.
Oh, I did research dexron VI is a no go in the transfer case so I actually bought the GM spec transfer case fluid.
Expert:  EricFromCT replied 21 days ago.

Sounds like you have everything under control. Did you get the s-10 up and driving?

Customer: replied 21 days ago.
Nope, changed the front diff oil the transfer case fluid. Now stuck at the rear diff, the bolts are too rusty can't fit a socket on then Off to buy bolt extractor sockets. Got a new cover too. You happen to know the size of those differential cover bolts on that limited slip 8.5 inch GM 10 bolt? Need to buy new bolts. Going to drain the antifreeze too. But the oil is changed, the trans and filter, the third door handle fixed. The belt is changed, the thermostat is changed (leaking), the air filter and the battery. Needs a idler arm, brake fluid change, maybe brakes (we'll see) diff cover and bolts, rear fluid. Then alignment. Got one new tire because one tire is nearly new, two others are pretty equally worn and one is shot. Got the same brand and tread tire to match the other three good ones. Luckily the one was almost new also. Got two rear shocks, one is seeping. Going to have to soak them with penetrating oil to get them loose. Quite the project, but the 4.3 and trans seem to be in really good shape, the 4 wd works, all the lights work even the dash lights. It's definitely worth $1000, none of the rust seems fatal, just scale. Good scrape and a spray bottle of 30 weight oil will do wonders ha ha. Liberal use of truck bed liner on bottom third of the body, bumpers, bed, etc. Actually looks better than way than the original color. Pretty good first truck for 17 year old. Only 128,000 miles.
Expert:  EricFromCT replied 21 days ago.

It sounds like a decent ride. I do not know the thread pitch of the bolts. You will have to get one out and compare the threads. Or if you call a dealer, even if they cannot get the bolts anymore, their listing should say the thread size.

Customer: replied 21 days ago.
Thanks!
Expert:  EricFromCT replied 19 days ago.

Your welcome. Thank you and please take the time to rate my assistance. Also, after rating the question will remain open for any follow-ups.

Customer: replied 19 days ago.
OK will rate, ended up having to use craftsman bolt extractors and vice grips to get each bolt out. Took about 4 hours. Then I used hardware store bolts and washers and a little locktite and the new cover.
Expert:  EricFromCT replied 19 days ago.

Wow. Those suckers must have been really rusty. At least its done now I guess.

Customer: replied 19 days ago.
I've never seen anything like it. The head of every bolt was rusted enough that no regular socket would fit. So I had to use the rounded off bolt tools and vice grips. The last one wouldn't come so I beat a socket on the head of the bolt with a dead blow hammer. I was very lucky the threads were OK so none of them broke off.
Expert:  EricFromCT replied 19 days ago.

Yeah. Good thing threads were good.

Customer: replied 19 days ago.
This is after I used PB Blaster and let it soak overnight. I think the truck sat for a few years in long grass. That's all I can figure since the top half was great and the interior was great but most of the bottom has light surface rust and scaling. But the bed is great and so is the floor pan, that's why I think it was just where the wet grass touched that it rusted so much. None of it is structural but it's a PITA. One of the upper control arms has a hole in the thin part of the metal, if it won't pass inspection, they are only about $40 shipped including hardwhere. Probably fun to change though ha ha. Might be more questions.
Expert:  EricFromCT replied 19 days ago.

Ok.

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